how cold is it where you live?

 

im in ky its between 30-50 in the morning

 

just from looking at that, what you are asking seems right, more fuel when its cold, and less when its warmer, try changing it a little bit, and see if it changes

 

so if i bring 10% to 5% i would be giving it less fuel in cold start

 

ya, but shouldnt you be looking more at the 32* and hotter?

 

yeah that where i figure i was going to make the change at, if it every get -24 im not taking my *** outside. if i make a change a 32* you think i need to change any of the otherones to? im thinking about taking it down to 0.0 what do you think?

 

You're looking at the wrong one. You want to change the coolant temp fuel correction, not the one based on intake air temperature.

Subtract 8% from everything 32 deg F and below under Water Temp Comp, Open Loop - Low Engine Load. If you need to, take out a few percent from 67 deg F.

Re-evaluate your LO cam base fuel map in that area when the engine is fully warm. It's probably too rich, and the correction factor is only making it worse.

 

ok so let me get this right ............from 32* and lower take out 8% and then datalog my low cam fuel table and take some fuel out of it also cause most likely its runing rich, do i have all that right?

What about timming do i have to do anything to my timing???

 

good god, its saying to add 34.4% fuel at 32* coolant temp

18.8% at 67* those are probably whats killing you. like ^^^ he said

so adjust the 4th box down #'s 4 and 5 from the left

 

So what do you guys reccomend, take 8% from 32* and down and start the car see what happens, and if im still running rich turn of the car and make take some more out and wait a few for the engine to cool down and try it again? is it ok to do real time changes???

 

My correction factor isn't much different than your's. The engine does about 15.0:1 up to 15.5:1 in between 1000 to 1500rpm in between 266mbar and 299mbar absolute when it's fully warm (175 to 180 deg F). Forgot to to mention that it idles down gradually from low 13's and 1500rpm to an idle of 1000rpm and 14.7:1 to 15.0:1.


I would tune the fuel base map first then adjust the coolant temp correction factor. If you change the correction factor first, then you're just making more work for yourself. Make sure you disable closed-loop oxygen sensor feedback when making adjustments to the base map.

You can make changes in real time. You're not going to hurt it. The worst that can happen is that you take too much out and it either lean misfires or it dies.

 

well i just made the changes and it seem like it idle fine now between 13-15a/f.

I took 8% off form 32* down how do i post my datalog??

and does anyone know why the hell my datalog keep freezing? i have to keep pulling the usb out and plug it back in all the time.

 

one more stupid thing.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My correction factor isn't much different than your's.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what is your set up???

 

so when i making changes to to my table i have to have the closed loop check or uncheck???

thanks again H-T im learning so much im like a kid in the candy shop right now lol

 

If the checkbox is checked, then closed-loop feedback is turned on. Unchecked means it is in open-loop.

Disable the oxygen sensor heater if the oxygen sensor is removed. Leave it enabled if the narrowband oxygen sensor is still in the exhaust stream.

Mine's is 1808cc with 81.25mm bore and 87.mm stroke, 11.5:1 compression and Skunk2 Pro2+ cams.

It seems like if you screw up the USB driver install the first time around, it's never right in the head. I really don't want to wipe the drive because I don't want to have to give up my ROMeditor software. Oh well, I guess there's always RE4....stupid $125 USB cable.

 

so when i make changes to the table do i leave it check or uncheck? and i have the o2 sensor still in so what should i do disable it or turn it back on?

 

Uncheck the first box while tuning the base map.

Verify the second box is checked if the narrowband oxygen sensor is still in the exhaust. If it's not checked, then put a check in it.

The fuel base map spits out a pulsewidth number and the correction factors (e.g. coolant temp, air temp, oxygen sensor) modify the base number. The concept is simple. You don't want the oxygen sensor to affect the fuel trim while tuning the base map because it will always try to pull it back to the preset voltage. If you take it out of the equation, then you get better representation of the fuel base map.

 

ok ill will try that, ill uncheck the first box,(close loop opp) and i still have my 02 sensor in my exhaust so ill leave that box checked.

so now i can start making changes to to the base map ie. idle I'll try this and see how it goes.

Another thing, do i mess with the fuel table first then mess with timing or other way around?? and how do i know if i have the timing right, so its not to advance or not to retarded?
The fuel i get kind of, just add if your a/f monitor is showing lean and subtract if its showing to rich.

Thanks again H-T members for helping me out, lets just say within the last year i have gone to four tuners and all have screwed me over, so i have decided to learn this **** myself with your help and a few books.