Hello, my first post, but i've been reading here for a sometime...

Well my cheap 96 accord finally failed me - after only 157k mi too . After driving from murfressboro to memphis for thanksgiving, I noticed the following night that the trans didn't grab right away when shifting from reverse to drive. I thought to my self 'maybe its just cold' and kept going. Well on the drive i noticed that it shifted really slow and soft (for whatever reason, it used to shift REAL hard for an auto). By slow i mean that the rpms come up, but it doesn't shift... after almost a full 2 sec it will shift, but it grabs kinda funny - almost like clutch chatter on a race clutch.

So the next day i changed the ATF (there is no 'serviceable' filter), thinking there might be a clog somewhere b/c while there was plenty of fluid, it looked more like engine oil than ATF (when i bought it about 25k mi ago it looked brand new). Well, no change. I messed with it a bit and it seems like it slips in all the gears (so not a clutch pack i guess). If i floor it from a stop the rpms feel like they go up much quicker than the car is accelerating and they went strait past the normal shift point and into the redline. :shock: Also while i'm driving if i kinda stab at the throttle while i'm at a higher rpm (around where vtec engages) the rpms will shoot up almost like i'm in neutral.

I was planning on driving it back to murfreesboro and then changing the ATF again since just draining the tranny doesn't get the fluid out of the lines, tq converter, ect. But it seems that it might be too far gone so i parked it and took my sister's car to school (she's pissed).

So, any suggestions? I'd do it myself, but i'm not sure what's wrong. I'd sell it before it gets bad enough for a noob to realize it, but thats just wrong. I'd take it too a shop, but i think it'll be more than i want/care to pay since (car price: 500 + car parts: 600) - insurance money from someone backing into me: 1000 = a $100 car.

sorry for the long post, thanks for any help.

-matt

 

Snag a used transmission (check out FS thread up top) and drop it in

Done

 

haven't seen in autos in that thread, guess i'll just have to wait till i can post a WTB.

anyone know of any other good sourses for trannies?

thanks
-matt

 

anyone??

 

Does your engine rev really high when you are accellerating out of a turn before it finds a gear? That's what my 97 Accord SE has been doing and the mechanic said it was normal, but I don't think so. I don't remember this happening when it was new. Maybe it just needs a fluid change....?

 

Your solenoids might be going bad, get those checked too.

 

solenoids? I'm not familiar with auto trannies, could that cause it to slip?

rloden - yeah, thats how it started.

I've found a few A/T's from car-part.com for around $500 - only problem is you never really know their history. Hope i get lucky...

 

Do you have any CEL on?
I found out the hard way a few months ago about these trannies. A lot of problems when they get older. If your tranny fluid is black, it's probably too late to save it. There must be a lot of clutch material in it from the clutch packs, torque converter or both. Your solenoids may have started the problem, so it's probably to late to even bother trying those.

Good luck finding a used good one, at least get some kind of warranty with though. I've found quite a few, but the question is "How long will this one last?".

In the mean time, you can drain the fluid, clean the drain plug, remove and clean the sensors from the pass side (also magnets), remove the solenoids and check the screens for clogs, refill it and see what happens.

 

I've also got the same problem. The thing is, mine just started doing it once it got cold outside. When it was warmer it didn't slip at all. It slips in every gear, so I didn't think it would be a clutch pack. My friend's Accord has 220k on it and he's never had a problem with it, so I don't see how at 160k mine could be going bad like this already.

So my options for now are -

Drain fluid amd refill(or flush if I can find a Honda ATF machine)
Clean the drain plug
Remove sensors and magnets and clean
Remove solenoids and clean out the screens

The only thing is I have a feeling that since it is slipping it's already too late and that the clutch packs are going to be too damaged to bother. Can these trannies be rebuilt?

 

It sounds like you burned up your fluid too, according to your description.

I would look around for a used trans man.

 

In my searches to help me diagnose my tranny, I read something about a thermostat problem could cause shifting problems. If everything is good with your cooling system, normal gauge reading etc, then I would try a fluid change. This is my first Accord, so I don't know where the gauge should be normally, mine is below the halfway mark. NEVER flush the tranny, just drain and refill.

Does it slip no matter how long you drive the car, or will it get better when the fluid gets up to temp. Check the level of the fluid when it's completely warmed up (like after an hour drive). If it gets better when fully warmed up, you may just need alittle more fluid.

Mine shifts alittle hard when it's first driven in the cold, but gets better when it warms up. I need to do a drain/refill anyway.

 

rebuild or replace it as you already trashed the unit

 

Where do they sell rebuild kits for our trannies? I can take mine out by myself, but I wasn't sure where I could buy a rebuild kit to fix it.

 

any parts store or the honda dealer. you need some specialized tool to rebuild a trans and a new torque converter.

 

Did you look into having the belts adjusted? I know that slipping belts can cause trannies to slip, that's what your problem is sounding like to me since all the gears are still 'there'.

 

That's fine, I have access to all the special tools at work since I work at a dealership. I just wasn't sure if there was a rebuild kit available anywhere. Before I tear it apart to rebuild it I'm going to try and flush the system and clean all the components and see about replacing the lock up solenoid before I jump into rebuilding it. I also will probably be installing a tranny cooler.

 

I have a similar problem - when cold, the transmission doesn't exactly slip, but kind of gets stuck in between shifts. It's also usually only higher engine loads (accelerating up to freeway speeds, non-speed-racer style). It'll go up to 3000-3200 in second, wing up an extra 500-700 rpm for a half second and shift to third, etc. Also happens when it downshifts from fourth to third on a highway pass (BRAAAAHbuhhhh) The shifts themselves feel positive, and I changed the fluid first a year ago and then maybe 3-4 months ago. It'll shift fine when it's warm, even if it's been sitting for an hour or two. Fluid is still cherry red and topped up. What could this be? Any work that could be done easily with the trans still in the car? (I have just a basic friend's-garage-and-a-floorjack type of setup)

 

looks like your trans is slipping big time...you should look into a rebuild or buying a used tranny..g/l

 

When looking for a used tranny, there really isn't a good way to check them is there? Are there places that sell used trannys that have been rebuilt? I am in the same boat as them.

 

Your transmission has undoubtedly burnt a clutch. If you have access to the tools, all you will need to replace are the affected clutch disks / plates and the internal strainer. Make sure to destake the shaft nuts so you don't strip out the threads. Otherwise you'll have to replace a shaft as well - not cheap.

Exfoliated clutch fibers will also make their way into your valve bodies, especially if your strainer has ruptured. You will need to disassemble the valve bodies and remove the valves. Flush out the valve body bores and hydraulic circuits really well and re-assemble them. Also flush out the hydraulic circuitry in the torque converter case, then clean your separator plates. Make sure not to introduce new contamination into the valve bodies ANYWHERE. Honda maintains a super tight tolerance on their valves, so even a hair or lint can cause the valve to hang up.

While you've got the torque converter by itself, stand it up on its side. Stick your finger inside as far as it will go. You will feel the inside diameter of the stator, which you should be able to move side to side a bit. Turn this stator in both directions. It should move freely one way, and lock in place the other way. If it turns freely both ways, you will need to replace the torque converter as well because the one-way clutch mechanism has been damaged.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hilltopgraphics &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your transmission has undoubtedly burnt a clutch. If you have access to the tools, all you will need to replace are the affected clutch disks / plates and the internal strainer. Make sure to destake the shaft nuts so you don't strip out the threads. Otherwise you'll have to replace a shaft as well - not cheap.

Exfoliated clutch fibers will also make their way into your valve bodies, especially if your strainer has ruptured. You will need to disassemble the valve bodies and remove the valves. Flush out the valve body bores and hydraulic circuits really well and re-assemble them. Also flush out the hydraulic circuitry in the torque converter case, then clean your separator plates. Make sure not to introduce new contamination into the valve bodies ANYWHERE. Honda maintains a super tight tolerance on their valves, so even a hair or lint can cause the valve to hang up.

While you've got the torque converter by itself, stand it up on its side. Stick your finger inside as far as it will go. You will feel the inside diameter of the stator, which you should be able to move side to side a bit. Turn this stator in both directions. It should move freely one way, and lock in place the other way. If it turns freely both ways, you will need to replace the torque converter as well because the one-way clutch mechanism has been damaged.

</TD></TR></TABLE> good info

 

b u m p....cuz the stator only works on a one way clutch...that turns clock wise Not counterclock wise.....the best way to find out what the problem would be is either to do a stall speed test which is used to diagnose converter operation.....g/l

 

Usually a stall test is not recommended because you can ruin a lot of things doing it....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A_Rotary_Guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Usually a stall test is not recommended because you can ruin a lot of things doing it....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well in that case you would have to check for specs on the Service manual for (procedure)...