ok i build a ls vtec it turned on fine sounds great but smoking like crazy we used the golden eagle ls vtec kit rebuilt the bottom end type r oil pump + water pump new rings and valvestem seals now i heard the golden eagle headgasket is not that good and also i think i ordered the wrong arp headstuds they told me i have the ones for a b20 vtec with b16 head could that be the problem wrong headstuds?

 

common guys sum1 help me please i wanna get my car running

 

It doesnt matter which head you have, you need to get the head studs for a b20\ls with Vtec head, I believe for arp it is the same product number as the head studs for a GSR motor. As far as the headgasket goes ive never used the golden eagle one, i just bought one from cometic.

 

yea i believe u want the studs for a GSR as stated above. I have also heard that the golden eagle hg is bad.

 

the studs i have said b20/ls but alot of people tell me they only for b20 cuz the gsr/type r studs have a diffrent number i think its ARP part number 208-4303 and the 1 i have is 208-4302 as far as the hg goes im geting a new 1 i heard bad rep on the eagle 1 i just wanna get the right ones now if any 1 knows the part number it would be alot of help the motor is b18a1 with a b16 head

 

woops the head studs i have r #208-4306 not the 4302

 

any 1 have more ideas on wat it could be theres oil in the 1 and 3rd cylinder i wanna know if it could be the studs i have if wrong studs give that kind of oil leak

 

the head studs you need are LS-VTEC or B20-VTEC 11mm 208-4303 which are the same for a Gsr. With wrong head studs id put all my money on that being the reason for the oil in the cylinders.

 

definitly need gsr studs and get an oem replacement gasket for the ls block and also did your block have the oil orphice(check spelling) removed. needs to be out. also was the head compression checked before using, how about new piston rings, this is why most people hate ls/vtecs. they never change the rings before assembly and its always there own fault

 

and what is the torque specs u used for the head studs, well u used the wrong ones anyway.but what did u torque them to?

 

oh ****, i see u are in philly, i have built 2 really strong ls/vtec engines that ran 14.26 and 14.40 at atco. i am in philly too. if u need help message me and i can give u a hand or rebuild the whole thing, i charge 300 to build a ls/vtec, but it will run correctly. u have to supply the parts

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted92hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">definitly need gsr studs and get an oem replacement gasket for the ls block and also did your block have the oil orphice(check spelling) removed. needs to be out. also was the head compression checked before using, how about new piston rings, this is why most people hate ls/vtecs. they never change the rings before assembly and its always there own fault</TD></TR></TABLE>

What oil oriphace are you speaking of?

 

cant remember if ls block has it but the one behind the center of the rear middle head stud. its been a few months since ive done this swap but i know vtec blocks run the orphice in the head. and when my buddy left his in on his mini me the oil pressure was all screwy

 

i thought thats what you were talking about, its different than a mini me swap, you need to leave it in.

 

get the gsr studs, cometic gasket and leave the Orifice in, it must be installed in the block. did you install the plug in the head? also do not over torque the head when installing it or you run the risk of warping it.

 

did you break in and seal the rings?? brand new rings take alot to break in and it has to be done within the first 20 miles.

 

why in the hell would u run 2 oil orphices, so u get no oil pressure, my car never smoked and i took mine out the block and left it in the head, maybe thats why everyone thinks ls/vtecs are unreliable. like i said i ran my car over a year and seriously every friday would take it to the track and run 20-25 times a night then street race every friday and saturday night and on sunday, bracket race in 2 classes. dont know maybe me and the other dude i built a motor for are riding on luck but his car has been running strong since september of 06

 

hes right, piston rings are most important wich alot of people throwing a motor together dont change due to laziness

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted92hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hes right, piston rings are most important wich alot of people throwing a motor together dont change due to laziness</TD></TR></TABLE>
sooo we still havnt figured out if he broke in the rings correctly or no... or if he even did it at all. when there is oil like hes talking about its usually a ring that hasnt taken seat or sealed yet.

 

pretty much, he posted and then disappeared, oh well. maybe ill see smoky being we are from the same city

 

IS THE MOTOR COMPLETLY REBUILT WITH NEW PISTON RINGS CAUSE IF SO IT MIGHT BE THE RINGS SETTING IN MINE DID IT FOR A FEW DAYS THEN RAN LIKE A CHAMP

 

new rings dont smoke, it was probably oil and shi* burning off your piston tops. then it went away. ive never seen a completely rebuilt engine smoke like he is saying unless it wasnt built rite,

 

when i rebuilt my JDM B16 and put p30 pistons in it w/ new rings i had to break them in cause it smoked like a chimney until the compression and oil seal ring got hot and expanded. it takes a good 20-25 times of revving to4k and letting it compression down before it stops smoking noticably then you have to get on it some and get it good and hot then compression down some more. takes a good 2 hours to do it right.

 

lol my bad yo just been busy ok when we did the motor these r all the new parts oil pump water pump piston rings main bearings rod bearings and valvestem seals the guy that built it is good at it hes done over 300 motors and all been fine now i just found that theres oil in my intake manifold so a friend told me to replace the pcv and everything was torqued to specs like i said he knows wat hes doing i just havent taken the car to him cuz i just moved n dont wanna ride down 95 looking like a bbq pit i toped of the pcv n it cleared up a bit imma run for a cpl hrs n see wus up

 

Yo know what you mean i have a b18 b bottom and i bought gsr headstuds but everyone doesn't know that the b block holds most of the lenght of the headstuds so when u mount the head on the studs the studs are tooo short and you'll get like 2 turns with the nuts so the stud has to be longer i bought the golden eagel ls vtec kit for 180.00$ which included the head gasket dowels and oil pressure plate and steel braid:

1st off they sent me a gsr gasket which was wrong
2nd off i didnt know i had to mill the head for the dowels
3rd i ordered the gsr mainstud kit from GOLDEN EAGLE (http://shopping.lightningmotorsports...1&cat=0&page=1)

So right now i just trying to find the right headstuds because everyone says gsr head studs but from experience they don't know what there talking about?????