this here bolt




does not see to be coming off even after a lot of turns with my wrech

is there some kind of trick to removal?

also, i removed the bolt that holds tghe LCA to the subframe



and the LCA is still there even after cranking up the suspension up n down, another trick???

 

BUMP!!!

UPDATE: i found out that the nut and bot are moving at the same time cuz i marked them witha silver shaprie, its the wholw thing thatr moves, anyone know where the top of the bolt is at or where to get to it?

im going out again to go look

 

The bolt is part of the ball joint.

 

ok so i tried to jack up the suspension to put pressue ont he bolt to hold it oiin place, doesnt work




you can see the nut and bolt move

and there is nothing on the top to grab the bolt as i turn the nut

 

I would try heating it up if you have a heat gun. Make sure you hold the heat on the castle nut and not on the threaded stud. That would defeat the purpose.

If that doesn't work, try soaking the nut and stud with WD-40 and let it sit for awhile. Then use your 19mm? wrench on the nut while applying pressure to the bottom of the stud with your jack.

 

hrm i may try that the shock is OUT so that makes things easier


Modified by 361 accord at 8:08 PM 12/29/2007

 

bump

 

i just did my ball joints too and it was a pain in the ****. we ended up using a torch and a huge hammer and it poped out. just be careful not to tear the boot.

 

Are you using an impact gun? Did you remove the cotter pin?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlkChryKord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you using an impact gun? Did you remove the cotter pin?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Impact gun and some PB Blaster ...edit: and try and shim something like a flathead between the nut and the LCR , just for some resistance.

 

are you going to replace the ball joint, because you could just cut the castle nut off and pop whats left of the threaded end of the ball joint out with a pickle fork, but remember your gunna end up messing the threads up and with a pickle fork your gunna rip the boot on the joint

 

heat it up, soak it in PB blaster, wait, soak it some more. wait 5 mins. heat and soak again. wait another 5 mins. then put an impact gun on it and it should come right off. If you don't have an impact, just use a box end wrench and whack it with a hammer. it's basicly the same idea.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jweller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">heat it up, soak it in PB blaster, wait, soak it some more. wait 5 mins. heat and soak again. wait another 5 mins. then put an impact gun on it and it should come right off. If you don't have an impact, just use a box end wrench and whack it with a hammer. it's basicly the same idea.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no im not replacing the ball joint, its fine

and what about a fork?!?!? it looks to me that i can just remove the nut, slip in a new LCA and be done with it

how hot do i have to get it? all ive got is a hair dryer (it works fine to melt glue for DIY JDM lighting stuff)

 

the nut is on the shaft of the ball joint, the ball joint is tapered fit to the lca, sometimes you can get lucky and pry on the top of the lca and hit the side of the lca with a hammer and it will just pop right off sometimes when the threaded part is spinning with the nut it will back its self off and you dont have to worry about it, when you get the lca off you will see what i mean, normaly when you just remove the nut you have to pop the lca free and not damage the ball joint

 

ahh i gotya i think

i got the ball joint kinda spinning around freely, which is not a bad thing cuz that means i dont have to worry about damaging the joint trying to remove it

only catch is to get the nut off but
lube+wrench+big expletivein hammer=teh win

 

Best thing to do is remove the CV axle out of the way.

Once the CV axle is out, support the lower control arm with a jackstand and hit the top part of the ball joint with a hammer to drive the taper shaft back into the lower control arm taper hole. That will prevent the threaded shaft from spinning when you try to remove the nut off the ball joint. That way you don't damage the ball joint.
You can also just cut off the nut with a Dremel carefully and split it releasing it from the threaded shaft.

Good luck.

 

big problem being the real only way to get the cv out is by popping the lower ball joint so you can move the knuckle and get the drive side of the cv out, i mean there are other ways if you get creative, but this is the safest so you dont dimple the bearing races in the axle

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91h22cb7lx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">big problem being the real only way to get the cv out is by popping the lower ball joint so you can move the knuckle and get the drive side of the cv out</TD></TR></TABLE>

no, he already has the strut and fork removed as well as the bolt that holds the LCA to the subframe. So by prying the LCA out of the subframe you can swing the knuckle and LCA out to pull the axle. The radius rod may also need to be unbolted from the LCA to get enough movement, I'm not sure, but thats only 2 bolts anyway if needed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AccordEX1991 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Best thing to do is remove the CV axle out of the way.

Once the CV axle is out, support the lower control arm with a jackstand and hit the top part of the ball joint with a hammer to drive the taper shaft back into the lower control arm taper hole. That will prevent the threaded shaft from spinning when you try to remove the nut off the ball joint. That way you don't damage the ball joint.
You can also just cut off the nut with a Dremel carefully and split it releasing it from the threaded shaft.

Good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

He speaks the truth. The problem isn't getting the ball joint out of the hole (that'll be next ) he needs to get the nut off the ball joint. The only thing I would add is spraying some degreaser on the part of the ball joint that goes in the hole. Sometimes some grease gets on there and makes it slide around in the hole.

 

anyone know if autozone or any place like that rents air compressors n ****?

 

dont think that any part store will rent an air compressor, there are a few industrial supply rental places will, and some hardware stores will too, i think the truevalue by me does, i know the ace by me doesnt rent anything

 

YARRR!!!

well i can get an impact wrench from my grandpa's house but the air compressor he has is too damn big to handle

my "brother" can supposedly get a hold of a portable air compressor though but he's not too reliable and idk if the **** head neighbors hav jacked the stuff i need or not from his house since he doesnt live there any more

 

came right off with the impact wrench, got the new LCA on but the radius rod must have gotten straightened out or pulled the frame or something because the tire is still way too close to the mudflap