engine starts in START position but then imediatly dies when put in RUN position
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engine starts in START position but then imediatly dies when put in RUN position
so ya the car is a 91 civic hatch, with a b18a in it.
the idle has been all over the place for a few weeks, along with the rpms dive bombing after i take it OUT of gear, sometimes drops so low that the engine dies, doesnt really matter on the speed.
well today i decided to screw around with that idle screw on the throttle body to try and raise the idle a little so it would stop dying on me on the road. After messing with it for a bit the motor suddenly revs to 3k rpm, i tap the throttle and it goes back down, let go and it goes back to 3k, so i shut the engine off and turn the idle screw the opposite way (Dont remember which way i turned it , i think counter clockwise) i then go to turn it back on and it dies instantly.
THEN after playing with it some more (here im thinking its not getting enough air at idle) so i give it some gas which doesnt seem to help. Later on i notice there is no dash lights with the ignition key in run position, no fuel pump priming or anything, but the radio and headlights and such are all working... But when i turn it to START all the dash lights pop on, main relay and pump come on, press down the clutch pedal and the motor starts up just fine. As long as the key is remain held at start it will run, the instant you drop it back to run the motor dies instantly...
Before all of the BS happened, i did some measuring and i seem to have 4 ohms of resistance going from the battery negative terminal to ground (Battery in trunk) that wire also happens to be a 12 gauge (i think? its small anyway) while the positive side is 2 gauge. The valve cover ground is also corred to **** with around 1.5 ohms, theres this other ground wire on the passenger side of the engine bay sorta right in front of the radiator fan that is tiny as hell which looks like is connncted to the harness and goes up to the fuse box and such.
I LOOKED at every god damn fuse (under dash and in bay) they all look good, doesnt mean they measure out fine but for a visual they are good. Would be nice to have a ignition switch wiring diagram which i dont seem to have at the moment. But what im thinking about doing is replaciing some ground wires and see what happens from there. Ive been told that bad grounds can cause all sorts of fucked up problems.
Other than that im not sure about what to do... i was thinking at first maybe a short or something in the ignition switch, but what the hell would that have to do with me just turning that idle screw?
the idle has been all over the place for a few weeks, along with the rpms dive bombing after i take it OUT of gear, sometimes drops so low that the engine dies, doesnt really matter on the speed.
well today i decided to screw around with that idle screw on the throttle body to try and raise the idle a little so it would stop dying on me on the road. After messing with it for a bit the motor suddenly revs to 3k rpm, i tap the throttle and it goes back down, let go and it goes back to 3k, so i shut the engine off and turn the idle screw the opposite way (Dont remember which way i turned it , i think counter clockwise) i then go to turn it back on and it dies instantly.
THEN after playing with it some more (here im thinking its not getting enough air at idle) so i give it some gas which doesnt seem to help. Later on i notice there is no dash lights with the ignition key in run position, no fuel pump priming or anything, but the radio and headlights and such are all working... But when i turn it to START all the dash lights pop on, main relay and pump come on, press down the clutch pedal and the motor starts up just fine. As long as the key is remain held at start it will run, the instant you drop it back to run the motor dies instantly...
Before all of the BS happened, i did some measuring and i seem to have 4 ohms of resistance going from the battery negative terminal to ground (Battery in trunk) that wire also happens to be a 12 gauge (i think? its small anyway) while the positive side is 2 gauge. The valve cover ground is also corred to **** with around 1.5 ohms, theres this other ground wire on the passenger side of the engine bay sorta right in front of the radiator fan that is tiny as hell which looks like is connncted to the harness and goes up to the fuse box and such.
I LOOKED at every god damn fuse (under dash and in bay) they all look good, doesnt mean they measure out fine but for a visual they are good. Would be nice to have a ignition switch wiring diagram which i dont seem to have at the moment. But what im thinking about doing is replaciing some ground wires and see what happens from there. Ive been told that bad grounds can cause all sorts of fucked up problems.
Other than that im not sure about what to do... i was thinking at first maybe a short or something in the ignition switch, but what the hell would that have to do with me just turning that idle screw?
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From: Humboldt, ca, usa
Re: engine starts in START position but then imediatly dies when put in RUN position (Bjorn20)
your idle problem is most likely a seperate problem,search for FITV(bouncing idle when cold) and IACV(bouncing idle when warm)
but it sounds like your ignition(where you put your key) went out on you. a friend of mine had the exact thing happen, he had to hold the key in the right position to keep it running. i think he ended up getting a new ignition from the dealer for a pretty penny.
as for the grounds, its sounds like you should get a larger ground for the tranny to chassis ground, this is where your battery used to ground and when relocating the battery you should remake this connection. but i doubt this is the source of your problems.
good luck
but it sounds like your ignition(where you put your key) went out on you. a friend of mine had the exact thing happen, he had to hold the key in the right position to keep it running. i think he ended up getting a new ignition from the dealer for a pretty penny.
as for the grounds, its sounds like you should get a larger ground for the tranny to chassis ground, this is where your battery used to ground and when relocating the battery you should remake this connection. but i doubt this is the source of your problems.
good luck
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Re: engine starts in START position but then imediatly dies when put in RUN position (Bjorn20)
I had the same problem. Its the unit that goes on the back of the key cylinder that has the harness on it. I bought one at Autozone for 20-30 bucks.
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Re: engine starts in START position but then imediatly dies when put in RUN position (grog)
Ive taken out the IACV and sprayed the **** out of it with seafoam and didnt seem to accomplish anything.
Whats wierd is that couple months ago when i got the motor tuned, the tuner set the idle at 1k on the s200. For a good month or so the tach never dropped below 1k which is a good thing, then all of a sudden when it started getting colder out, its idling below 1k (normal is like 800 or so) but i dunno... not too long after i got it tuned i went to jump start a friends car and hooked up the terminals back words on my battery, i really hope that didnt expletive up the ecu or s200. I think it might have because Ive been having wierd little electrical problems ever since i did that. (for instance whenever i turn the steering wheel real sharp to the right, the overhead light on the roof comes on)
I dunno maybe its just a coincidence that the ignition switch went out at the same time when playing with the throttle? I took the plastic covering off that covers up the steering colomn and didnt really see anything wrong visually.
whenever i turn the key back and forth between run and accessory, something (i think behind the cluster) beeps at me, if that means anything?
I dunno, thanks for the help anyway, i dont suppose you can get a decent quality ignition switch anywhere else besides a dealership?
Whats wierd is that couple months ago when i got the motor tuned, the tuner set the idle at 1k on the s200. For a good month or so the tach never dropped below 1k which is a good thing, then all of a sudden when it started getting colder out, its idling below 1k (normal is like 800 or so) but i dunno... not too long after i got it tuned i went to jump start a friends car and hooked up the terminals back words on my battery, i really hope that didnt expletive up the ecu or s200. I think it might have because Ive been having wierd little electrical problems ever since i did that. (for instance whenever i turn the steering wheel real sharp to the right, the overhead light on the roof comes on)
I dunno maybe its just a coincidence that the ignition switch went out at the same time when playing with the throttle? I took the plastic covering off that covers up the steering colomn and didnt really see anything wrong visually.
whenever i turn the key back and forth between run and accessory, something (i think behind the cluster) beeps at me, if that means anything?
I dunno, thanks for the help anyway, i dont suppose you can get a decent quality ignition switch anywhere else besides a dealership?
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Re: engine starts in START position but then imediatly dies when put in RUN position (bigchris2000)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigchris2000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had the same problem. Its the unit that goes on the back of the key cylinder that has the harness on it. I bought one at Autozone for 20-30 bucks. </TD></TR></TABLE>
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....yxjzj
when looking at that, are you refering to #7?
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....yxjzj
when looking at that, are you refering to #7?
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From: Humboldt, ca, usa
Re: engine starts in START position but then imediatly dies when put in RUN position (Bjorn20)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bjorn20 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ive taken out the IACV and sprayed the **** out of it with seafoam and didnt seem to accomplish anything. <U>is that what you are supposed to use? isnt it like carb cleaner</U>.
not too long after i got it tuned i went to jump start a friends car and hooked up the terminals back words on my battery, i really hope that didnt expletive up the ecu or s200. I think it might have because Ive been having wierd little electrical problems ever since i did that. (for instance whenever i turn the steering wheel real sharp to the right, the overhead light on the roof comes on)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
when you hooked the battery up backwards did you start it? you could have fried something
not too long after i got it tuned i went to jump start a friends car and hooked up the terminals back words on my battery, i really hope that didnt expletive up the ecu or s200. I think it might have because Ive been having wierd little electrical problems ever since i did that. (for instance whenever i turn the steering wheel real sharp to the right, the overhead light on the roof comes on)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
when you hooked the battery up backwards did you start it? you could have fried something
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Re: engine starts in START position but then imediatly dies when put in RUN position (bigchris2000)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigchris2000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes. They wear out after time.</TD></TR></TABLE>
alrighty ill give that a try and see what happens, thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by grog »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your idle problem is most likely a seperate problem,search for FITV(bouncing idle when cold) and IACV(bouncing idle when warm)
but it sounds like your ignition(where you put your key) went out on you. a friend of mine had the exact thing happen, he had to hold the key in the right position to keep it running. i think he ended up getting a new ignition from the dealer for a pretty penny.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
just looked up that FITV, and im not even sure if i re hooked that up when i changed manifolds.
thanks for the quick service
alrighty ill give that a try and see what happens, thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by grog »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your idle problem is most likely a seperate problem,search for FITV(bouncing idle when cold) and IACV(bouncing idle when warm)
but it sounds like your ignition(where you put your key) went out on you. a friend of mine had the exact thing happen, he had to hold the key in the right position to keep it running. i think he ended up getting a new ignition from the dealer for a pretty penny.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
just looked up that FITV, and im not even sure if i re hooked that up when i changed manifolds.
thanks for the quick service
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From: MN, United States
Re: engine starts in START position but then imediatly dies when put in RUN position (grog)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by grog »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
when you hooked the battery up backwards did you start it? you could have fried something</TD></TR></TABLE>
well i cranked it but it wouldnt start up, it was one of those real slow cranks when your battery is dying. AFter i noticed a lot of smoke coming from the cables (rubber melted) i shut it down.
the thing is though, if i fried one of the engines computers, i would think the engine would either run like complete **** or not even run at all or even set off the check engine light from a damaged component inside the compute or something.
for that IACV/EACV whatever you wanna call it..... i was told that they sometimes get dirty with carbon buildup and ****. I figured if seafoam can clean carbon buildup from the engine why wouldnt it clean out that? But i could be wrong
when you hooked the battery up backwards did you start it? you could have fried something</TD></TR></TABLE>
well i cranked it but it wouldnt start up, it was one of those real slow cranks when your battery is dying. AFter i noticed a lot of smoke coming from the cables (rubber melted) i shut it down.
the thing is though, if i fried one of the engines computers, i would think the engine would either run like complete **** or not even run at all or even set off the check engine light from a damaged component inside the compute or something.
for that IACV/EACV whatever you wanna call it..... i was told that they sometimes get dirty with carbon buildup and ****. I figured if seafoam can clean carbon buildup from the engine why wouldnt it clean out that? But i could be wrong
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Re: engine starts in START position but then imediatly dies when put in RUN position (bigchris2000)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigchris2000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My bad on the price. Advance auto Parts shows them at 70-80 for the harness and all.</TD></TR></TABLE>
another thing, how do you know its the harness and not the entire unit? Is there a way to test it to be certain about that? Just curious.
another thing, how do you know its the harness and not the entire unit? Is there a way to test it to be certain about that? Just curious.
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Re: engine starts in START position but then imediatly dies when put in RUN position (Bjorn20)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bjorn20 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the thing is though, if i fried one of the engines computers, i would think the engine would either run like complete **** or not even run at all or even set off the check engine light from a damaged component inside the compute or something.
<U>i meant that you may have fried some wiring</U>
for that IACV/EACV whatever you wanna call it..... i was told that they sometimes get dirty with carbon buildup and ****. I figured if seafoam can clean carbon buildup from the engine why wouldnt it clean out that? But i could be wrong i dont know,
<U> i was just asking cause I have never heard of seafoam being used in that manner, do a search and check and see what others use </U></TD></TR></TABLE>
and I assume you just need the ignition unit.
the thing is though, if i fried one of the engines computers, i would think the engine would either run like complete **** or not even run at all or even set off the check engine light from a damaged component inside the compute or something.
<U>i meant that you may have fried some wiring</U>
for that IACV/EACV whatever you wanna call it..... i was told that they sometimes get dirty with carbon buildup and ****. I figured if seafoam can clean carbon buildup from the engine why wouldnt it clean out that? But i could be wrong i dont know,
<U> i was just asking cause I have never heard of seafoam being used in that manner, do a search and check and see what others use </U></TD></TR></TABLE>
and I assume you just need the ignition unit.
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Re: engine starts in START position but then imediatly dies when put in RUN position (Bjorn20)
Its not the actual harness. The unit has contacts inside. The harness is soldiered to the end of it. Go to advanceautoparts.com and look up ignition switch and it shows you a good pic. You do need the entire unit.
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Re: engine starts in START position but then imediatly dies when put in RUN position (bigchris2000)
Yep, ignition switch alright. That happened to me in my old DA Integra and I had to drive home about 20 miles holding the key in between the RUN and the START positions to keep it running. MAN was my hand sore by the time I got home! Within a week before this happened I had the same symptoms as you too. Twice it happened, I'd be driving down the freeway in 5th and suddenly lose power, put the clutch in and it would stall. Turned the ignition off and back on, let the clutch out and back to normal.
If you have an auto wrecker around hit them up for it. Think I paid $5 or $10 for mine.
If you have an auto wrecker around hit them up for it. Think I paid $5 or $10 for mine.
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From: miltonfreewater, or, usa
Re: engine starts in START position but then imediatly dies when put in RUN position (dubzz24)
i'd change your ignition switch first. it could be the root of all your evils!!! i work at a wrecking yard and we test the ones we sell so i'm sure if you should be able to get one from there if you live close to one
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Re: engine starts in START position but then imediatly dies when put in RUN position (Bjorn20)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bjorn20 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....yxjzj
when looking at that, are you refering to #7? </TD></TR></TABLE>
wait a min...when I swtched over my lockset on my CRX I could leave #7 and the rest of the harness unhooked, my car would turn over with a screwdriver from the harness side. I'm pretty sure only thing #7 does is makes that beeping noise when the key is in the ignition.
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....yxjzj
when looking at that, are you refering to #7? </TD></TR></TABLE>
wait a min...when I swtched over my lockset on my CRX I could leave #7 and the rest of the harness unhooked, my car would turn over with a screwdriver from the harness side. I'm pretty sure only thing #7 does is makes that beeping noise when the key is in the ignition.
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Re: engine starts in START position but then imediatly dies when put in RUN position (wickedEFguy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wickedEFguy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
wait a min...when I swtched over my lockset on my CRX I could leave #7 and the rest of the harness unhooked, my car would turn over with a screwdriver from the harness side. I'm pretty sure only thing #7 does is makes that beeping noise when the key is in the ignition. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Nope #7 is what controls all the electronics in the different ignition positions. Really all the key does is unlock the steering column, and turn the end of the ignition switch (#7).
wait a min...when I swtched over my lockset on my CRX I could leave #7 and the rest of the harness unhooked, my car would turn over with a screwdriver from the harness side. I'm pretty sure only thing #7 does is makes that beeping noise when the key is in the ignition. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Nope #7 is what controls all the electronics in the different ignition positions. Really all the key does is unlock the steering column, and turn the end of the ignition switch (#7).
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