double check that i have everything in the right order.

im a bit confused D and E, what goes in between there? or is there only suppose to be one washer? 4 of the 8 washers are smaller than the rest. does the small one go on the top or bottom?

i know there is a bump stop between e and f, but its still on my car right now.


Modified by 20ls01 at 12:00 AM 12/27/2007

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2114408

 

The washer that has the smaller outer diameter is known as the bumpstop plate, and is required. With regular springs, you would put the stock dust cover over the bumpstop plate, and then the other washer on top of that.

With GC's you don't need the other washer since you can't use the factory dust covers. However I just stuck both washers on there when I had my GC's, just so I wouldn't have as much left-over hardware laying around. It doesn't really matter either way.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 20ls01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thank you patrick... i was wondering why there is sooooo much spring freeplay when the suspension is drooping. isnt that bad if i go airborn and force the shock to fully extend?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, hopefully you won't be getting airborne anytime soon unless you're rally racing, in which case your ride height should be rather high anyway.

During normal driving and cornering, the inside tires never unload enough to unseat the spring, especially if a sway bar is present. When the car turns and tries to lean, sway bars will pull up on the inside control arms and keep the suspension from drooping much.

That's how I rotate my tires. Put jack under front jack point, and my ITR rear sway bar will lift the rear tire off the ground shortly after the front tire gets off the ground, and that rear tire doesn't droop nearly as much as if I raised both sides equally.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 20ls01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">m afraid if i do go airborn the spring and gc rubber bushing will not seat properly when the car comes back down and something bad is going to happen.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I can't say that I've ever had a problem in years of driving multiple cars that have the springs loose at full droop, because I almost never experience a full droop situation. In the few times that I have, there wasn't a problem. I can't say that I've heard of anyone else ever having a problem either.

Did you know that a lot of cars come stock from the factory with springs that come loose at full droop, including various BMWs and Hondas?

Don't go rally-jumping your car and you won't have to worry.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i like the omni-power coilover design....</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't, because the stroke is fixed at a set length that isn't necessarily ideal.

 

You really should be using the thicker washer. As the damper piston moves, it pushes up on that bumpstop plate, so you don't want to risk it getting deformed or broken.

I've actually heard that in certain European countries, one of the things checked for during inspection is that the springs are "captive" and not loose when at full droop. Of course that's not an issue in this country (that I know of) but just an interesting tidbit.

 

heh it gets quicker every time. I can probably remove my suspension from all 4 corners of my car in about 30 minutes.

And since you have GC's on there, it's very easy to remove the top hat, switch the washers around, and put the top hat back on.

 

how long is the front koni shocks body, and how long is the shaft?
what car is this for?

 

The jam nuts? 20mm? I think mine are 19mm...

Anyway, to keep the shock piston from turning, use a 9mm wrench on that very upper yellow part, right below the adjusting tab.

I usually put the box end of my 19mm onto the jam nut first, and then the box end of a 9mm wrench onto the top part of the shaft to hold it, then tighten the first jam nut. It should go down to the very bottom of the thread.

Then put your other jam nut on, and again put the 19mm box end on first and then the 9mm box end, and tighten the 2nd jam nut down against the first one.

 

Well yeah you have to remove the shock assembly to take the top hat off, but once you get it off, the top hat comes off easily.

And the 9mm portion isn't a nut. It's part of the shaft itself, and is hex shaped for the purpose of holding the shaft in place while you tighten the nuts.

And a 3rd nut on top of the 2 jam nuts would be pretty pointless. The 2 nuts jammed together are more than enough. Never had a problem with mine coming loose, and I have about 155,000 miles on my Koni shocks.