will the Password Dry Carbon Fiber Power Intake (whale *****) directly fit on my D16y8 motor help me out before i purchase from jhpusa.com, thanks?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bnasty84 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">will the Password Dry Carbon Fiber Power Intake (whale *****) directly fit on my D16y8 motor help me out before i purchase from jhpusa.com, thanks? </TD></TR></TABLE>

it should, what does the site say? they should specify this.

 

it says its for b-series engines onl, but i want this intake for my car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bnasty84 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it says its for b-series engines onl, but i want this intake for my car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i want to say it should. you might have to change the rubber coupling at the TB. why don't you call these guys up. they would have a definate answer.

 

sounds good?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i want to say it should. you might have to change the rubber coupling at the TB. why don't you call these guys up. they would have a definate answer.
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Yeah, the throttle body is larger, so you'll probably want a B series rubber coupler.

You can probably stretch the old one to fit around the throttle body though, realistically speaking there's no difference there as far as a rubber coupler is concerned.

Though I'd be concerned more about engine clearance, the B series motors seem to "stick up" more than the Y8's - more interference, I'm not sure if (I don't think) it'll clear the dizzy area .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah, the throttle body is larger, so you'll probably want a B series rubber coupler.

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actually, the d16 uses a 2.5" coupler at the TB, the b-series uses a 3". just wanted to note that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

actually, the d16 uses a 2.5" coupler at the TB, the b-series uses a 3". just wanted to note that. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I did not know that. I was going by ID (inside diameters).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I did not know that. I was going by ID (inside diameters).</TD></TR></TABLE>

that's cool. yeah, i ordered a ebay CAI and the idiot sent me one for a d16. i only had to change the coupler, not a big deal.

i know what you're thinking ebay. i just couldn't come to terms, just didn't see the point on paying over $100 on a intake system. i kept the intake pipes, ditched the cheap air filter and picked a K&N. the whole thing cost me $48, used the rest of my money and applied it to my susupension, where it counts!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

that's cool. yeah, i ordered a ebay CAI and the idiot sent me one for a d16. i only had to change the coupler, not a big deal.

i know what you're thinking ebay. i just couldn't come to terms, just didn't see the point on paying over $100 on a intake system. i kept the intake pipes, ditched the cheap air filter and picked a K&N. the whole thing cost me $48, used the rest of my money and applied it to my susupension, where it counts! </TD></TR></TABLE>

I hear ya, you can find good **** on ebay, as long as it's not knock off crap - but when it comes to intake, a pipe is a pipe, I don't care how you split it, the only thing that matters is the Filter (K&N or AEM, and I see you have a K&N, the same way I go), and you took care of that, so iz all good.