Ight well this is getting on my nerves and I want to fix it. When I come to a stop light it will hold the idle good for a little bit then it will slow start bouncing between 900 and 500. I have a new IACV. Any other ideas what it could be?

Well I'm pretty sure its the tps now. Its reading like 1.9 at closed and 6.4 at wot. I tried 2 different tps's and they both read the same. What could cause it to be so high?

EDIT: Well guys I finally got my tps sensor right. But now it seems I have a vacuum leak somewhere by the throttle body.( I know its there bc its the only thing I messed with) I used carb cleaner and I couldn't find it. The idling is bouncing between 1000 and 1500. Is there something else that I can use to find the vacuum leak?


Modified by skata89 at 10:42 PM 12/26/2007


Modified by skata89 at 10:40 PM 12/30/2007

 

Stock motor?? try resetting the ECU?

 

check for vac leaks yet?

 

Its got a intake and exhaust. Already tried reseting the ecu. How exactly do you find a vac leak?

 

carb cleaner....spray it around the vac hoses......be sure that you dont have an open wire....it might go kaboom

 

could be bubbles in the coolant, vacuum leak, carbon built up in the iac or throttle body, etc.

 

How would bubbles in the coolant cause the idle?jw and how would you remove them?

Any other ideas?

 

That actually happened to my accord.
Idle kept fluctuating, turned out the radiator was low. I topped it off with antifreeze and the loopy idle stopped.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skata89 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How would bubbles in the coolant cause the idle?jw and how would you remove them?

Any other ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>

fast idle thermo valve and iac rely off coolant to operate correctly. If your system is not blked properly, or you have lost coolant, idle can be funny at times.

 

Check the IAC valve on the back out the intake manifold.

 

The IAC valve was replaced. Thats what I thought it was at first but it wanst.

How do you get the bubbles the air out?

 

open the rad (when it's cool obviously) and then top it up if it seems low.

start the car and let the fan come on at least twice. At least that's what I seem to recall the procedure being.

I just squeeze the rad hoses as the car is warming up and call it good because I don't have fans on my car...(long story) and so far that's been ok.

Older hondas have bleeder screws right near the cyl. head - that sometimes like to snap off cuz they're older...

My loping idle was caused by a bent valve... so that's something else you might consider - but even as I lost 100psi compared to a full 180psi in the 3 other cylinders, it didn't jump around too much. I was also alerted by a check engine light though...

 

K im going to give that a try today. Well see if it helps.

 

Nope it didnt solve it. But what I did notice is that it idled fine until it go to operating temperature. Then it started fluctuating like 200 rpms. Any other ideas?

 

Ight Ive been searching some and came across this.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=291032

I think that may be my problem because I checked it at closed throttle and its at .37 , he then says to rotate the TPS untill desired voltage is met. How do you rotate the TPS?

 

nvm..figured out the tps problem.


Modified by skata89 at 5:53 PM 12/14/2007

 

Well im pretty sure its the TPS but heres the problem. At closed throttle its 1.9 and at WOT its 6.4. I cant lower it any lower the 1.9, and I tried a different TPS. Any ideas on how to lower it to where its suppose to be at&gt;???

 

Bump need some help on this.

And now when I rev up and let off the gas itll drop down to 1500 then go back up to 2000 and then drop back down. Any ideas....

 

bump please help me figure this damn thing out.

 

need help..

 

well obviously its a voltage problem. the ecu sends out a reference 5v to the tps and depending on where the throttle position the 5v goes through a resistor and tells the ecu where the throttle position is at. sounds like a bad ecu?

 

i believe closed throttle is supposed to be 0.5V and WOT is 4.5V, get a hold of the oem service manual and go through the diagnostic procedure/flowchart. It will point you right at your problem. Also, I would think that if the ecu sees that there is 6.4V at WOT it would throw a code for TPS Circuit High Voltage. Not sure about which P-Code that is. Do you have any cel's?

 

No cels. I know its soppose to be .45 and 4.5. I just cant figure out how/why its so high.

 

are you supplying TPS with +12V to test it? If so it's a big no no. (nothing will happen to the TPS). It's your ECU that supplies 5V (not 12V) so you need to back probe TPS while getting the signal from the ECU.


HTH

 

all I did was turn the car to on position and check the readings.