fogging engine
i fogged my engine since i will be storing it for winter and after wards cranked the engine by hand counter clock wise for like 30 seconds. Should the crank be at a certain position or can where ever i left it be fine?
its like wd-40 basically you spray it in your cylinders and move the crank by hand so it can apply on your cylinder walls and basically helps prevent any rust from forming when your storing your car for long periods. Im storing mine for 3 months but im ****.
oh oh i see.
well i have delt with many honda motors before and i'm not saying this is the best method but this is how i was doing it when i store motors over long period of time. pretty much i just leave it there. haha. to be honest, somehow when we take it out of storage and crank, it starts right up and runs like a champ. compression is still up to par and everythign runs smooth. never had a problem.
but sorry i can't help you much on your problem because i was unsure of the "fogging" method myself. just wanted to post and learn more about this.
longest motor i stored was a d15b. about 140k on it. left it in my garage for about 3 and a half years. pull it out one day and put it on a car, ran perfect. start up on 1st crank. amazing what hondas can do.
well i have delt with many honda motors before and i'm not saying this is the best method but this is how i was doing it when i store motors over long period of time. pretty much i just leave it there. haha. to be honest, somehow when we take it out of storage and crank, it starts right up and runs like a champ. compression is still up to par and everythign runs smooth. never had a problem.
but sorry i can't help you much on your problem because i was unsure of the "fogging" method myself. just wanted to post and learn more about this.

longest motor i stored was a d15b. about 140k on it. left it in my garage for about 3 and a half years. pull it out one day and put it on a car, ran perfect. start up on 1st crank. amazing what hondas can do.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bulli Kid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats worse. IMo</TD></TR></TABLE>
In fact it is not.
In fact it is not.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bulli Kid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why is that?
have you ever stored cars before?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have a car in storage currently, I keep a trickle charger on it and it gets run for 20 or soo minutes every friday or saturday. My vehicle has been in storage in and out since the motor got finished (about a year and a half) and it runs like a champ.
have you ever stored cars before?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have a car in storage currently, I keep a trickle charger on it and it gets run for 20 or soo minutes every friday or saturday. My vehicle has been in storage in and out since the motor got finished (about a year and a half) and it runs like a champ.
ok. Trickle charger is a good idea. mine is coming in tomorrow. But if you start the car without running (driving it) for a while all you do is built up condensation in the engine. its a good idea to take it on a long drive about 30 mins every month. Sooner if possible is better.
i was planing on starting the car every week but why? there is no point to it.
i got a trickle charger so the battery wont die on my anyway. fogging oil in cylinders so no rust can form. Fresh oil with no oxidation or fuel dissolution. Plastic cover under car acting as a moisture barrier. Moth ***** for insects. Still have to get silica packs to absorb moisture from inside the car. I covered intake/exhaust so no insects will crawl up in there. and i will just lift the car to rotate the tires every month to avoid flat spots.
Basically its like this. the less you start it the less wear you will have on valvetrain.
i was planing on starting the car every week but why? there is no point to it.
i got a trickle charger so the battery wont die on my anyway. fogging oil in cylinders so no rust can form. Fresh oil with no oxidation or fuel dissolution. Plastic cover under car acting as a moisture barrier. Moth ***** for insects. Still have to get silica packs to absorb moisture from inside the car. I covered intake/exhaust so no insects will crawl up in there. and i will just lift the car to rotate the tires every month to avoid flat spots.
Basically its like this. the less you start it the less wear you will have on valvetrain.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bulli Kid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Basically its like this. the less you start it the less wear you will have on valvetrain.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im aware of this.
Im aware of this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bulli Kid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">.. ok then why do you still insist on starting it?</TD></TR></TABLE>because it is an engine. Any damage that would be done by a routine startup would be neglible compared with a motor that has been sitting dry for months on end being started.
so, what fogging oil did you use?
I've used Seafoam deep creep before, I saw amsoil makes some fogging oil too
I've done this on motors in storage also, not just running cars. I think it's a good idea
I've used Seafoam deep creep before, I saw amsoil makes some fogging oil too
I've done this on motors in storage also, not just running cars. I think it's a good idea
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