blown head gasket
my buddy just bought eg coupe with blown head gasket stock d15b7 motor, doesnt no much about why it blew so i pulled the head, gasket was broke by cyl.3 water in 4,3,2 cleaned everything up installed new gasket wont start did comp. test 90,40,60,90 psi from 4-1 only thing i can think of is head is warped
does anyone have other thoughts would really help.
does anyone have other thoughts would really help.
There is the possibility of a bent, broken, or burnt valve. Did you look at the valves when the head was off? Have you done a leakdown test?
i looked over the head when i was cleaning it up seemed ok nothing that caught my eye i probably just pull the head back off and have the machine shop check the head and pressure check it.
Hopefully the block was decked correctly, if the head is warped, that's not as big of a headache to fix versus pulling your block back out to get redecked. Good luck
o'k got the head back from machine shop pressure checked the head all valves good but head was worped pretty good had to shave .25 thousands of put the head back on the block but the comp. only went up in 1-4,which were already the higher of the four 2-3 stayed at 60-30 psi. 1-125 and 4-129 psi. and car still wont start.
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What I dont understand is why you would pull the head back off w/o doing a simple wet/dry comp test or a leakdown test.
How do you know its not your BE?
And a mis-aligned timing belt can very well affect compression. If the cam timing is off you could have a valve open for a few more or less degrees in the compression stroke
How do you know its not your BE?
And a mis-aligned timing belt can very well affect compression. If the cam timing is off you could have a valve open for a few more or less degrees in the compression stroke
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use about a capful of oil, is the pressure shoot up, then your can be pretty sure your rings are worn out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually the pressure should always shoot up, but the key is whether or not it shoots up the same amount on each cylinder if you use the same amount of oil in each cylinder.
If you use one capful, expect around 10psi increase in all cylinders just from the oil itself, but if one of them jumps a lot more than the others, then the rings are usually the culprit
Actually the pressure should always shoot up, but the key is whether or not it shoots up the same amount on each cylinder if you use the same amount of oil in each cylinder.
If you use one capful, expect around 10psi increase in all cylinders just from the oil itself, but if one of them jumps a lot more than the others, then the rings are usually the culprit
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek_chris »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What I dont understand is why you would pull the head back off w/o doing a simple wet/dry comp test or a leakdown test.
How do you know its not your BE?
And a mis-aligned timing belt can very well affect compression. If the cam timing is off you could have a valve open for a few more or less degrees in the compression stroke</TD></TR></TABLE>
we'll if u read the begining thread u would see the comp # were low so common sense would lean more to worped head or bent valve which the valves were good and the head was worped pretty bad and and thanks to other guys giving me some help.
How do you know its not your BE?
And a mis-aligned timing belt can very well affect compression. If the cam timing is off you could have a valve open for a few more or less degrees in the compression stroke</TD></TR></TABLE>
we'll if u read the begining thread u would see the comp # were low so common sense would lean more to worped head or bent valve which the valves were good and the head was worped pretty bad and and thanks to other guys giving me some help.
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Jan 13, 2009 09:08 AM




