I have a b16 tranny with a tilton twin disk and at high rpms (10K) the car will not go into 4th gear. I recently replaced the 3rd and 4th gear and syncro, but the problem still exists.

During normal driving the car goes into gear without a problem and I have already played around with setting up a clutch stop.

Does anyone have any ideas of what can be causing this?
Please help ASAP I wanted to take my car to the track this weekend.

 

is this the tilton pedal stop issue?

 

adjust the pedal travel for the master cylinder

 

where is the pedal when the clutch releases?

 

Something might be wrong with that 4th gear. it goes into all the other gears fine so i dont see why it would be a clutch pedal issue.
brand new gear or is it used? Cryo treated? were the clearances right with the synchro?

 

This may sound completely stupid but bare with me.

Check the shift linkage, drop it and check all the bushings- make sure everything is ok.

We had a high power AM car that would not go into 4th gear at high rpms. driving normal was fine, even at 6k was fine. only 8500+ it was like 4th was just not there. we tried 3 different trans combinations, spent almost 5 grand in parts, wasted almost a year and a half. Pretty sad actually. Then one day we dropped the shift linkage and found the bushing was elongated like an oval instead of being a perfect circle. Put a brand new OEM b series linkage in and BAM 4th was smooth as butter.

I know its a long shot but if i can save someone else the headaches we had im all for it....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotypeR@SPEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where is the pedal when the clutch releases?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The pedal is about 1" from the floor when it engages.

melovesboost its a brand new stock not cryo treated 3rd and 4th gear, but the problem is not isolated to 4th gear it just seems like its the gear that gives me the most problem. The 2nd gear wont go into gear alot of times and to a lesser extent 3rd gear.

2fastGSR I will check over the shift linkage tommorow and see if I can find any problems with it. Is the bushing your refering to the one where the linkage connects to the tranny?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedcivicsir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is this the tilton pedal stop issue?</TD></TR></TABLE>
which pedal stop issue is this?

 

have you tried adjusting the pedal so that it does not release right off the floor? maybe it is not releasing all of the way. if it is realeasing right off of the floor a pedal stop is not the answer

 

with the tilton, if it realeases right off the floor, your lucky to get it into any gear!!!! especially 4th after some heat is being put in.....

 

If the clutch releases that low I don't see how you shift into any gear, on an aggressive shift you would never disengage the clutch. You need your engagement point up much higher than it is now.

 

my crx has hydro b with tilton twin & tilton release bearing and having the same problem. Shifts fine at low rpm but not at 8500&lt; also having problem going into 1st after burnout. I would also like to know the cure for this problem

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88 yellow crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my crx has hydro b with tilton twin & tilton release bearing and having the same problem. Shifts fine at low rpm but not at 8500&lt; also having problem going into 1st after burnout. I would also like to know the cure for this problem </TD></TR></TABLE>

CHECK over everything!!!! listen to me when i say, dont jump right on the clutch, i had the same problem, thought it was the clutch-made adjustments=no fix
had a broken rear mount-i knew that was the cuplprit=no fix
decided to take the trans apart-found sycros in bad shape-replaced 1st syn/hub and gear same goes for second=NO FIX
guess what, my stupid 2 dollar shifter stabilizer bushing was worn to ****=FIX (YEAH)
This was causing my car to not go into first after the burnout and making a second gear shift near impossible lol
just my .02

 

I will have to check it. Is it the one that the linkage shaft goes through and bolts to the bottom of the floor? Because mine is brand new, its energy suspension though maybe that's the problem.

 

Like mentioned...always check the easiest things first Most of the time it will be that simple little item that you overlooked!

When replacing the gears...how did the sleeve look? Was that replaced? How about the fork? Also did you check your internal shift mechanism clearances to make sure they were still in spec?

 

Your not getting the clutch to fully disengage if only off the floor 1 inch...
every clutch is different as for the pedal adjustment on the master cylindr.. Like stated above, you need to make sure that you have a good master cylinder, slave cylinder, and no leaks in the hydrolic lines... The tilton requires more adjustment than lets say a clutch master's from my experience... You want to adjust the pedal to the point of full dis engagment, but do not allow the pedal to feel spungy at full engagment, as it will damage the master cylinder. Also, like said befor, check all your bushings and motor mounts... Ensure they are alkl tight and are in good gondition... The motor/trans assy. under power move further away from the shifter, therfore making the throw longer if the mounts are not tight or the bushings are bad causing movment.

 

I did'nt put in new gears all gears looked good no chipped teeth etc... I changed to carbon syn., shaft bearings, diff. bearings, and seals. Also installed quaife and used correct oem honda shims to set clearance to spec. Used old sleeve and fork was told looked good. I did'nt assemble trans myself I had (Ron from RLD-FAB ) help me because I never had one apart and did'nt want to take a chance messing something up, plus he assembled his trans with the same parts. My trans seemed to shift good on bench after overhaul was done. But I've gone to the track 5 times, trying different things each time, and everytime I get the same thing. Car wont go into 1st after burnout and wont shift 8500&lt; but normal driving it shifts fine. Do you think I should pull trans apart again, if so what should I look for?

 

If you have exhausted all the simple things as mentioned above and also checked the clutch as mentioned above. The next step would be to check the trans assembly. If a sleeve and gear combo are worn...replacing the synchro will not fix the problem. It may work in lower RPM's but, grinding and gear lock out will be more prominent in higher RPM's as you are demanding more. If there are any burrs on the sleeve...they will rub on the hub and cause gear engagement problems. This will slow down the process and put a huge amount of stress on the synchro. The synchro can only do soo much and you may get a grind or gear lockout.

Also if the gear looks great and so do the inner engagement teeth on the sleeve. You may have a clearance issue on the outer race of the sleeve that slides onto the fork. If the fork is worn or the sleeve outer race is worn...the sleeve will have a tendancy to favor one side. This will cause the sleeve to engage somewhat at an angle and will not work properly under a high stress condition.

Those are just a couple of things to ponder about and check. Of course you will need to go over all the clearances to double check and make sure things were assembled properly. I am only giving you possible scenarios to look at if all others have been exhausted.

Good luck!!

 

Thanks for all the help

 

Have you found the problem?