here is the deal.... car was boosted before.... everything worked fine...
pulled the motor to build it... its in. ready to go, relocated the battery to front floor board.

starter doesn't turn over when i turn the key, starter turns when i jump it via starter power to starter signal....

checked all the fuses, jumped the clutch switch

any ideas?

 

If it's not clicking or anything when you turn the key, assuming your power wire is hooked to the proper location, your signal wire simply isn't getting a signal. Make sure it's attached properly to the solenoid.

Does the rest of the car come to life when you turn the key? Are you sure all your ground wires are properly connected?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it's not clicking or anything when you turn the key, assuming your power wire is hooked to the proper location, your signal wire simply isn't getting a signal. Make sure it's attached properly to the solenoid.

Does the rest of the car come to life when you turn the key? Are you sure all your ground wires are properly connected?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i've taken the starter signal wire off and on over and over, its connected properly

and yes the rest of the car comes to life, fuel pump primes, all lights come on in the dash, its a brand new optima battery... and yes all grounds are connected properly(i don't have the valve cover ground but i didn't before and it started fine all the time)

can't be the ground if its starting when i jump the starter and it works

 

you also might have to down the wire gauge ie. 12 ga. because of the length (for the solenoid). If that's no the problem it would help anyways. You might also have to do the same for the battery cables. get a test light and check for voltage at the stater when the key is turned to start.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95dxsir2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you also might have to down the wire gauge ie. 12 ga. because of the length (for the solenoid). If that's no the problem it would help anyways. You might also have to do the same for the battery cables. get a test light and check for voltage at the stater when the key is turned to start. </TD></TR></TABLE>

battery cables are 1 gauge.... used the stock wires for altenator and starter wire that goes to fuse box

and if the starter signal wire was getting voltage it would start ! i need to get a test light though!

 

yes.
you got a cheapy multimeter?

 

Fudge the test light invest in a multimeter, It will help you in the long run it sounds like your grounding out. You need to go over all your wiring again get a multimeter and test wires at different locations to find where power is being lost. As archiditcus asked do das and cluster lights illuminate when the key is turned to the on position?! Check your engin and trans to Chassis ground cables over again and assure they are all on tight and directly touching a clean metal surface no rust or dirt in the way.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tannerLSt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
jumped the clutch switch
any ideas? </TD></TR></TABLE>
when you jumped the switch, was the connection good? was it jumped when it was boosted?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnny Ricer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Fudge the test light invest in a multimeter, It will help you in the long run it sounds like your grounding out. You need to go over all your wiring again get a multimeter and test wires at different locations to find where power is being lost. As archiditcus asked do das and cluster lights illuminate when the key is turned to the on position?! Check your engin and trans to Chassis ground cables over again and assure they are all on tight and directly touching a clean metal surface no rust or dirt in the way.</TD></TR></TABLE>
my buddy has a multimeter... i'll have to get him to come by... yes clutster lights illuminate.....

where i grounded the battery i sanded off the paint , and i've checked grounds (again i don't have the valve cover ground, but i didn't before either...)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdotjones &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
when you jumped the switch, was the connection good? was it jumped when it was boosted?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'm not sure if it was good or not, thought the switch might be bad, so i jumped it by putting two wires into the connectors to make the car think the clutch was in, and tried to start it....

what the hell do you mean was it jumped when it was boosted, its still boosted. and no it wasn't jumped before everything worked fine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tannerLSt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i'm not sure if it was good or not, thought the switch might be bad, so i jumped it by putting two wires into the connectors to make the car think the clutch was in, and tried to start it....

what the hell do you mean was it jumped when it was boosted, its still boosted. and no it wasn't jumped before everything worked fine</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tannerLSt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here is the deal.... car was boosted before.... everything worked fine...
</TD></TR></TABLE> by saying before, it sounds like you went a different route other than boosted, n/a.......but any way, i'm willing to bet that its the connection when you tried to bypass the clutch switch..... with wires did you tap into? my clutch switch is bypassed so i can kinda tell which wires should be tapped....


Modified by pdotjones at 7:00 PM 1/16/2008

 

just added the valve cover ground and still nothing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdotjones &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i'm willing to bet that its the connection when you tried to bypass the clutch switch..... with wires did you tap into? my clutch switch is bypassed so i can kinda tell which wires should be tapped....


Modified by pdotjones at 7:00 PM 1/16/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdotjones &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
by saying before, it sounds like you went a different route other than boosted, n/a.......but any way, i'm willing to bet that its the connection when you tried to bypass the clutch switch..... with wires did you tap into? my clutch switch is bypassed so i can kinda tell which wires should be tapped....


Modified by pdotjones at 7:00 PM 1/16/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

ya i pulled the motor to build it, and upgraded every part of my turbo set up...
the clutch switch is not bypassed anymore, since bypassing it didn't work for starting it... and there is only two wires to connect when jumping it..

 

to answer your question, i pulled the connector off the clutch switch, and ran a wire between the ports on the connector like you would do your ecu when checking the codes

 

dude, it's not hard at all to check a no crank/no start. So fuc*in listen.
where' the test light/multi-meter? it's so much more easier with a test light. i don't have the wiring diagram in front of me, but i'm sure it goes something like this.

low amp 12 volt feed from ignition switch to clutch switch, feed goes from switch to starter.

When i swapped my d15 AT to b16 MT, i had to exchange brake and clutch pedals.
there we 2 switches on the ctlutch pedal assembly, but i didn't care about them (no use).
Sooo. there might also be another clutch switch (disengeged) in the circuit.

All you have to check is the power feed, there's no ground, the starter grounds itself

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95dxsir2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude, it's not hard at all to check a no crank/no start. So fuc*in listen.
where' the test light/multi-meter? it's so much more easier with a test light. i don't have the wiring diagram in front of me, but i'm sure it goes something like this.

low amp 12 volt feed from ignition switch to clutch switch, feed goes from switch to starter.

When i swapped my d15 AT to b16 MT, i had to exchange brake and clutch pedals.
there we 2 switches on the ctlutch pedal assembly, but i didn't care about them (no use).
Sooo. there might also be another clutch switch (disengeged) in the circuit.

All you have to check is the power feed, there's no ground, the starter grounds itself

</TD></TR></TABLE>

You are wrong testing with a test light is not better than using a mutimeter, A test light only shows that there is in fact voltage flowing through a line. With his problem he could be getting voltage through the line causing your said light to illuminate. But the eletrical curren may be to weak to do anything do to a parasitic draw or bad connection. Using a multimeter is basically the only way to go on newer cars when diagnosing an electrical problem.
When there are two switches on a clutch pedal it doesnt mean they both activate starting ability. The secondary switch you had was because the pedal assembly most likely came from a vehicle equipped with cruise control. The second switch is only to deactivate cruise when the clutch is engaged.
He also stated all grounds were checked already and were properly attached.
OP:
curious to here what the news is has anything been fixed or are you still having the current problem?

 

yes its fixed guys, it was my ignition switch... replaced and she's starting fine