After reading Evil Teken's your advice and feeling like an idiot, I searched through the archives to better inform myself before asking any more stupid questions. I have been a victim of crime around 15 times that I remember, I was even held up for my Halloween candy bag when I was 5-6 years old! And I can’t surrender to hope I can protect my car as much as I can given my knowledge, time and resources. As you might imagine I am very paranoid and I do not trust installers so I have, in my mind no option but to do the install myself.

I feel comfortable with electronics but I’m no expert. I took electronics in engineering school (mechanical though), but now to my point, I have been reading your info and am getting discouraged in my alarm project
Anyway, here’s some information of what I have and what I plan in the hopes that you are very bored and have plenty of time to read and give some advice or corrections.
I bought a while ago a Clifford XL 1000 and then found a Avistart 6000 dirt cheap so I bought that too. I was planning to install both independently but as time went by they were forgotten in a closet. Now I had my car broken into so the alarms are going in.
My plan, just the Avistart, one Bulldog 2 stge prox. Sensor, Avistar horn, Clifford horn, Air horns (thinking of using a signal flasher relay to make it pulse but don’t know exactly how), finally 2 mini horns in the interior of the car (all hooked up with a relay each and the brain is just a trigger), battery in the hood in the spare wheel well (Optima no spill. In the hood I’ll have a gutted battery and maybe a siren inside it), battery box (don’t know if I should make one of Ľ Plexiglas which I have a lot and just cover the whole wheel well with sheet metal or just the sheet metal), Sheet metal cover for the whole wheel well with a lock ( I can fit a small amp and cd changer there too. For base I was thinking I might fit 8” subs in the rear speaker cavities and fill the panels with insulating foam), solenoid hood release and the hood cable is an alarm trigger disconnected from the hood latch i.e. phony hood release cable, Battery brain in the rear side panel cavities and routed through the inner window frames, use the Clifford magnetic resonance sensor in the Avistart optional sensor input (haven’t decided I think that would preclude me form the benefit of dual stage right?), ignition cutoff to my MSD 6L aftermarket ignition (shuts down with a negative input), and finally removing the key mechanism to avoid slim jims and only using the actuators via the remote (I installed actuators to have power locks with a relay setup ghetto but works perfect).

Now I hope you are still reading and have some time to respond. And I hope you haven’t gotten sick to your stomach with such infantile ideas. Specific questions besides the one about the optional sensor are;
· In my CRX manual it says I have 2 IGN.1 wires and 1 IGN 2 wire. One of the IGN1 wires contacts the A/C accessory and BAT wire in the I and II key position the other IGN1 wire connects to BAT , IGN2, and STARTER wires in II and III key positions. Now which do I use when the installation manual refers to IGN1 and IGN 2? (If I was to confusing don’t worry I’ll try to sort it out later by trial and error.)
· About the diodes, I bought many 1amp rectifier diodes and a few 6amp ones. Besides isolating triggers from each other where else do I put them and are these amp amounts ok?
· Do you recommend the optional sensor I mentioned or not?
· Do you think it's possible to make the air horns pulse with a wiper relay? if so, how?
· Finally, any further help/advice/recommendations you can give me are very welcome.
I’m sorry for the long post but a project like this is not very simple the first time around. Thanks again for your help.


[Modified by Undepelo, 5:11 AM 6/26/2002]


[Modified by Undepelo, 5:17 AM 6/26/2002]


[Modified by Undepelo, 6:48 PM 6/26/2002]


[Modified by Undepelo, 6:51 PM 6/26/2002]

 

wow, i read the whole thing and you have some great ideas, and others that may be a little overkill especially since the car might just get towed.

A word of advice (without being rude), try to paragraph your stuff out! too hard for lots to read, and your just setting yourself up for less answers to your questions.

You should use diodes on all output circuitry, to protect current from being fed back in. this would be your headlight flashers, triggers, etc.

Also use diodes when you are connecting multiple sensors on the same trigger, so the power from one sensors output will not feed back into another sensors output.

The rectifiers, i thought were used to convert ac to dc (still need a capacitor though) so i have no idea where your going to use the rectifier.

I like your battery backup idea, but theres no point trying to fake this and fake that, because if it's seen, and the theif 'thinks' he can bypass it, then he'll break into your car and unleash some vandalism as he tries to play around with your stuff.

Hoodlocks relocated battery good sensors not mentioning a tilt sensor dual stage shock using the archives

good work on your research before re-posting!

-Rage

 

Well thanks for your advice. I did write the post very nice but in Word!! When I copy/pasted it I messed it up, then I got interupted (I'm at work). I removed the post because i'm a dam paranoid jacka$$. Do you think Evil Teken will not like that i emailed it to him? I'm not sure what the protocol is in this forum. Anyway thanks again for your info. Why do you dual shock sensors? I'm thinking with two external alarm sirens, 2 air horns, and 2 mini sirens inside my alarm can't be going off evey time a truck drives by. (Forgot to mention in my post the two mini sirens in the car..hehehe)

 

i downed the fact you forgot to mention a tilt sensor... your reading it off

yea, h-t surfing at work rocks.

The protocol is usually just common sense.. you gotta remember people like teken and others that know alot get asked tons of basic type questions all the time, anyone in that position gets fed up.

He reads everything eletrically related, and if you have specific and true questions hes a great guy at answering informativly and true (we've got alot on the audio/security forums)

Usually, if you have a question, its best to post, so others can answer and get involved as well, this way there is less repetition of information.

Enjoy the forums! Its a total wealth of information, personally, i just read and read for the first year and a half i was on, didnt even get an ID until i knew enough to answer some questions and participate without asking stuff that always gets repeated (best exhaust....)

Sounds like an overkill amout of sirens, you may want to consider something visual instead of noisy, ex strobe light in trunk rather than excessive sirens...


Good luck, and dont get discouraged, were all people

-Rage

 

oh yea, and its a good idea to make informative topics rather than "calling all experts" , "this is amazing" etc.

-Rage

 

Thanks. I've been in crx forums for more than 6 years and each have their own personality. About the sirens I think I'll go with 1 siren ,1 airhorn outside and 2 mini sirens inside or something like that. Anyway I think I will make a ton of changes before I finish this project. Just concirned of how to ask more without giving it all away. (paranoid remember?). hehehe Thanks.

 

dude you better get some relays and use the alarm brains siren output as a "switch" for the relay to activate the sirens instead of hooking them all up to the alarms siren output.. .. otherwise w/ that many sirens /that much power draw... your probably going to toast the brain... also you might want to do what I did and hook up your air horns to your alarms "pulsed" output.. that way while my sirens (yeah I have multiple) are blaring.. your air horns are honking/pulsed on/off/on/off... as if someone is honking...

 

was it just a special relay to pulse it?

 

again.. it came w/ my alarm (Clifford) brain as a standard feature..

 

Yea thats a good idea. I have a bunch of relays around so I do it as you suggested. The air horn I'm planning to hook up with a windshield wiper blinker relay. I have to think about that one a little though. Thanks for your help!

 

I think you can use the flashing parking lights signal to hook up to your relay for the honking air horn.

85: flashing output (positive)
86: Ground
87: Horn (positive)
30: 12V constant

This is a very informative website. I learned everything here!~!
http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/caraudio.htm


**Never forget to fuse the 12v constant or you might have a flaming ride.
***Practice using small 12v objects to see if the relay works.
example: automotive lightsbulbs


[Modified by tuphatt, 9:47 AM 6/27/2002]

 

on the advice.

 

Great advice! thanks!