which would you run for a mostly street driven weekend car, that sees HPDE's and autox and im trying to get into some nasa stuff with.

i was leaning towards the rbf600 but it says it needs to be changed often due to the moisture absorption, something i dont really want to do while it is still a street car...

what are your opinions?

 

DOT 5.1 is silicone based. I wouldn't use that.

Flush once at the beginning of the season, once again halfway through and bleed before each HPDE. I use RBF600 and see no reason to switch to anything else. If I were to switch though, I'd look at the NEO Gen 610.

 

If it's a street car, ATE Super Blue, no doubt.

 

well its not a dedicated street car. ive run ate in my other cars (non hondas) and it is good, just heard good things about the rbf for a semi tracked car.

actually what aout that new project mu stuff?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DOT 5.1 is silicone based. I wouldn't use that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not true. You're thinking of DOT 5. DOT 5 is silicone-based, and shouldn't be mixed with DOT 3, DOT 4, or DOT 5.1 fluids, all of which are non-SBBF (non-silicone-based brake fluid). DOT 5.1 has the same boiling points as DOT 5 but is non-SBBF.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Flush once at the beginning of the season, once again halfway through and bleed before each HPDE. I use RBF600 and see no reason to switch to anything else. If I were to switch though, I'd look at the NEO Gen 610.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I flush once at the start of the season with RBF 600, and I don't bleed or flush after that unless I encounter braking problems. And that's never happened.

You can find the most recent list of brake fluid boiling points and prices here.

 

RBF600 is extremely hygroscopic, it's amazing that you guys can run that stuff for a season. I had to change it out every weekend.

Castrol solved all my fade problems and moisture doesn't have a huge effect on it. Look at the wet boiling point...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


You can find the most recent list of brake fluid boiling points and prices here.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i checked that out last night, but everyone has their own opinions, im a newb to racing lol i just need some concrete advice haha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris y0! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">RBF600 is extremely hygroscopic</TD></TR></TABLE>

Absolutely NOT TRUE. I've used it over an entire season (8-10 events over 7 months) and had it tested. (Acura of Brookfield has one of those devices that tests the actual boiling point of the fluid.) The boiling point at the end of the season isn't all that much less than it is at the beginning of the season (fresh out of the bottle), only about 30-40 degrees less or so as I recall, which isn't much. That means that the boiling point of the RBF 600 at the end of the season is still higher than fluids like ATE and Ford Heavy Duty straight out of a newly-opened bottle.

Granted, Castrol SRF is less hygroscopic, but it's also extremely expensive. It's a good fluid for a rarely-driven garage queen where you want high boiling points but you'd rather not change the fluid every 6-12 months. But if you're like most of us and you're flushing fluid within six months of any track event, you may as well use the Motul RBF600 and save your money.

I don't know where your information came from, but you should really get some actual data. I suggest you get one of those devices that tests brake fluid boiling points - it's a device with two probes that you stick into the fluid in the reservoir and they actually boil it - and look at the actual boiling points of your fluid. If mine goes down 30-40 degrees in a climate that's more humid than yours, I bet you'll find that yours doesn't go down much at all. Heck, using Motul RBF600, you'll save enough on brake fluid to pay for one of those testing devices (which I think run $100-300).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by killerpenguin21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah i checked that out last night, but everyone has their own opinions, im a newb to racing lol i just need some concrete advice haha </TD></TR></TABLE>

Boiling point and price pretty much tell all. Dry boiling point tells you how resistant the brake fluid is to boiling when it's straight out of the bottle. Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, lowering the boiling point, but as noted above, if you're only tracking the car with fluid that has been flushed in the previous 6-8 months, it's still going to be pretty close to its dry boiling point. Wet boiling point tells you how low the boiling point becomes if the brake fluid sits in the car for a long period of time (i.e. several years).

I use the Motul RBF600 because it's relatively inexpensive (compared to some) and readily available (lots of the shops carrying track equipment carry it). I've been using it in both track cars for 8-12 events per year for the past 15 years and I've never boiled the fluid. Good stuff.

 

good to know man thanks for the great info. i can get the rbf600 for about 10 bucks a bottle im guessing it takes 2-3 bottles to flush and fill the entire system?

im still curious about that new project mu stuff tho since its dry boiling point is so high, but cant find any reviews or actual experience with it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by killerpenguin21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good to know man thanks for the great info. i can get the rbf600 for about 10 bucks a bottle im guessing it takes 2-3 bottles to flush and fill the entire system?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Around here it's more like 15 bucks for 1/2 liter bottle. Two bottles is usually all I need on either car.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by killerpenguin21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im still curious about that new project mu stuff tho since its dry boiling point is so high, but cant find any reviews or actual experience with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't know anything about it. It's a little bit pricy, but I'd try it if I could buy it around here.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Around here it's more like 15 bucks for 1/2 liter bottle. Two bottles is usually all I need on either car.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

oops my fault it was 10 for the 5.1. 15 for the 600. looks like ill just get the 600. hopefully it pairs well with my hps+ race pads.

 

I ran the ate super blue for 1 summer(2 track day per month) and never encounter any problem, i have recently swap it for the rbf600 because i had a brake fluid leak and i could get my hand on the super blue, so far, i haven't have any problem with both.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Absolutely NOT TRUE. I've used it over an entire season (8-10 events over 7 months) and had it tested. (Acura of Brookfield has one of those devices that tests the actual boiling point of the fluid.) The boiling point at the end of the season isn't all that much less than it is at the beginning of the season (fresh out of the bottle), only about 30-40 degrees less or so as I recall, which isn't much. That means that the boiling point of the RBF 600 at the end of the season is still higher than fluids like ATE and Ford Heavy Duty straight out of a newly-opened bottle.

Granted, Castrol SRF is less hygroscopic, but it's also extremely expensive. It's a good fluid for a rarely-driven garage queen where you want high boiling points but you'd rather not change the fluid every 6-12 months. But if you're like most of us and you're flushing fluid within six months of any track event, you may as well use the Motul RBF600 and save your money.

I don't know where your information came from, but you should really get some actual data. I suggest you get one of those devices that tests brake fluid boiling points - it's a device with two probes that you stick into the fluid in the reservoir and they actually boil it - and look at the actual boiling points of your fluid. If mine goes down 30-40 degrees in a climate that's more humid than yours, I bet you'll find that yours doesn't go down much at all. Heck, using Motul RBF600, you'll save enough on brake fluid to pay for one of those testing devices (which I think run $100-300).
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I get my information from the dark brown Motul that pours out of my bleeders after being in the system 2-3 weeks at most between track use. I also get plenty of information when my lever goes all the way down to my fingers if I go out there without fresh (night before) Motul.

I don't need to spend $300 on a tester or go have somebody tell me what exactly my wet boiling point is. All I know is that with SRF I can leave that **** in there for months and it's fine. I can't with Motul.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris y0! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I get my information from the dark brown Motul that pours out of my bleeders after being in the system 2-3 weeks at most between track use. I also get plenty of information when my lever goes all the way down to my fingers if I go out there without fresh (night before) Motul.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds to me like something was wrong with your car at the time you were using Motul. Or maybe you need some brake cooling ducts because there's not enough cooling airflow to your brakes. I know dozens of people who use Motul on their track cars and never have those problems.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris y0! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I get my information from the dark brown Motul that pours out of my bleeders after being in the system 2-3 weeks at most between track use. I also get plenty of information when my lever goes all the way down to my fingers if I go out there without fresh (night before) Motul.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

from that and his avatar, it sounds like his is in a bike, which might be alittel different circumstances?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by killerpenguin21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

from that and his avatar, it sounds like his is in a bike, which might be alittel different circumstances?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've had brake problems with both, both times SRF solved them. Figured I could run Motul in the bike because of lower temps. I was wrong.