just want to know anyones whp #'s, and track #'s as well as how much longer did the motor last over a oem b20 block, if they have a set-up with a dart block. Im in the process of starting to build my daily driven DA project and I was looking at GSR swaps to build when I came across one of my old honda tuning magazines and read the article about endyn building an all motor daily driven dart b20vtec with b16 head this thing made great power with a/c and p/s still on it made about 260 to the wheels if i remember correctly. So this sparked my interest into looking further into it maybe id go with that.

 

NO ONE?

 

im not n/a so my hp numbers arent going to be relevent to you, but im very impressed with my dart block. with the proper machine work by a top notch machinist familiar with them, it turned out perfect and has held some abuse. has very large mains and larger bolts, much larger webbing in the crank area, and bigger water jackets. plus it was new so no crazy scrubbing, cleaning, and painting was required to make it look nice.

 

what crank did u use cuz i know buying it straight from theoldone.com its just the bare block alone...im thinking of buying the b20 tall deck.

 

I used a Honda LS crank.

 

I use a tall-deck Dart, it's a 92x85 combo, I have used a Crower crank but it failed on me and the motor is currently beeing rebuilt, I have a Scat Pro-comp crank that will go into it this time. I also got my block new and fresh, and there's some prep work that needs to be done to get it ready for use, I spent a good bit of time cleaning up the machining, deburring and cleaning it inside and out.

How is the hood clearance in a DA? In my DC2 the Honda logo on the valvecover barely touches the skeleton of the hood sometimes so it's a tight fit, remember that the block adds 14mm deckheight so it's a good idea to check for clearance.

 

The hood clearance on a DA i believe is a bit better then that of a DC2 plus I am planning on adding shims on the latches to get the hood to raise a little...trying to get some ITB's...but i really would like to make this a good thread lets get some people with experience on this build and here and everyone have some info tips for each other i guess.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pondus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I have used a Crower crank but it failed on me </TD></TR></TABLE>

What exactly happened, if you dont mind me asking.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What exactly happened, if you dont mind me asking.</TD></TR></TABLE>

same here. btw, im using the tall deck.

 

The nose of the crank broke off, where the diameter is reduced from the oil pump drive to the timing belt gear, and the resulting loss of camdrive did some additional damage to the motor. This all happened while I was cruising to work, doing 55mph in 5th gear.

 

anyone go with a oem crank...GSR, OR TYPE-R?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM809 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone go with a oem crank...GSR, OR TYPE-R?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I used an LS.

 

I had a big bore ITR with a dart block 85mm bore with 87.2 stroke.
Made 257 on it's last dyno pull before tear down and part out.
My best was 267.8 whp.
Search my user name in the archives and start reading , i posted alot of dyno test's and stuff. the build post was titled "Dart build".
I had about 14,000 miles on mine and i beleive its still alive(rebuilt for new owner by DonF) in a racecar in New Zealannd . I put several hundred dyno pulls on it as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tbone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had a big bore ITR with a dart block 85mm bore with 87.2 stroke.
Made 257 on it's last dyno pull before tear down and part out.
My best was 267.8 whp.
Search my user name in the archives and start reading , i posted alot of dyno test's and stuff. the build post was titled "Dart build".
I had about 14,000 miles on mine and i beleive its still alive(rebuilt for new owner by DonF) in a racecar in New Zealannd . I put several hundred dyno pulls on it as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was wondering if youd post in this thread. Its good to see you around, man.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tbone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had a big bore ITR with a dart block 85mm bore with 87.2 stroke.
Made 257 on it's last dyno pull before tear down and part out.
My best was 267.8 whp.
Search my user name in the archives and start reading , i posted alot of dyno test's and stuff. the build post was titled "Dart build".
I had about 14,000 miles on mine and i beleive its still alive(rebuilt for new owner by DonF) in a racecar in New Zealannd . I put several hundred dyno pulls on it as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
We changed a few things around for Road Racing, and i belive he has won his first two races and been the fastest FWD car. It helps that he can drive, makes my stuff look good.

 

whats everyone views as far as building something like this as a daily driver...how reliable?

 

It is as reliable as the builder and the parts used. The block is stronger than the B20 it replaces.

 

The Dart head is good as well, and I'm suprised more people don't use it. People drop $2000 on headwork for some 10 year old junk core all the time, and most of the time the heads they get couldn't hold a candle to the Dart head. With the Dart, you get a brand new head and you know exactly what it will flow before you ever buy it.

Is there more flow beyond the Dart port? Yes, but I guarantee you the average Joe doesn't get that when they get a head from MOST places.

 

I know this on the all motor section and that's what I'm planning on building, but just curious about itb or boost dart b20v's what kind of power was made and how long did the build last.

 

I dont want my post to be construded as a k series vs. b20vtec. But as far as assembly/parts/machince time. What would I be looking at total price wise?. I have a gsr head sitting around now and a type r trans that I paid less then nothing for. So I know im already off to a good start.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM809 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know this on the all motor section and that's what I'm planning on building, but just curious about itb or boost dart b20v's what kind of power was made and how long did the build last.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Read my last post . Search my old posts. i was itb'b and I also told you how long it lasted before tear down.

 

got 1 loved it!!