So i have a 92 Integra that i have had for about 6months now..I was going to boost it but then decided that i would rather have vtec...Now here is the part that is making me think and need help on..My motor has 140,000 and im debating on doing the ls/vtec with the original stuff in there...For the time being....( Im going to build the bottom end.... Just in the process of moving and stuff so no time) So now here is the thing...Im thinking that if i dont rev the **** out of it ill be ok....But is that good to think??? Or am i wrong...Also i cant seem to find everything i need..So if possible can some one post a list of every possible part i would..Need...I just want an all motor car..Nothing to fancy and or a money pit... SO please recommendations...Opinions...Thoughts..Anything is helpful

 

IMO use the quick search you will find alot more usefull information, i would say why even put vtec on it if you are not going to rev it up? just normal 3-4k shifting, than you will not even pretty much have vtec. wait till you have enough time to do the project right i have learned in the past or this will happen when you get too antzy

 

no i understand....I mean i am going to rev it but im not doing like 9k revs...That wat i mean....

 

Your in the same boat that I am...I did my ls/v swap about a year and a half ago. I know everyone says their unreliable but...it's only because the rod bolts are unable to hold the high rpms. I chipped my ecu to run the stock rev limiter too keep it safe. Being that it's my daily driver theres no need to take the risk with 170k on the bottom end. Everyone gives me crap about it "It's worthless to have an vtec since your not in the higher revs". Well, later down the road when I have the chance I will build up the bottom, it's just not practical for me at this point to completely pull the motor apart. The thing is, it's still fun to have. I'm not popping vtec every shift and I'm not at the track so I can wait.

But if you have the time to pull the engine, definetely get the arp rod bolts, from what I've heard you can get to the higher revs by just putting those on but a rebuild would make it safer. (Also don't forget ARP Head bolts for extra protection).

 

I have a 91 integra ls complete stock not even a intake. the car is perfect. I am also thinking of ls/vtec I know I can do it I just don't no what i need.So i'm in the same boat you are. this will be my first honda build ever and I want to make sure thgat I do it right the first time. I'm dreaming of vtec because i've never had it. every one I know with hondas has already done there swaps and I cant stand it.
It took me a while but now I have one. I wish I could post a picture but I don't know how.

 

LS/V can be built to be reliable. as long as u sleeve the block and get ARP headbolts + peenod rods itll be fine. dont go past redline. when u add the b16 head to the LS block ur redline goes from 6800 to 7190. but you shouldnt rush things, wait untill u save enough or buy all the parts first then build it as a whole together. if u just get it part by part and keep adding it, ur bound to go wrong somewhere.
also read up on a lot of information about it so that your REALLY sure of what you need and what to do.

iknow how u feel, i have a friend with built LS/V. he spent 1 year gathering parts and information. it cost him about $6000+ to get it tuned and everything. he dynod at 240bhp and 187trq. i also have 2 friends that own a RSX type S and my uncle has a GSR. my DD is just a LS, so right now im saving up and will be swapping a GSR with bolt ons and ITR tranny.


if u really cant wait just think of it this way. Vtec isnt going anywhere, u have the rest of ur life to get it and if u rush things now, something will expletive up later. do it right and take ur time and ull be very happy in the end. PROMISED!

 

thanx i understand what every one says so i guess i will gather the parts and go from there...Now i need to find a complete head....Which i cant find anywhere...I see them but they are always missing parts or multiple parts....So i need to find that first and the ecu....

 

just take ur time man. the longer u take, the better price/ condition you'll find and u wont regret it. if u rush it and say u buy the first b16head u see that is complete... 1 week later u could find a better deal. so just wait it out and do everything right.

 

ok well i mean i have found this head for 300 but it needs all of this

it would need throttle body (which if you already have a b-series throttle body it would work) fuel rail and injectors (which also i think you can swap from an ls engine) a dizzy, and cam gears. i also have a hondata intake manifold gasket for it.....i think i do have a spare rail and injectors laying around, i could prolly toss in. also i beleive all b series cam gears are interchangable, so if you have a complete ls engine, you would be set, with the exeption of the dizzy..

and is it true that some of the things are interchangeable...OR no...Also would gsr parts be interchangeable for the b16 head...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_CRX_PLEASE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LS/V can be built to be reliable. as long as u sleeve the block and get ARP headbolts + peenod rods itll be fine. dont go past redline. when u add the b16 head to the LS block ur redline goes from 6800 to 7190. but you shouldnt rush things, wait untill u save enough or buy all the parts first then build it as a whole together. if u just get it part by part and keep adding it, ur bound to go wrong somewhere.
also read up on a lot of information about it so that your REALLY sure of what you need and what to do.

!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wrong! You dont need to sleeve a block to have a reliable LS Vtec. Maybe you should read more info on how to build a reliable one.
You don't need ARP head bolts either, they are just better to use over stock ones. Which stock ones are fine to use. You are thinking of ARP rod bolts which are obvious in running a LS motor over a stock LS redline.
The redline is based on the computer and not some arbitrary number you just made up.
b16 redlines differ from year and from ECU.
Try a golden eagle vtec conversion kit and getting a chipped ecu from a reputable source like Rywire.com or Phearables.net

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bmwpride &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok well i mean i have found this head for 300 but it needs all of this

it would need throttle body (which if you already have a b-series throttle body it would work) fuel rail and injectors (which also i think you can swap from an ls engine) a dizzy, and cam gears. i also have a hondata intake manifold gasket for it.....i think i do have a spare rail and injectors laying around, i could prolly toss in. also i beleive all b series cam gears are interchangable, so if you have a complete ls engine, you would be set, with the exeption of the dizzy..


and is it true that some of the things are interchangeable...OR no...Also would gsr parts be interchangeable for the b16 head...</TD></TR></TABLE>


You will def. need a vtec dizzy, non vtec dizzies do not work. Since u have a 92 your car is already obd-1 which means u only need a obd-1 VTEC ecu, you are gonna have to drill a hole into the head for the vtec oil return line and get the lsvtec conversion kit from eagle one which comes with the oil line and head gasket ( Using a LS Head Gasket works as well if you get your lsvtec kit from another place with no gasket). Then get all new gaskets for everything besides the HG, new belts, b16 water pump. You will need more than just a chip, you'll need a full tune because ls vtec has no fuel map generated by Honda...thats pretty much the basics

 

i understand all of that...Now what i was asking was.. is that head worth it even though im missing so many parts for it to be complete...I mean yes...I can get better parts but would it be better if i got a complete head instead of buying this one and buying the parts it needs

 

ok here is the head im think about...

http://s63.photobucket.com/alb...3.jpg

http://s63.photobucket.com/alb...2.jpg

http://s63.photobucket.com/alb...1.jpg

http://s63.photobucket.com/alb...l.jpg

http://s63.photobucket.com/alb...5.jpg

http://s63.photobucket.com/alb...4.jpg

http://s63.photobucket.com/alb...s.jpg

good condition bad...Let me know

 

pics didn't work

but as long as you get ARP head bolts and do the oil lie corect;y yu should be good

these will help
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW

 

I've got a question. Where do you tap the oil lines into. I can't find any pic or vid discription any were. I no I can do it just dont know were. p.s. i'm new to honda-tech and still learning to search for information.

 

This one has a pretty good pic

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2128584

 

damn, so does some one think i should buy this head or not

 

Thanks, thats good enough.

 

i'm in the same boat as you guys...got 125xxx miles on the engine and dont know if i should do it now or at 200,000 mile mark...cant find a thread from complete start to finish of what to do as far as runing oil lines to what head gasket and cams to use....there are good threads, but for someone who never built an engine before there isn't anything put into lame terms and it sux

 

well i found a head that is complete for 350 so i think im getting that and the building the head as i get the money and then when thats done...Pulling the motor and buildining that as well...So thats the plan at the moment