Question on block sanding primer???
Ok i have a problem! I grind the paint away about 2-3 inches away from the damaged area then pull my dent straighten the metal, feather my paint edge with 80 grit then add filler and a final skim coat of glaze final sanded with 180 grit im usually using a long block for this process! the problem im seeing is my body work looks slightly lumpy or wavy and im using dry guide coat and my sanding block is new and while sanding the guide coat in an x patteren everything seems to look great and feels great i tried to take a picture of this but its not visible with my camera! i can only see this when i spray wax and grease remover over it and sight down the side, or when clear is applied! im thinking maybe im pressing to hard or not enough primer?? altough i usually prime twice 1st time ending in 320 grit and the second i wet sand with 400 then lightly wet sand with 600! someone please help me with this problem any tips or hints will help! thanks in advance
Ryan
Ryan
1. after pulling dent..put a good amount of filler over the metal/damaged area all the way to the paint with a bondo spreader. also make sure that u scuff the paint thats around the paint with 80 grit just about an inch so that the bondo would stick right..put a decent amount a little bit more than u would think it needs..make sure its mixed right with hardener.
2. when its gets hard close to cheese use cheese grater to get of extra filler and shape it. dont take off too much. then block it with 40 grit..then 80 grit. thats it for the filler/bondo. no 180...
3. mix metal glaze with hardener.. use spread over whole area using good pressure ..and just a little over into the paint about an inch. thats why it should be scuffed..
4. start off block with 80 then 120 then 180...or 80 100 180.
use guide coat and good judgement.. while doing this body work process go over it with ur hand seeing how smooth it gets or how it should be...
5.clean area with wax and grease remover..then put the most prime over the repair area then blend it evenly out into the paint depending on how big the repair was...guide coat then block with 240 grit...then prime again guide coat...then 320...then 500 wetsand.
6. if repair was on door.. scuff whole door and edges with red scotch bright if repair was done on qtr panrl scuff whole qtr panel, if dont in fender scuff whole fender ......so paintjob will come out good...also when u prime it dont hardline it... those will be hard to sand..featheredge it..( you dont want people to see a slight outline of reapir once its painted).
good luck.
2. when its gets hard close to cheese use cheese grater to get of extra filler and shape it. dont take off too much. then block it with 40 grit..then 80 grit. thats it for the filler/bondo. no 180...
3. mix metal glaze with hardener.. use spread over whole area using good pressure ..and just a little over into the paint about an inch. thats why it should be scuffed..
4. start off block with 80 then 120 then 180...or 80 100 180.
use guide coat and good judgement.. while doing this body work process go over it with ur hand seeing how smooth it gets or how it should be...
5.clean area with wax and grease remover..then put the most prime over the repair area then blend it evenly out into the paint depending on how big the repair was...guide coat then block with 240 grit...then prime again guide coat...then 320...then 500 wetsand.
6. if repair was on door.. scuff whole door and edges with red scotch bright if repair was done on qtr panrl scuff whole qtr panel, if dont in fender scuff whole fender ......so paintjob will come out good...also when u prime it dont hardline it... those will be hard to sand..featheredge it..( you dont want people to see a slight outline of reapir once its painted).
good luck.
I also do bodywork/prep and slight painting and i know i left that part out about sanding my filler before applying my skim coat of glaze i have never really seen this lumpy type of look in anything ive done before until recently and i started working at a different shop around 6 months ago and were using primer called medallion the painter says its cheap but im not sure if this would make a difference in the material build up and give the bodywork a crappy apperance! i used to use ppg at the other shop so i dunno whats going on ive been through a high school bodyshop class and also through the wyotech trade school program which was a joke i thought but im really trying to hone my skills because i would like to eventually open my own custom shop! thanks for all your help and actually taking time to help another person out rather than just calling them a d-bag and going on with ur day lol thanks again
Ryan
Ryan
ok need help once again! i did a door skin today on a black trail blazer and i ground the edge about 4 inches around the entire door skin it appeared that it needed no mud but i ground it just to make sure i had no little bumps or imperfections then i feathered the E-coat with 80 then 180 grit on a da! i primed and blocked twice everything appeared ok. Once painted you could see a slight line about 3-4 inches from the door edge looked like a primer line but i never masked it so that couldnt be it! ne suggestions???? wednesday ill be switching primers just to see if it is product or user error!! thanks in advance
Ryan
Ryan
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ya i asked the 2 other guys i work with what they thought and 1 said maybe the primer is **** or i need to sand it more but i primed way out 2 make sure and the other guy said its black and everything shows lol so really no good tips or pointers there. thats why i turned to you guys on hond-tech! Im gunna try a different primer when i go 2 work on wednesday i guess that will really tell me if its product or user error and when the paint rep comes in i will deff. have a talk with him about the problem!! Also about the pictures if i tried to take 1 u wouldnt be able 2 see it!!! Thanks again guys!!!!
Ryan
Ryan
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