So im helping a friend of mine put a new timing belt, tensioner, water pump, oil pump on his B16A crx. (used to be mine)

Here is where we are at-

we broke two out of the three bolts that went into the manifold collector, this is where the four runners go to a flange and then into two runners. The three bolts were rusty and know we have to either re tap them or replace them or the upper manifold. What would you guys do.

Also noticed a little coolant in the oil but no oil in the coolant, what causes this? Is it just a small break in the head gasket, and is their anything that we can seal it with?

We got to have the fun of removing the crank gear but how do you guys get it back on? I noticed it is a tight fit but i was wondering if someone has a trick to make it easier on me and the gear.

Alos i noticed he broke one of the wheel studs, i heard once that the studs must be replaced by replacing the hub, is this true? He aslo has a loud poping sound in his front driver side suspension when he goes over a large bump or pot hole.

We just replaced the rack, tie rods, stuts,and strut bushings, is it possible that it could be the lower ball joint, i did notice it looked like it was in bad shape?

Other then these small issues we should have the car together in one more evening.

Thanx for your help in advance

P.S. The nicer this car get's the more i miss it.

To check it out go to http://www.ramirezracing.blogspot.com

This is a new site, not much there check the 2007 post's and the 2008. Im not sure where the crx is at. Keep in mind she isnt pampered and polished, at least not yet.


Modified by rbpwrd240 at 12:02 PM 1/30/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rbpwrd240 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
To check it out go to http://www.ramirezracing.blogspot.com

This is a new site, not much there check the 2007 post's and the 2008. Im not sure where the crx is at. Keep in mind she isnt pampered and polished, at least not yet.</TD></TR></TABLE>


that part is hilarious. terrible plug for your website.

 

for the stud all you have to do is hit it with a hammer to take it out of the hub.

 

Thanx ill get him to buy the studs.

Sry i know it was a shamless plug.

We worked on her tonight and got the pump out and the new one on. We also got the timing belt and tensioner on, now all thats left is to install the timing belt covers, crank pully, alt belt, and valve cover.

Any info on the Oil, exhaust manifold bolts, or the knocking sound would still be apreciated.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by janz3n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for the stud all you have to do is hit it with a hammer to take it out of the hub.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you actually have to pull the hub out to replace the studs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VRD^don &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you actually have to pull the hub out to replace the studs. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Even that's open for debate. It's been covered numerous times.

 

that popping sound came on my car when i replaced an upper control arm (upper ball joint). Ive re-checked the installation, still makes that noise though...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VRD^don &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you actually have to pull the hub out to replace the studs. </TD></TR></TABLE>

funny cuz i read something on here where a guy just hammered the stud out without taking the hub off.


for the manifold.. if its a stock manifold either drill the holes out and retap them or jjust buy another one. either stock or find a cheap header.
if something breaks its always a good time to upgrade.

 

if anyone has a link to stud replacement on an EF without hub removal.. i would like to see it.. i recently spent about 2 hours trying to figure out a way to get a broken stud out, and ended up taking the whole knuckle to a machine shop to get the hub pressed out.

 

You don't just hammer the stud out. On an EF, I removed the dust plate, popped out the old stud a little and filed down part of the lip, and turned it so it would clear. Then I filed down the lip a little on the new stud and it slid right in place, put the wheel on, tightened it, drove around a little and tightened it again and drove some more until the stud was fully seated.
Here's a write up on that: http://fourthgenhatch.net/wheelstud.html
I think he filed down the lip way too much. Use a bench grinder if you got one, its a hell of a lot cleaner.

About the crank pulley, if you have a pulley with holes(like a d15), stick a 3/8 extension in there, it fits perfectly. If you have a pulley without holes(I know LS, idk about B16), use a strap wrench around it. Stick some rubber around the pulley so the wrench will grab it.
GL

 

interesting process, but I think I'm gonna stick with pressing the hub in and out...

 

being a mechanic for SEVERAL years now and avid honda/acura fan. i recommend that you remove the hub.

its simple, at least for me


you can grind one side of the stud flat

to properly seat the stud you and assistant.

put a spacer (big nut, couple washers, axle nut works great) between the hub and new lugnut

have your buddy beat the back of the stud w/ a hammer and punch or air hammer while you tighten the lugnut

 

Wow guys thanx for all the info. We will hit it again this weekend. Ill let you guys know how everything goes. Ill have him buy new studs for the hub.

Do you guys know where we can get the studs for the manifold? We may just have to do an aftermarket header for him, not sure yet.

My guess is that the head gasket is leaking somewhere a very small amount and its letting coolant into the oil. Also when we removed the valve cover we noticed the sprak plug holes were swiming in OIL!!!! No worries though it is hopefully just the rubber seals which will be new with the new valve cover.

The knocking sound came after a ball joint replacment, thats weird. I noticed the lower ball joint was bad so he has one to replace it but it looks like it will take a serius press to get it out and a new one in; right?

Gotta have the good stuff at dinner hahaha

 

update: we finished putting on the valve cover and the timing belt covers. W reinstalled the alt belt and the crank pully.

We took off the upper part of the header so we can replace the studs. Any one know where we can buy just the eshoust studs?

Thanx again

 

I would try dealer, like majestic honda.

 

ok guys here is an update. After the install was completed we painted the upper part of the exhaust manifold and fixed the exhaust. (bought washers and bolts from home depo)

Now the belt is loose and the oil pan gasket broke, and was pushed out of the pan.

How can these things happen we put on the belt and my friend installed the tensioner, could he have done it backwards or could the belt be to long for a jdm b16a first gen?

Any way the new jdm valve cover and black manifold look good ill post pics when i get time but for now your help is apreciated.

 

come on guys anyone got any input?