History
I bought the car about a week ago. The guy had snapped the timing belt and it had sat for quite some time. It’s an 88 civic hatch dx d15b2.

Yesterday I pulled the head and checked the valves they looked ok but I was just eyeballing it, it sat for maybe 2 days with the valve cover off.
I put the head back on and proceeded to replace the timing belt, alternator belt spark plugs, and oil and started it up for the first time tonight. Before I start it and after and even now there is a clicking that sounds almost like a turn signal but it is not. The timing belt was to loose it slipped and I had to retime it twice before it would start. When it finally started it was running horribly it wraps up nicely but the idle surges very heavily and it is producing allot of white smoke. I think there might be traces of oil in the exhaust as well.
Im gunna adjust the timing more tomorrow because I know it’s off and I haven’t touched the dizzy yet. And give it a little time to sit and clear out. It was postponed for tonight because it came with a loud coffee can for an exhaust (I haven’t had a chance to switch the sir over.) and my parents don’t want to hear it.
One other not is that there is no intake as of now and I know there’s usually a vacuum line of some sort going into the intake charge pipe? I don’t know if any vacuum lines are not right or what, but there are no codes and I gave it a thorough eyeballing. My biggest concern and I think what may be the most defining thing for you guys to help me would be that there seems to be gas spewing from the exhaust manifold which only has 6 of the nine bolts on it. The others broke.
Also the oil and battery light are on.


Any ideas. I'm thinking head gasket bent valves or both? Something of that sort I hope its not and its something simple

 

please help

 

ttt

 

Just a few ideas:

1) You said you tried to start it but the timing belt was loose...I'm sure you know that these are interference engines, so if the crank and the cam shaft don't spin correctly you will more than likely bend a few valves. Unless you get pretty damn lucky, most times when timing belt breaks it bends 2-4 valves...

***Did you rotate the camshaft with the head off to make sure everysingle valve looked ok???

2) white smoke=coolant leak (head gasket not sealed properly)...did you thoroughly clean both block and head mating surfaces??? Did you check to make sure head wasn't warped at all???

3) when vaccuum lines are disconnected or connected improperly your idle will suffer...

 

The D15B2 is not an interference engine and will not bend valves if the belt breaks. We've replaced several belts on D15B2s after they've broken and never had a problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The D15B2 is not an interference engine and will not bend valves if the belt breaks. We've replaced several belts on D15B2s after they've broken and never had a problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well...I've learned something new today!

Thanks

 

I was under the impression that the D15b2 was an interference engine but a broken timing belt rarely resulted in bent valves. Aren't almost all Honda engines were interference?

 

well thats good to know so i supose it would be head gasket. ill get on that soon.
any other ideas?
and thanks for the replys guys.
i know the timing belts a little off ill work on that today and see what i can get to.

 

Did you not replace the head gasket when you put the head back on??? That would be the culprit if so....

Before you put the head back on (with a new headgasket) make sure you remove both the head and block of old gasket material (THOROUGHLY).

 

no i didnt
and ill also replace the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets along with adding some arp headstuds.
anything you recomend in doing these things honda bond er anything?

 

definatley get an MLS headgasket. what are you're plans for the motor?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 503_EF9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no i didnt
and ill also replace the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets along with adding some arp headstuds.
anything you recomend in doing these things honda bond er anything?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's prolly why it is smoking, running rough, etc...Clean, scrape, clean, scrape, and then clean and scrape some more to get Everything off the head and block (just make sure you don't rough up the surface too much). It may even be worthwhile to take the head to a machine shop and have it machined straight (if it is warped at all). I like whiping down the block and head with acetone right before bolting the head on to make sure the surface is clean of oil and dirt.

Unless you have the extra money for headstuds, the old ones SHOULD work find (as long as they are in decent shape).

Now would also be a good time to address the water pump and tensioner pulley's if they haven't been replaced or in bad shape. It's one of those things you might as well replace while you are in there!

And finally make sure you torque the head down correctly with a torque wrech. If you don't have a manual to know what to torque it to, search and find out. If you don't find anything ask me and I'll be happy to help...

Good luck and do it right!

EDIT: And I would also drain your oil and coolant (and refill) after you have everything put together, but before you start the motor...and if you are really cautious like me, I would drain and refill it again after a day or two of driving it...

 

did you run a coolant line to a vacuum line?

 

i dont think so i didnt pull or change any lines out. just searched to see if any looked disconnected.
only one i question is the medium sized one one on the valve cover is not connected
and there is one medium sized one that has a metal sort of t bar in which both metal ends of the t go to nothing.

 

the "vacuum line" that goes to your intake you are referring to is just your pcv. its not really needed. im running it off on my LS, and its fine. it just hurts all the emissions bullshit.

btw, why are you trying to fix a D15B2.....a DOHC ZC is like 400 bux, and its a bolt in swap. im sure you can get some d16's for even cheaper. for the time and money you are spending on a 92 hp to-the-crank engine, you're better off doing a swap.

just do yourself a favor and take that motor to the junkyard, man

 

haha i have a budget to do a b16 like intended in the first place and the resources to do it right
i just decided one step at a time and am spending most of my money on interior and aesthetics so im happy with the car and just getting this engine running well so its drivable until next summer when ill be doing a ls-vtec build.
i know that im basicly throwing money away at the engine but i feel better using my gained knowledge from honda tech on an engine i dont really care about. this is the first time ive had my own engine to pull apart and im glad its one i dont care about i enjoy the problem solving aspect and i feel the 150 or so that ill end up dropping will be well spent and an awsome feeling when i get it running right.
but thanks for the input.