My rotors and pads are old and warped so a new set is in order.
I'm looking to replace all rotors and pads (front and back?)

What brands should I be looking at for street/track/daily driving?
Slotted..Drilled... Blank?

I've tried to search and all that come up are debates and not actual info.

 

i ordered brembo blanks with pbr pads from 88rotors. bought front and rear with pads for a total of $198 free shipping.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1408849

 

Do you really need the back? They don't really wear out that fast. Check to make sure. Brembo blanks are good. However, Autozone Duralast is just as good, and NO WAIT TIME since you can just pick them up at your local dealership. Plus, there is a 2-year warranty with them, which means any warpage that may happen (I've never had one warp, even when auto-x'ing) you can return it for a new one. They've been tracked and tested by numerous ITR owners and all have nothing but good to say about them.

As far as pads, I like Axxis Ultimates for street/auto-x.

 

like p nut says, duralast is good. my friend uses brembo blanks on his teg, and he says the only downside is the wait for shipping, he used slotted ones before, but says there's not much difference.

 

Do you guys change them yourselves? I'm considering doing this but it there's a bit more than the haynes manual says, it might have to be left to my mechanic.

 

ive been using autozone duralast rotors and pads, ive been using autozone pads and rotors with success for the last 3 yrs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slacks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you guys change them yourselves? I'm considering doing this but it there's a bit more than the haynes manual says, it might have to be left to my mechanic. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Pretty simple job. You might need an impact wrench to get that stupid little screw off of the rotor (and when you put the new rotor on, do not replace that dumb screw. Not necessary). Other than that, pretty simple, if you've done a brake job before. Should be a write-up in the FAQ's.

 

i suggest you buy any cheap blank rotor you can find. they will not "warp" unless you have a cheap pad. ive used valuecraft and aimco rotors on the track with no problems at all. ($18f + $16r) x 2

you should go with hawk hp+ pads ($80) in the front and autozone durlast pads ($23) in the rear. you get a lifetime warranty on duralast pads just as long as its not worn to the metal.

then youll need to buy the Sil-Glide caliper grease ($1) to lube the caliper slide pins. they come in ketchup size packets.

lastly you need to flush/bleed your brake fluid. depending on your needs you could go for castrol gt lma ($6) or Ate super blue ($12).


Modified by ejprimo at 12:54 PM 12/10/2007

 

i have brembo blanks and axxis in the fronts and stock drums and stock shoes in the back.
axxis pads have an excellent stopping power (much better than stock) but have a lot of brake dust.
and yes you can change out the rotors and pads yourself. drums are a little more involved.
If you can take something apart and put it back, then you should be fine.