ok I have a 92 teg with a b18c1 swap. recently i changed my tranny and things began to wrong it seems like.....I'm getting a cell code 16 witch is the injectors, i've checked wiring and seems fine, i know my injectors are good cuz i just actully replaced them 2 times! i'f i try to drive my car but it BOGGS out bad in every gear like if it has some kind of a governer at around 3200 rpm's. I've tried changing injectors, checked all the wiring, changed distributor cap. now i'm wondering if the injector code is causing this or something else? I"m running a P72 ECU and if i throw my Stock ls one it goes away but it starts throwing map cel and also 41!!! has any one else ran into this problem or know of anyone who has gone throgh something similar?.. i dont know what it could be anymore i've searched and found nothing close this,....SOME ONE PLEASE HELP ME!!!

 

good luck dude.

last time i had issues with bogging was due to the tps. it bogged like hell too but if when you switch ecu's and nothing happens, then I really wouldn't know where to begin.

 

well i tried the 92 LS ecu i'm gonna see if i can try my cousins Chipped 28 later today, another thing, when i pulled that cover off the ecu it kinda seems as if their was water around it, i'm wondering if water leaked and ran down the wires i have going into the firewall for Vtec and knock.,...would my injector code maybe cause the bogging?

 

ok i i fixed the main problem it was having with the cut out at 3500 rpms, i tried out my cousins P28 chipped ecu and it still has a slight bogg at around 2300 rpms but after that the its fine at 3500 and on...could this be a map sensor? its not throwing it but i did eliminate most vacumes and the two round looking like things on my fire wall i'm trying to attach a picture,....but the White oval is the two round things i emliminated, the yellow is the vacume for my FPR to the mainfold and the blue one is the canister of witch i pluged one hose..would eliminating those maybe cause it to some what bogg?

 

dude if you hook the ls ecu and the p28 ecu up and it runs fine then it sounds like to me its your ecu, especially if there is water in the case...i suggest you get a new p72..or chipped p28 whichever you can find cheaper

 

yeah i'm going to i'm look at one right now i'm trying to just convince my cousin to sell me one of his but i'll see...but since now i'm able to get passed the 3000 rpms what could be causing it to bogg between 1500 - 3000 rpm's?? its a slight bogg not so bad but it does hold back!!!!!

 

a car usually bogs when its running rich

 

that could all be the ecu being messed up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RCjdmDA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok i i fixed the main problem it was having with the cut out at 3500 rpms, i tried out my cousins P28 chipped ecu and it still has a slight bogg at around 2300 rpms but after that the its fine at 3500 and on...could this be a map sensor? its not throwing it but i did eliminate most vacumes and the two round looking like things on my fire wall i'm trying to attach a picture,....but the White oval is the two round things i emliminated, the yellow is the vacume for my FPR to the mainfold and the blue one is the canister of witch i pluged one hose..would eliminating those maybe cause it to some what bogg?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

the two thing on the firewall that your circled were just for emissions, I took mine off a long time ago. Sounds like you need to get an ECU chipped and tuned

 

i had the same problem when i swappd a b16 head on my b18b. cel 16 and 41. i found out that i wasnt gettin any voltage on #4 injectors so i just ran a wire straight to the ecu and the cel light went away. cel 41 i just needed a new one cuhz i was running so rich so it broke. purchase a new one and fixed it. oh ya for bogging low or high rpm you probably need to change your dizzy and fuel filter.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SDP190416 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for bogging low or high rpm you probably need to change your dizzy and fuel filter. </TD></TR></TABLE>

seriously? are you sure? I have a new distributor and basically new fuel filter and pump and my car bogs in the low rpms.

I know that this happens becuase I'm running cold burning plugs and because my car is running rich. I'm just waiting till spring to tune my jrsc gsr...so that's why my car bogs..but its not all that bad.

 

well i got a new distributor, fuel filter, injectors, i'm running my cuzs P28 w/spoon chip. i'm sure my P72 is what made my car seem like it had a major fuel cut out so i think thats seen its last days!, I do let my car warm up for atleast 8 min and it starts to bogg around 1700-3500 but never boggs after that but i got up on it for the very first time last night and the bogging KINDA went away its not major no more but still boggs,..i didnt feel the car as strong as i thought it would be since last time i was running a LS tranny now i have a b16 tranny, i was goin on a slow roll in 2nd went all the way to 4th and topped it out at 105 almost 110... i do feel it has a lag and its holding it back from that little bogg. It smells like gas some what i'm running about 45 psi well it goes up that much when i pull my hose off the FPR

 

check your timing.

 

A car will act the same if it is lean.. rich and lean will have the same symptoms.. check your timing and fuel pump pressure

 

My car was bogging not too long ago and it was only the spark plugs
Could be different in your situation though

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mcdc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My car was bogging not too long ago and it was only the spark plugs
Could be different in your situation though</TD></TR></TABLE>

mine to, and don't set your timing at night with little to no light, we thought it was at base 16, ended up being 9 talk about bogging

 

LOL^^

 

it is the code 41 you O2 sensor is malfunctioning when o2 sensors fail the fail lean so the ecu will automatically go rich. it is like a failsafe to prevent ambient tempatures inside the combustion chambers. you need to check that rear o2 sensor. that is why you keep smelling gas.

 

Well timing looks good but yet one of the arrows seems to be Slight at an angle compared to the other being straight up i mean not noticable unless you stare at it for a lil bit it looks good to the naked eye but i'll check that tonight just incase....THANKS