Accord keeps on dying, and is now dead
I have a 97 Accord Lx 4 dr manual. A few months ago, I had instances where the car would just turn over randomly, and after I restarted, it would be fine or if I was cruising on a highway, I could turn it back on after I restart the car while in neutral traveling 70. Last month, I had instances where the car would just die while driving. I turned off my subwoofer, and the problem stopped. Now, my car dies while I drive and it takes closer to 3-5 minutes each time it stalls. However, today, the car died and wouldn't start up again, and I had to walk home. The batteries are 3 months new, it is grounded. The oil is fine.
When it stalls, the car:
- loses power to the power windows, signals,
- there is no check engine light, no other lights on the dash
- The engine does not turn over until few minutes after
- The engine dashboard lights come on sometimes after multiple tries, but is not required for the car to start up again.
I read about how it might be the electronic control for the ignition system, but how do i check up on the issue cheaply to identify the real problem?
Thanks for all your help
When it stalls, the car:
- loses power to the power windows, signals,
- there is no check engine light, no other lights on the dash
- The engine does not turn over until few minutes after
- The engine dashboard lights come on sometimes after multiple tries, but is not required for the car to start up again.
I read about how it might be the electronic control for the ignition system, but how do i check up on the issue cheaply to identify the real problem?
Thanks for all your help
# things come in to mind. Loos battery teminal, dead battery or alternator bad!. Do a search and read similars problems on the subject. Good luck.
"I turned off my subwoofer, and the problem stopped."
is it possible that your sub is drawing too much power? I know you said the battery is new, but take it and get it tested anyway. If your alternator is overworked from the system in your car then it is possible that its not charging your battery all the way. You might want to consider upgrading to a more powerful alternator if that's the case.
is it possible that your sub is drawing too much power? I know you said the battery is new, but take it and get it tested anyway. If your alternator is overworked from the system in your car then it is possible that its not charging your battery all the way. You might want to consider upgrading to a more powerful alternator if that's the case.
I disconnected the power to the amp. It is not, i repeat, not the battery. The battery terminals being loose is not the case also, because the reasons for the car randomly shutting down has no bearing on loose battery terminals
I've isolated it down to the following:
alternator
ignition control module- change ignighter in the distributor
ignition switch- some 97 accords had recalls issued
starter
What kind of tests can I use to figure out if one or more than one of the aforementioned list is not working properly?
If I go to Autozone, would I be able to run specific tests on those parts, and if so, what kind of tests?
I've isolated it down to the following:
alternator
ignition control module- change ignighter in the distributor
ignition switch- some 97 accords had recalls issued
starter
What kind of tests can I use to figure out if one or more than one of the aforementioned list is not working properly?
If I go to Autozone, would I be able to run specific tests on those parts, and if so, what kind of tests?
take the alternator somewhere to get tested. most car parts stores have a bench tester they can use. since the car is not running, you're going to have to take it out, not a big deal, they're pretty easy. if it turns out it was the alternator then YES, you will most likely need a new battery, because that one was most likely drawn down all the way due to lack of a proper charge, and most batteries don't recover well from that. take that back to wherever you bought it from and have them test that as well, if it comes up bad then you have yourself a new battery, if not then at least it will be charged when they're done with it. This is all pending on the alternator being the culprit. If it turns out your alternator is fine then cross it off your list.
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Your symptoms were EXACTLY like what happened to me this week. While driving, the dashboard would cut out and the doors locked and then came back on but the engine wouldn't stop running. Sometimes while I was driving, the it would just shut down. Then finally it cut out where I wasn't able to start it. I narrowed it down to the switch because it wouldn't start with the key, but it started with my remote. It turned out to be my ignition switch. When I was unable to start it, I held the key in the ON position and was able to drive to the mechanic shop.
"just checked on honda.com for the recalls, my ignition switch is fine, it had been fixed by the previous owner. "
This doesn't necessarily mean it's not the ignition switch, not the barrel into which the key fits but the actual electrical switch that lives behind the barrel. Your symptoms sound suspiciously like this is the likely problem.
This doesn't necessarily mean it's not the ignition switch, not the barrel into which the key fits but the actual electrical switch that lives behind the barrel. Your symptoms sound suspiciously like this is the likely problem.
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