OK.. grab a then come back an read this

i have come to bit of a fork in the road in terms of my B18cr MOTO!

Heres the situation.. My current Engine has 175,000km on it!!! yes thats right, BUT wait it makes 133kw at the wheels, doesnt use any oil what so EVeR! oil goes in clean an out clean after 5,000km.. and it runs mint and havnt had any issues over the last year of ownership! i got the car for 9k NZ due to havin 158,000 km at the time. so ive been enjoying it an hasnt missed a beat!! its currently running I/H/E and vafc2.

here is where things could get OUT OF CONTROL!!!?

My best friend has a serious EG civic weapon that has won over 20 trophies at shows etc and has a pretty good Engine that he wants to sell me to make way for a JDM K20 that hes got sponsorship to build an swap in.

here are the specs for the B18cr

Spec is

B18CR
TypeR crank
81.5mm CP piston
Static compression 12.1 area
Crower Rods " TI " ! ! ! !
Cometic thin head gasket
ARP Head stud kit
TypeR Sump with baffle plate
Knife edge and balanced B18CR crankshaft.
Single crank pulley
Top Block Brace
have balance flywheel and (3 puk clutch -> unsure if correct) to go with it


Was a brand new OEM B18C P72 cylinder head.
Huge Port polish and prepped with new valve guides
chamber been polished
Oversize stainless valves
Crane Valve springs, Ti Retainer.
Crane Stage 3 camshafts
Skunk 2 Cam Gears
All new Seals

Done less then 3000ks for sure only been driving on dyno, never really been trashed on the road or circuit

Can sell it:

with twm iTB and all the bits to go with (dont really want to spend extra 1000k + for quads)
OR

skunk intake with enlarge tb or spoon tb


Highest Power run on pump gas with old exhaust setup made 155+kw
560nm of torque on roller dyno
Still climbin at 9500rpms
LimiteR at 10000rpm (safe apparently! )

Makes same power with ITB or normal intake mainfold with mugen intake
but abit more torque and mid range with the itb

Bottom end is build to rev ( FAST ! ! ! ) and lots of mid range instead of
peak power

All build and run in ready to go . . . . . . .

Ok so now this price tag is around the 6.5k mark (for me) cost around 12k to build, and i could probably get around 2k for my engine

im asking this as i think its a good opportunity and im unsure how much longer before my engine will need a rebuild anyway?!

should i take the plunge now or should i rebuild my engine when the time comes? im quite happy with the power its making at the moment 133kw but havin a pretty serious built engine would be most peoples dream especially for half the price it cost to build it.

I would have to get maby 2-3k loan from the bank, thats the only thing thats worrying me.. i have a student loan 12k or so from 4 years but otherwise ive got money in the bank an an income of 550 a week, live at home, dont pay board etc .. i know its only small loan but yea i dont like to be in too much debt. the parents will also not support my rational spending of 6k+ on a motor

is always good to hear others thoughts.. just thought id throw that up there an sorta get it off my chest, maby someone can push me in the right direction.

thanks for reading.. enjoy

 

your kidding right???

 

^ Agreed.

 

ok i dont get it..
btw thats NZ currency

1.00 USD = 1.30735 NZD

 

thats a pretty sick eg, got any more pics of it? whats with the plug wires? i see nothing running to the distributor. everything looks so minty clean in the 3rd pic, like its all brand new.

 

Are you sure that's 560 Nm torque? That's almost 413 lb/ft.

I'm not a physicist, but 413 lb/ft ~ 614.611709 kg/m and converting kg/m to ft/lb is about 4445.5 ft/lb I think???
http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/converter.htm

The HP seems about right! Maybe?

dam, i'm just getting too technical! the numbers got to me!!!


Modified by IntegraTionR at 9:33 PM 11/30/2007


Modified by IntegraTionR at 9:35 PM 11/30/2007

 

uhhh???

 

In U.S. we talk HP not KW

 

http://www.nagaidenshi.co.jp/I...shtml
It is direct ignition from Ultra Japan, I never try it on my own car tho...no idea how good they are...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraTionR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you sure that's 560 Nm torque? That's almost 413 lb/ft???
http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/converter.htm

The HP seems about right! Maybe?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I just found out that too....413lb/ft.....lol

 

The car looks great though! By the way, would you have a front picture of this car?

 

here are some dated pics as you can see its changed a tiny bit, wheel, mirror, seat.. has js racing wing to come still.. maby feature in super street sooon!!

http://www.jtuned.com/forums/s...civic

HP.. doesnt make sense to me anymore, its not jay de em enough yo.. sorry guys.. you can convert yourself i think its 1 kw = 1.3hp?

 

I'm not bashing on you buddy! I'm just saying that the numbers given are a bit off if you do the math!

If you like it, then you like it! I like how the car looks honestly, I'm still trying to figure out how he got that huge pvc piping from the front air dam to the ITB's. Nicely built.
HP seems low for a grandiosely built engine! But that's just me!

If you think its a good deal, go for it if its not too much of trouble for you.

I personally wish I had the money now to get myself a nice daily beater since I built mine. But if thief is not an issue where you live, then its up to you! The more work put in, expect to give equally amount of care! Thats just how I see it!

 

even that 4" PVC piping looks good in that bay! the thing looks beast!

just as it's been said, though, i'm not too sure about those numbers either. double check...

 

ok i dont really know much about dyno's, but i think your meant to divide that tourqe by some other factor.. but i cant remember what/how, ill ask an work it out

 

^ Same thing that ran through my mind... If it were enclosed, then yeah, but as it's designed now, it MIGHT help a little bit.

 

What's up with the heat shield, too? Seems like it would just be restricting the airflow into the ITB's. And there is really no heat to suck in back there anyways.

Also, not sure I'd go into debt for a motor unless I really needed it for transportation.

 

what is the box for on the lower right, in the last pic. It is the one with 2 stainless hoses going to the valve cover..

also for a motor revs to 10000 possibly, what type of header is that? it looks like a polished OEM type r but I can't tell.. the radiator is pretty thick so i doubt that there is much room in there for a long tube header.

 

its not stock header man.. somethin like toda 4&gt;1? that box is oil catch can..

 

Todd00- might not be a heatshield but maybe put there to direct air flow from that pvc to all 4 itbs instead of just the first 2?? i could be thinking too hard though. looks somewhat restricting to me aswell.

 

what are the specs on the ce28n's on your buddy's car?

 

um 17x7 offsett 43 or close.. cant run smaller due to the huge wilwood callipers on the front

 

Come on mate just buy the engine it will cost you more to build your own one

 

WoW, Great numbers