I am looking at the jl subs. I have had them in the past and really like them and the quality of bass. There are many kinds out there and I been out of the scene for a while. I have a coupe so I was thinking about using a 12" sub. I don't want the weight of a huge box for having 2 10". Which JL sub would be the best for what I want. Music preference is mostly hop/hop. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I do have the JL Audio ZR650-CSi 6.5 inch Component Speaker System as well.

 

what's your budget?...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_NA_eg6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what's your budget?...</TD></TR></TABLE>

That and what amp do you have to push it? Or is that something you need to purchase as well?

 

if you're concerned about weight I'd bypass the w7 series....the 10" are 30 pounds a piece and the 13w7 comes in around 50 lbs

I haven't heard the w6 series but might want to take a look.....

 

no budget, I just want a hard hitting sub that wont need a huge box. My idea is to flush mount it in the spare tire cover. Yes I will need amp too.

 

 

are you going to glass it into the tire well?

 

not really sure yet

 

One 12" JL Audio W3.


Modified by 94_DC4 at 4:20 PM 12/21/2007

 

how about this? http://cgi.ebay.com/JL-Audio-1...wItem

 

I can't say I like w7's. Yes they are loud, but every one I've heard did not have very tight bass response, as in a bit sloppy.

I'm a big fan of the rest of their subs though


If you have a boston acoustics dealer near you I would recommend going and listening to the G5 Sub. I've had one in multiple vehicles and it is a VERY nice sub. Very tight, chest punching bass that can be as musical as you like.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikeycivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how about this? http://cgi.ebay.com/JL-Audio-1...wItem</TD></TR></TABLE>That's a good sub, will work in a 1.25 cuft "net" sealed box, however it is an 8 ohm VC you will need an amp that makes at least 1x300W RMS into 8 ohms, [or 1x600W RMS into 4 ohms]. 94

 

i have a kenwood excelon 12, it believe it or not, it hits almost as hard as my buddy's 2 12" type r's. i love it actually. i have it in series with a 600w amp.

 

Those sound pretty poopy

 

i know nothing about ohms. I want loud, light weight, and small box.

 

Ohms is the resistance of the speakers VC, [voice coil] speakers come is diff. impedance's, [measured in ohms] most subs come in 2, 4, 6 or 8 ohms of resistance and in SVC, [single voice coil] or DVC, [dual voice coil] the impedance of the VC(s) is important, the link you posted was of 12" 300W SVC 8 ohm sub, most amps will produce half the wattage each time you double the speakers impedance, or put another way double their power every time you halve the impedance, EG; you have an amp rated at 1x300W RMS into 4 ohms, connect the same amp up to a 2 ohm sub and it will make 1x600W RMS, now connect it to an 8 ohm sub, [like the one you linked] and the amp makes only 1x150W RMS into 8 ohms, there are amps that are an exception to the rule, they have "special" regulated power supplies and make the same wattage into a range of impedance's,
EG; JL Audio Slash series amps make rated wattage from 1.5 ohms to 4 ohms, but will drop output into 8 ohms.

You want loud, and a small enclosure, so the first thing you need is power, [watts], next is a single speaker, one speaker = smaller enclosure...

I would recommend the JL 10W7... http://mobile.jlaudio.com/prod..._id=5
Recommended enclosure is 1.25cuft net... http://mobile.jlaudio.com/prod..._id=5
I would recommend a JL Audio 500/1v2... http://mobile.jlaudio.com/prod...d=439 to drive the 10W7 as it is a power hungry sub.

I have done a couple 10W7 and 500/1 amp systems in Honda/Acura spare tire well enclosures with very good results, clean, tight, and accurate sub bass, loud in a coupe and very loud in a hatch. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ohms is the resistance of the speakers VC, [voice coil] speakers come is diff. impedance's, [measured in ohms] most subs come in 2, 4, 6 or 8 ohms of resistance and in SVC, [single voice coil] or DVC, [dual voice coil] the impedance of the VC(s) is important, the link you posted was of 12" 300W SVC 8 ohm sub, most amps will produce half the wattage each time you double the speakers impedance, or put another way double their power every time you halve the impedance, EG; you have an amp rated at 1x300W RMS into 4 ohms, connect the same amp up to a 2 ohm sub and it will make 1x600W RMS, now connect it to an 8 ohm sub, [like the one you linked] and the amp makes only 1x150W RMS into 8 ohms, there are amps that are an exception to the rule, they have "special" regulated power supplies and make the same wattage into a range of impedance's,
EG; JL Audio Slash series amps make rated wattage from 1.5 ohms to 4 ohms, but will drop output into 8 ohms.

You want loud, and a small enclosure, so the first thing you need is power, [watts], next is a single speaker, one speaker = smaller enclosure...

I would recommend the JL 10W7... http://mobile.jlaudio.com/prod..._id=5
Recommended enclosure is 1.25cuft net... http://mobile.jlaudio.com/prod..._id=5
I would recommend a JL Audio 500/1v2... http://mobile.jlaudio.com/prod...d=439 to drive the 10W7 as it is a power hungry sub.

I have done a couple 10W7 and 500/1 amp systems in Honda/Acura spare tire well enclosures with very good results, clean, tight, and accurate sub bass, loud in a coupe and very loud in a hatch. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>


WOW thanks for all that info. I understand the ohms a little more now. I guess I want a sub with the lowest ohms then? I was thinking about the w7 but thing is HEAVY. Weight in a slow civic is my worst enemy. Do you think that the 12w3 or the 12w6 would work out for me?

Also are the JBL subs any good?


Modified by mikeycivic at 12:08 AM 12/23/2007

 

I guess I want a sub with the lowest ohms then?
Not necessarily, SQ, [sound quality] is better at higher impedances, the lower the impedance the harder the amp has to work, which means more heat at the amp.
Stick with 4 ohms, 8 ohms is even better but will require a bigger amp.

Take the 8 ohm sub you linked, [12W3v3-8] a 300W 8 ohm sub, JL Audio also makes the same sub in a 4 and 2 ohm version... http://mobile.jlaudio.com/prod...id=25 all are 300W subs, the reason for 3 diff. impedances is so you have wiring options for multiple subs... http://mobile.jlaudio.com/supp...d=160 although this is not an issue for you, except as it relates to the "final load", your "final load" will be whatever the subs VC impedance is, unless of coarse you get a DVC sub.

As I mentioned the 12W3v3-8, [you linked] is a very good sub, and will work for you in a 1.25cuft sealed enclosure.
All you have to do is get an amp that makes at least 300W RMS into an 8 ohm load.
It would be a lot easier for you if you just got the 12W3v3-4, and the JL Audio 500/1.
Or get the 12W3v2-D2... http://mobile.jlaudio.com/prod...id=12 a 300W DVC 2 ohm sub, [wire VCs is series for a 4 ohm "final load"] us the same amp, the sub is 3lb lighter. 94

BTW, I am no fan of JBL, although they used to make a pretty good sub, the JL subs outperform them in most, if not all, ways.

 

I would try an 8 inch w7 if your willing to go down from a 12. I have 1 12 w7 in a spec box and that thing is loouudd. But it also weighs like 80 pounds all together. I have heard the 8 and they are tight but can get much louder than most subs that people run around with. Idk just my opinion

 

well here is my setup

alpine CDA-9886

JL Components for the front ZR650 running with JL 300x4 amp

JL 12W3v2-D2 running with JL 500x1

I am waiting to see if I will need 6x9's but this should sound really good. I might put a hole in the rear deck and port it so its louder in the cabin.

 

If your not going to use the rear speakers, remove them, then you will not have to "put a hole in the rear deck". 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your not going to use the rear speakers, remove them, then you will not have to "put a hole in the rear deck". 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

indeed, I said that with the intentions that I may need to use them.