95 accord rpm surging from 0 to 3000! help!
okkkk it all starts with my old motor blowing up. so i bought a newer one with less miles, i dropped it in and put her alll back together. I reused my original intake manifold because there was nothing wrong with it. the original motor didnt really blow up it was just more worn out and wouldnt pass the emission test but other then that ran fine.
ok so everything is back in and as far as i can tell its all in right. now when i go to start the car it starts fine but immediatly jumps straight up to about 3000 rpm drops down to the point where it almost dies and then skyrockets back up. I made no adjustments on the intake, just plugged everything back in. I do have the check engine light on so i did the diagnostic thing on it and i guess its saying the intake air temp sensor is bad, but again it ran fine before i swapped motors...
Any help would be much appreciated! thanks!
ok so everything is back in and as far as i can tell its all in right. now when i go to start the car it starts fine but immediatly jumps straight up to about 3000 rpm drops down to the point where it almost dies and then skyrockets back up. I made no adjustments on the intake, just plugged everything back in. I do have the check engine light on so i did the diagnostic thing on it and i guess its saying the intake air temp sensor is bad, but again it ran fine before i swapped motors...
Any help would be much appreciated! thanks!
hmm ok, but would that really cause the motor to act THAT strange? im not ignoring your answer because i have no idea lol but it just seems like such a crazy symptom would be caused by something a little more complicated.
yes it would I have had both problems and they sdid the same thing...always surging higher up in rpms when it was colder....wait you also might have air in your coolent. Burp your system.
if you didnt already
if you didnt already
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I got the CD5 Jeebies! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like A> a vacume leak..or B> possable the Icv not being screwed tight</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes that also the fast idle thermal valve is a really calamine cause of this prob with hondas. I had both that and Icv not being screwed tight do it to mine on two different occasions. and even a master tech down at honda couldn't figure out the fitv prob. master tech my ***
yes that also the fast idle thermal valve is a really calamine cause of this prob with hondas. I had both that and Icv not being screwed tight do it to mine on two different occasions. and even a master tech down at honda couldn't figure out the fitv prob. master tech my ***
ok, now i found that i accidentally missed the wire to the intake air temp sensor so thats plugged in now and its still revving all crazy. I no longer have the check engine light on either. It did change a rpms a little though, it no longer has such a wide difference but still goes from about 1000 to 2,500 from the time it starts up. it never changes cold or warm.....
well if there is anyone out there that would still like to help.... I played around with a few things and have gotten the surging to now go from about 1000 to 2000 rpm...and it also idles just fine now for about 20 seconds when I first start the motor cold.....i live in alaska and the temp is hovering around 0 right now so when I go to start the car the block heater is plugged in if that would really do anything.....
other then the slight rpm shift I have been trying to bleed the damn cooling system and it just isnt working for nothing...which I dont understand because when the car is running and the rad cap is on it does build the pressure it should...could there be some kind of blockage somewhere?
ahhhh any help would be very nice...im really getting tired of this problem.....
other then the slight rpm shift I have been trying to bleed the damn cooling system and it just isnt working for nothing...which I dont understand because when the car is running and the rad cap is on it does build the pressure it should...could there be some kind of blockage somewhere?
ahhhh any help would be very nice...im really getting tired of this problem.....
have you pulled your throttle body, and inspected the fitv on the bottom? there is a plate on the back side that you can take off and adjust. the shoot-gun method of checking it is to take the intake off the throttle body. turn the car on then cover the bottom whole half way with your finger.
I took the fitv off and screwed that thing on there tight and took the iacv off and cleaned it also...Ill reinstall everything tomorrow and hope to god it fixes this problem...its really getting annoying and it dropped to -20 here so its pretty freakin cold working on a car outside!
haha!! well I cleaned the iacv and fitv and put the new t-stat in the car and now it idles great!! it idles a little bit low so i might back the fitv off a little bit because its freakin cold here and that will help it warm up faster but other then that im freakin happy as hell!! thanks guy for all the help!
You may have over tightened the FITV. It should idle around 1200-1400 when the engine is cold. Then gradually drop down to an operating idle of 750-800. Re-adjust the FIT and see if that does anything for you.
If your idle is still off you may have to adjsut your idle speed screw. Your car should have a normal operating temperature idle of 750-800 rpm.
If your idle is still off you may have to adjsut your idle speed screw. Your car should have a normal operating temperature idle of 750-800 rpm.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GhostAccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You may have over tightened the FITV. It should idle around 1200-1400 when the engine is cold. Then gradually drop down to an operating idle of 750-800. Re-adjust the FIT and see if that does anything for you.
If your idle is still off you may have to adjsut your idle speed screw. Your car should have a normal operating temperature idle of 750-800 rpm.</TD></TR></TABLE> yep sir
If your idle is still off you may have to adjsut your idle speed screw. Your car should have a normal operating temperature idle of 750-800 rpm.</TD></TR></TABLE> yep sir
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