My titanum Mastercrap drill bits are not drilling and they are brand new and im using oil lol. Anyone shot me some ideas

 

you need to get a set of cobalt bits

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by k24em2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you need to get a set of cobalt bits</TD></TR></TABLE>



I find with drilling stainless if you lay off the pressure attall and the drill bit stops cutting and just starts rubbing thats when you blunt bits real quick so try and keep constant pressure on all the way through.

 

try running it at about half the speed you would for mild steel.

 

I ran the Titanum bits at full out with all the presure i could give it and oil no go. I did a bit of pressure and some oil no go. Im gonna get 2 or three colbolt bits thats what i thought.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I ran the Titanum bits at full out </TD></TR></TABLE>

you need to drill stainless at SLOW speed. coolant is probably better than oil as it has better cooling properties. oil is more for tapping than drilling.

 

stainless work hardens if you don't keep the speed and feed consistent. If you overheat the material it will harden and you'll never be able to get through it.

Cobalt bits work well. Use a heavy oil, spin slow and push lightly. don't overheat it!

Are you doing this by hand with a drill or do you have a drill press? Mill?

 

Watch for a good runout and a good web thinning on the drill. Reduce speed and cut with water rather than oil.

 

Like stated above, colbalt bits, start small and go larger in size, go slow without a lot of pressure, I like to use lots of WD40 as it allows the chips to clear easier than oil. Stainless is a bitch to drill with a hand drill so be patient.

 

Cobalt bits are brittle too so keep them strait!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snowseeker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cobalt bits are brittle too so keep them strait!</TD></TR></TABLE>

and expensive!

 

I know when I drill stainless in a drill press, slow and steady w/o much pressure is the way to go.

 

way off topic, but didnt feel the need to start a new topic. i recieved a miter saw as a gift. i mainly cut stainless, aluminum, mild steel, normal fabrication crap like tubing materials. of course the miter saw came with a 40tooth carbide blade.

first off, should i return this for a chop saw? second off, if this miter is a keeper, what type of blade/cutoff wheel should i get? (i was thinking the general purpose dewalt abrasive cutting wheel????)

thanks guys

 

Harbor Freight step bits work great, and last.

 

another thing about drilling stainless. DONT stop once the bit starts cutting, stainless hardens so bad when u get it hot then it cools, then it eats your bit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RCautoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Harbor Freight step bits work great, and last. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You are kidding right? I cant them to drill plastic much less steel. I bought a grip of them cause they were cheap, then I found out why.

 

With stainless, you have 2 things going against you. Its harder and doesn't disapate heat well.

You need a harder/stronger drill bit made of a material that can take more heat (cobalt), as well as a shallower angle than normal bits, which are usually 118 degrees. 135 is common for hard steels, although you can get them past 150.

 

I use the thickest possible cheap bottle of oil from advance auto parts and a RIDGID cobalt croytreated bit. drills just fine. and i go at about 500rpm, which is the slowest setting on my press

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpeedDreamz.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You are kidding right? I cant them to drill plastic much less steel. I bought a grip of them cause they were cheap, then I found out why.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're doing something wrong then, the step drills work great. You can't really start them on a hole, they do work but its easy to use a small drill bit then switch over.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redboost10 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">way off topic, but didnt feel the need to start a new topic. i recieved a miter saw as a gift. i mainly cut stainless, aluminum, mild steel, normal fabrication crap like tubing materials. of course the miter saw came with a 40tooth carbide blade.

first off, should i return this for a chop saw? second off, if this miter is a keeper, what type of blade/cutoff wheel should i get? (i was thinking the general purpose dewalt abrasive cutting wheel????)

thanks guys </TD></TR></TABLE>

get a "cold saw" its better than a chop saw. (but they're like 400 dollars with the blades) other wise get a chop saw...around 100-150.