I'm putting the struts/springs and rear lca's from an ITR into my 93 coupe. I'm going to be replacing the hardware since I'm pretty sure its rusted in there anyway.

Civic uses 4 of these for both rear LCA's:
90173-SR3-003 BOLT, ARM TORQUE (LOWER) (10X80)

ITR uses 2 of those above and 2 of these:
90173-ST7-Z01 BOLT, ARM (LOWER) (10X89)

Will I be fine with getting all new Civic bolts? They are ~$6 each so I don't want to waste money or time by not having the right stuff. If anyone has already done this and knows of any other differences, tips/help would be appreciated.

 

The bolts that bolt the LCA to the trailing arm and subframe you can reuse. The only bolts that are different are the strut bolts.

 

no problem...

 

How did this work out for you in terms of handling, ride height, etc.? I'm thinking of doing this with my hatch.

 

To give you an update, I've only put the fronts on and haven't driven it yet. The install would have been extremely easy, like maybe 1hr or less if I didn't have so much farking rust down there. I'm glad that I opted to purchase new hardware beforehand. There's really no perceivable change in ride height. Before I could get 5 fingers in the gap, now its 4 so that's what, maybe 1/2 inch at most? Anyway, I will proceed to do the rears soon and then I'll let you know how it drives. I'm expecting a pretty big difference between the stock 100K+ mi suspension and the newer ~45K mi ITR suspension.

 

A half inch is a huge difference in ride height. The problem is that you're measuring your ride height with your fingers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A half inch is a huge difference in ride height. The problem is that you're measuring your ride height with your fingers.</TD></TR></TABLE>

In terms of handling 1/2 inch may be huge but like I said, I haven't driven it yet.

I was answering the question in terms of aesthetics. When you go from a ~5 inch stock ride height to a ~4.5 inch ride height you can't really see the difference. Perhaps if I took before and after pictures I would be able to tell. Just looking at it now though it still appears to be at stock height.


Modified by xunsungheroesx at 12:22 PM 5/3/2008

 

bump, how is it going with installing the rears?

 

I've had everything on for about 4 weeks with about 3800 mi of driving. It was well worth the time and money spent which wasn't even much to begin with.

Rears weren't as bad as all the frozen bushing/broken bolt horror stories make it seem. Since you are replacing everything you can just remove the LCA and strut together and not deal with the strut bolt at all, but I wanted to separate them so I tried anyway. I broke the bolt heads off as expected.

The hardest part of install was holding down the knuckle/TA assembly while trying to line up the strut with the LCA to get the bolt in. I think there's a way to use a jack so you don't have to be Hulk Hogan to do that part but it didn't occur to me at the time.

You can reuse any of the bolts that aren't broken, stripped or stretched. The only bolt that I changed was the strut bolt - I got new ones from an ITR rather than the civic bolts (as mentioned by the person who answered my original post).

Get a can of penetrating oil beforehand and soak everything a few times. Also don't use an impact gun, go slow with a breaker bar. Use impact sockets or at least a nicer set of sockets. If your stuff is frozen in you will likely break cheap sockets.