Ok so i decided to change my head gasket... motor starts coming apart just fine until the 2 head bolts on each side of the head wont break loose... i tried several different patterns and i cant break these bolts loose. They are flexing like they are going to break and i dont want that to happen. So then i decided to put the head back together and just sell the car as is... well now the timing belt tensioner wont budge.... we took the bolt completely out of it and it shouldve just dropped off but its stuck on there.... its an h23 btw.... what would you guys recommend me doing?

 

getting a longer breaker bar and an impact grade socket

 

tried a impact and it wouldnt touch it and then tried a Snap-on breaker bar with a 10 foot pole on the end.... that bolt wont budge... its gonna snap if i force it... doesnt it ruin the block if it snaps inside the thread?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h23vtak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tried a impact and it wouldnt touch it and then tried a Snap-on breaker bar with a 10 foot pole on the end.... that bolt wont budge... its gonna snap if i force it... doesnt it ruin the block if it snaps inside the thread?</TD></TR></TABLE>

dang if those couldnt get it loose try wd40 then brake it loose

 

yea im about to trash the damn motor and frab an h22 block to go with the head in my room and drop that in.

 

Could you maybe heat the nut/bolt with a torch. Just buy the once piece torch with the tank on it (blue ones)

If you can though try some penetrant. Spray soak the nut/bolts with good penetrant (not wd40, theres way better stuff on the market now)

Heating would be LAST resort though in your case.
Exhaust work, heating bolts is almost a must when nuts/bolts are siezed solid.

 

Use a long breaker bar, and then use a longer pipe on that. There's no reason you shouldn't be able to take the head bolt out.

 

lol read my original post... i had a 6' pole on the end of the breaker bar

 

Did you remove them in the right order?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you remove them in the right order?</TD></TR></TABLE>
didnt think of that but that does matter

 

yeah, you have to torque sequence. they didnt make that up for no reason. a 6' pole should work pretty easily

 

yes ive tried the torque sequence... i guess im looking for a h22 block now... lol i have a fully built head in my room but i guess i might as well build a block and drop it in

 

So the head bolts are still in there? I would say soak them in WD40 or PB Blaster or whatever you like overnight and just go for it. If they break they break, but there's a good chance you will get them loose also.

 

yea the car is being trailered back to my place tonight so ill soak it with that PB penetrating catalyst. Yea if they break in the block whats that mean... Replace the block or is it possible to drill it out?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h23vtak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea the car is being trailered back to my place tonight so ill soak it with that PB penetrating catalyst. Yea if they break in the block whats that mean... Replace the block or is it possible to drill it out?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, any good machine shop should be able to get those broken bolts out for sure. I wouldn't give up on it just for that.

You could try to remove them yourself with those bolt extractor kits, but I would think that would just be a major headache...

 

lol, if they break then ill take it to a machine shop. Hell, if I take it to a machine shop I might as well go ahead and resleeve the block for forged pistons...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h23vtak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol, if they break then ill take it to a machine shop. Hell, if I take it to a machine shop I might as well go ahead and resleeve the block for forged pistons...</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

If you really think that the bolt's going to twist off then drill the bolt's head. If you just crank on it and it twists off you don't get to choose where. It could be down in the block by the threads or in the middle of the shank. Who knows. You could have a very tricky issue on your hands depending on where it break.

If you drill it it will pop the bolt head off and you can then pull the head. The benefit of drilling as a last resort is that there will be about 6" of bolt sticking out of the block afterward that you can get a hold of to remove after the head.

2¢

 

yea thats been considered and most likely thats what im going to do... just to play it safe

 

can you drill iron bolts?

 

get a good carbide bit.

 

You're not going to find any inexpensive carbide drills. Endmills and countersinks yes, but not drills. A standard drill should be enough. But you should get a center drill too to keep the larger drill from walking.

Pirate