Ok my car was origionaly an 93 SI with an h23. I recently put a h22a4 in it and used 94 h22a1 injectors a h23 dizzy and a jdm h22a ecu. The injectors are nearly brand new with 30k miles and the motor has 60k. The motor runs "fine" at certain times and idles fine when it wants to. Say you have a pedal scale 1-10 1 being idle 10 being full throttle. 1-2 runs fine and 6-10 seems to have all the power it should but 3-5 does nothing almost i can be doing 60 and get in the 3-5 range and it bogs down and acts like its missing/wanting to back fire but put it to the floor and it stops and accelerates like it should. However it has almost no power below 1500 rpm so i have to start off at 2- 2500 rpm and ride the clutch a bit after that it has plenty. It also has a idleing problem at times if i push in the clutch to stop at a light most of the times its fine but about 1 time every 5- 10 stops it shuts off. When this happends i try to crank it and it just dies over and over even if you have your foot to the floor it gets up to 3k and just falls and wont crank again until you turn the ignition off and wait a few minutes. I know this has to be an electrical problem somewhere but i have a limited supply of money and cant just go replacing parts "just to check". The car runs at 15 degrees before TDC at idle and i checked it DOES go to about 20 when you hit the throttle. also i dont know if its relative but my ALT burnt up this morning after running the car 1 day with this setup.In the alternators defence it think it got some tranny fluid in it during the rebuild process.

Some one pls help. I love this car and its my daily driver but this problem caused me to miss work today. ANY oppinions relative to my case are appreciated.

 

What ECU ARE u running. If your not using the right ecu you will experience the lag you are getting.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What ECU ARE u running. If your not using the right ecu you will experience the lag you are getting.</TD></TR></TABLE>

A obd1 h22a ecu. Thats stated in my origional post . thnx

 

when you checked the timing was the blue connector under the dash jumped? To set timing correctly it has to be jumped while you adjust it.

 

no i did not check it jumpedwithout it jumped it read 15 degrees before top dead center

 

jump the connector and reset to 15BTDC, and see if that helps some of your issues. IIRC, when you start the engine it runs at 15BTDC, once started, the computer takes over and adjusts, I don't think it should run at that while it is idling, unless the connector is jumped.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Giant_Bean &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">jump the connector and reset to 15BTDC, and see if that helps some of your issues. IIRC, when you start the engine it runs at 15BTDC, once started, the computer takes over and adjusts, I don't think it should run at that while it is idling, unless the connector is jumped.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Does anyone know what the factory timing setting is for a h22a at running temp and idleing WITH the connector jumped.

 

With connector jumped at temp it should idle at 15* btdc, and from the issue you described, it honestly sounds to me like an area of your tps is fried, may wanna change to a new tps and adjust properly, if you have the old H23 one, just slot the screws with a cut-off wheel on a dremel or something, and unscrew them to get it off the throttle body.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snobordboi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With connector jumped at temp it should idle at 15* btdc, and from the issue you described, it honestly sounds to me like an area of your tps is fried, may wanna change to a new tps and adjust properly, if you have the old H23 one, just slot the screws with a cut-off wheel on a dremel or something, and unscrew them to get it off the throttle body.</TD></TR></TABLE> NOTED!!!! I didnt even think about that! My tps was broken and i had to mend it but that was months ago and i had forgoten about it. thnx for the reminder lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snobordboi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With connector jumped at temp it should idle at 15* btdc, and from the issue you described, it honestly sounds to me like an area of your tps is fried, may wanna change to a new tps and adjust properly, if you have the old H23 one, just slot the screws with a cut-off wheel on a dremel or something, and unscrew them to get it off the throttle body.</TD></TR></TABLE>


OK with my conector jumped its running at 15* BTDC and if i unplug my tps at idle the car does not react in <U>any way</U> it doesnt get worse or better. The funny thing is that if the conector is jumped the car runs flawlessly at idle with no jumps hesitations or misses in the motor but unjumped is when i get the miss even at idle. What exactly does that jumped conector bypass???? i need t know exctly what components it disables so i can figure out whats making this thing run rough. The starting problem is getting worse too. When i try and crank it and it goes dead i cant even peddle it to get the rpms up it just goes to about 2k backfires misses and dies over and over again until i turn the key off for about 30 secs. i also smell almost raw fuel when this happends. Could my idle air control motor do this??????BTW i cant seem to reed the CEL with it jumped either it has no distiguished long and short lights it just blinks.

 

I finally got the CEL light to work and all it gave me was a code 17. Vehicle Speed Circuit Malfunction. Which doesnt help me much sigh. I also put my old iacv on it from my h23 and the cut off prob seems to have stopped but i dont know yet. Any more suggestions before i go rip out my TPS????

 

OK!! I tested the tps off the car and it reads .45 ohms closed and 4.95 full open which is normal. To be sure i went ahead and changed it out but i was not met with success. Its still stalling mid pedal and now its over heating I think the over heating is the Thermostat sticking im gana take it out tomarow. Any one with a suggestion guys????? im desprate and ive missed work 3 days in a row due to this.


RECAP 01' h22a4 block (60k miles) 01' h22a4 head(30k miles) in a 94 lude.
jdm h22a ECU
h22a1 injectors
h22a4 fuel regulator and rail
h23 intake air temp sensor( new one on the way from advanced auto JIC)
h23 idle air control motor
h23 harness (v-tech was pre wired and IS working)
h23 dizzy to bypass the Crank Possition sensor
f22 TPS near brand new( same part number as the h22)
h23 knock sensor brand new.

Feel free to ask any question about my setup that might lead to a conclusion. Ive done a couple h22a swaps and even a h23 v-tech frankenstein but ive never had a motor act like this. thnx in advance

 

PS&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt; ITS BURNING A SHATLOAD OF GAS. i ran about 18 miles the other day and burnt 3-4 bars(for you bb6 guys that like a 1/4 tank).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NowABeliever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK!! I tested the tps off the car and it reads .45 ohms closed and 4.95 full open which is normal. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ehh....we were talking in terms of voltage. .45-.55v closed, above 4.5v open 100%

I've never taken resistance readings for it though, did you get the spec from a manual or something? I'm too lazy to look it up right now.

 

yep i have 1k page original sevice manual at a friends house it comes in handy.....sometimes..... but yes i looked it up around 5.00 ohms at 100% open is the normal range.

 

Good ****, yeah I have that manual also, just don't feel like digging through it right now

 

cheers then! unfotunately it doesnt help in this cituation. I could use more than a couple beers right now!




Modified by NowABeliever at 3:46 PM 11/21/2007

 

IATS didnt help nor did the egr and my wiring is all done corect. The problem seems to get better the more i drive it. Could the ecu have a learning curve on it?? does it have to reprogram itself?? ecu sat up for a few months and came off a h22a. Any oppinions?????

 

OK guys someone help! the car runs fine full throttle! But ive driven it for 2 weeks now and the choking at 30% throttle has not gone away but it does seem to be intermitant. and i still have to ride the clutch to get goin. its not a HUGE problem but i dont want to burn my clutch up because its brand new.

all sensors have been replace accept the dizzy harness and there are no CEL showing. I took it to a local honda shop and they were baffled. Although they didnt know what i t was i didnt have 1k to drop on them checking EVERYTHING. HEEEELLLLPPPPP

 

i just did a swap and had a couple similar problems. question...did you take proper time to convert all the vacuum hoses and emissions junk?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4gSilverlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just did a swap and had a couple similar problems. question...did you take proper time to convert all the vacuum hoses and emissions junk? </TD></TR></TABLE>


yes i do have all of the proper emission eqp hooked up but i havnt checked my vacuum hoses. ill check em later and update.

 

dude.

You can't use h22a4 (obd2) injectors.

They're saturated and too small. Get some obd1 h22 injectors.

That's your problem.