Im going to be installing a clifford AG4 alarm.

I need to know the following...

1.Do I have Heater A/C, Heater 2, and Ignition 2 wires from the ignition switch? (i dont think so)

2.Where is the closest/easiest place to get access to the Door Lock/Unlock AND Window Up/Down wires?

3.Are the integra power door systems normally closed or normally open systems?


Clifford Alarm Install Help

Steps required to start a car that is installed as a manual tranny:
Steps required to start a car installed as an automatic tranny.

so I want to install this onto my stick car, but use the automatic installation way. Is it possible for it to still look make it look for the ebrake in order to start?

Clifford AG 4 Installation Manual

 

I will be using the manual installation method provided in the book.

Are the doors being normally open or closed...


[Modified by integra-modder, 1:07 AM 6/30/2002]

 

I would assume you would want your doors closed for your alarm to be effective

 

How do you look at that as that many steps? OK:

STEP 1: Start car --- well your car is already running
STEP 2: When you are ready to leave the car set the emergency break -- you should do that anyway
STEP 3: Set the Heat or AC -- well you have to do that if you want that to work for any remote starter
STEP 4: Car in Neutral -- well you should do that too especially if you want RS on a 5spd
STEP 5: Push button II on master -- ok so at this point you have done one thing extra
STEP 6: Turn key off and exit. -- hey what a great idea
STEP 7: Close doors -- there's a start -- Arm the alarm -- you should do that anyway
STEP 8: If you don't get anything from your car while you are a) in a store b) at work c) sleeping at night d) all of the above e) none of the above then you are all set
STEP 9: Push a button to start car -- well at this point you are now starting the car after you have done either A, B, C, D, E from above.

So we can recap in to 3 easy steps

Revise STEP 1: Drive car, when done get out of car like you normally do, LEAVE IT IN NEUTRAL
Revise STEP 2: Push a single button and get out of car, and ARM it like you do anyway
Revise STEP 3: Do A, B, C, D, or E (from above) now push the button when you get back to or wake up, to start it.

So you are telling me that from 9 steps to 3 steps and the ONLY thing EXTRA/DIFFERENT that you are doing is pushing one button to enable the RS. and then there is a whole extra step (original step 9) to start the car.

Sounds like cake to me. Do it. Good luck.



[Modified by 99VTECex, 1:00 AM 6/25/2002]

 

ok

anyone know if the doors on tegs are normally open or normally closed?

 

ttt

 

what do you mean normally open or closed? They have a negative trigger meaning the doors ground out when they are open.

 

the circut for opening and closing doors, is it normally open or normally closed?

 

just found this:

 

Hook your ground wire to the commons and the N.O. to the door locks.

 

I would follow this advice. I built a sensor that would tell if the car was in gear. Well it worked for two years. Then it failed now I have a hole the size of my car in the wall in my garage. I am still determined to defeat this but more engineering work by me is needed. I have heard of to many accidents to recommend anyone to try and defeat this.


[Modified by nsxxtreme, 9:38 PM 6/26/2002]

 

I changed my mind already and am doing it the correct way. After I thought about it, Its not worth the chance of an extra seconds worth of time and maybe .01 cents of fuel each time rather than a few grand in repairs.

 

what year is your teg?

 

on the integra the door lock system is a 201 system ( negative door lock ) if you use a test ligth on your door locks.... it should give you a negative signal when you press lock or unlock on your car,...

 

2001

so does that its normally open?

 

Tape off the gray/orange and gray/green wires. You won't use those. Hook up the red/green and red/orange to ground. Hook up the white/green and white/orange wires to your doorlocks.

 

are you sure these arent reversed? cuz id figured that the red/grn and red/org are to the door locks and the white/green and white/orange to the grounds.

 

The last post is correct. Your car has negative trigger door locks and the alarm has onboard relays which do three different lock and unlock set ups. So if they are negative you have to ground the 86 and 87 of the diagram and hook up the 30's of the alarm to the dook locks the other two wires are not needed. Hope that helps you out.

 

wtf? im lost!

where are you getting 86,87, and 30 from?

 

here is full steps where ur wires are.. for 2001 integ

| ITEM | WIRE COLOR |POL| WIRE LOCATION |
| 12V|white |+ |ignition harness |
| STARTER|black/white |+ |ignition harness |
| IGNITION|black/yellow |+ |ignition harness |
| ACCESSORY|yellow |+ |ignition harness |
| POWER LOCK|black/white |- |drivers kick panel *2 |
| POWER UNLOCK|black/red |- |drivers kick panel *2 |
| LOCK MOTOR|white/red | |driver kick panel |
| UNLOCK MOTOR|yellow/red | |motor in driver door |
| DISARM DEFEAT|yellow/red | |driver kick panel |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|red/black *3 | |grn plug above fusebox |
| PARKING LIGHTS -|green/yellow | |factory alarm (if equipped) |
| HEADLIGHTS|red/wht (low) 12awg|+ |steering column |
| DOOR TRIGGER|lt. green/red *4 |- |drivers kick panel *2 |
| DOME SUPERVISION|use door trigger | | |
| TRUNK/HATCH PIN|green |- |*6 |
| HOOD PIN|yellow/red |- |drivers kick panel |
|TRNK/HTCH RELEASE|blue |- |at switch *7 |
| FCTRY ALARM ARM|factory remote only | | |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM|factory remote only | | |
| TACHOMETER|blue | |distributor *1 |
| SPEED SENSE|orange | |instrument cluster |
| BRAKE WIRE|green/white |+ |brake switch |
| HORN TRIGGER|gray or blu/grn |- |steering column |
| WIPERS|blue & blu/yel *5 |- |steering column |
| LF WINDOW UP/DN|red/blu - red/yel |A |in drivers door |
| RF WINDOW UP/DN|blu/yel - blu/grn |A |in drivers door or dkp |
| LR WINDOW UP/DN|green - grn/yel |A |in drivers door or dkp |
| RR WINDOW UP/DN|yel/grn - yellow |A |in drivers door or dkp |
| SUN RF OPN/CLOSE|grn/red - grn/yel |A |sun roof switch |
| RADIO 12V|white/blue |+ |radio |
| RADIO GROUND|black |- |radio |
| RADIO SWITCH|yellow/red |+ |radio |
| RADIO ILLUMINATE|red/black |+ |radio |
| POWER ANTENNA|yellow/green |+ |radio |
| LF SPEAKER|blu/grn - gry/blk | |radio |
| RF SPEAKER|red/grn - brn/blk | |radio |
| LR SPEAKER|blu/yel - gry/wht | |radio |
| RR SPEAKER|red/yel - brn/blk | |radio |


Notes:
NOTE: Some models have an immobilizer system that needs to be bypassed during remote start. Use DEI module 555U to bypass. *1 Also found in a 16 pin white or gray plug to the left of the fusebox. *2 In the larger of two attached gray plugs in the lower kick near the firewall. If equipped with cruise control, the plugs are behind the module. To access, remove the lower bolt on the bracket holding the module and pull it up out of the way. The lock wires test only with the passenger lock and unlock switch. *3 Also a male blade terminal is available in fuse box. *4 Looks like 14 ga.wire but mostly insulation. *5 Use both and diode isolate each. *6 12 pin blue plug on top center of fusebox. *7 Trunk release only works with the doors unlocked.


[Modified by Json79, 10:59 PM 6/30/2002]

 

thanks but ive already posted a link to that in a few other posts...

 

no offense but car alarms and especially car starters should be left to the pros to install. the $100-$200 you will spend extra on the install is well worth it because of the warrenty and time of install. plus professional shops are insured meaning that if something should happen to your car they are responsible for the dammages.

 

No, the AG4 ran me $400....if it was a $100 difference for a quiality install and me doing it, I'd have it done. The fact is, to get one installed, the cheapest place that I would trust to do any work to my car is 900 installed. The cheapest place period is 790. Mind you those are plus tax.

I've done starters and alarms before, just nothing this intricate. There is always time for a first. But thanks for your insight.

 

Not to be an *******, but with the kind of questions you are asking you should not even be installing this yourself. If you have to ask where the easiest place is to get the window up/down wires and where to get the doorlock wires, you are in for way more than you think. It really erks me the way people take for granted the amount of skill required to do a proper alarm installation. Also, keep in mind that if and when your car starts in gear, you are responsible for all damages and if it hits a person, you are in for more than that. Also, dont forget the cost of an airbag, cause if you probe a wire you shouldnt, youre gonna be buyin new airbags and probably a new windshield also......more things that people dont consider when deciding to do their own alarm.

 

Thanks for the warning, however id advise on reading the thread more clearly since about an hour after I posted my first stupid intent I realized how stupid it was and then changed it.
Some cars have esier locations to access wires. I thought someone might know.
I dont understand how asking a question like that puts me in over my head.
now if i asked how do i splice a wire, that would mean im in over my head.

are you an installer yourself?