P0740
Anyone familiar with this code and what it entails? All I know is that it has something to do with the tranny.. Any help is appreciated.
Modified by stock96accordlx at 10:18 PM 11/13/2007
Modified by stock96accordlx at 10:18 PM 11/13/2007
It's a torque converter lock-up issue. I can be a number of things from a bad lockup solenoid, bad converter, going bad converter (only slips alittle), valve body, speed sensor, thermostat, ECU, TPS etc.
You can test the lockup solenoids or try some new ones. You can also try to drain and refill the tranny with Honda ATF only (not a flush). Have the dealer run a diagnostics on the ECU to see when the code shows up (at what speed), then they will give you a better idea of what's going on. They will probably tell you that you need a new tranny and converter.
You can test the lockup solenoids or try some new ones. You can also try to drain and refill the tranny with Honda ATF only (not a flush). Have the dealer run a diagnostics on the ECU to see when the code shows up (at what speed), then they will give you a better idea of what's going on. They will probably tell you that you need a new tranny and converter.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by m735is »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's a torque converter lock-up issue. I can be a number of things from a bad lockup solenoid, bad converter, going bad converter (only slips alittle), valve body, speed sensor, thermostat, ECU, TPS etc.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You didn't mention the most likely cause...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You didn't mention the most likely cause...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chiovnidca »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You didn't mention the most likely cause...</TD></TR></TABLE>
which would be..
You didn't mention the most likely cause...</TD></TR></TABLE>
which would be..
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sony224422 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
which would be..</TD></TR></TABLE>
There's a small screen in one of the valve bodies that gets clogged up with clutch material.
which would be..</TD></TR></TABLE>
There's a small screen in one of the valve bodies that gets clogged up with clutch material.
The valve body is inside the tranny, so you would have to remove the tranny and take it apart to get to it.
I was reading somewhere about this when I was diagnosing my code and trying to see why 95% of the posts said just to replace the whole tranny. Seeing as though my tranny shifts fine, it didn't seem reasonable to just replace the whole tranny. A shop can test the line pressure and may be able to determine if the valves are sticking or the porst are clogged.
I ended up replacing the lockup solenoid and the CEL stayed on long enough for me to get my safety inspection. It came back on two days later and has been on since.
I think when all of the other variables are eliminated and the problem lies within the tranny, the shops just replace it and the torque converter. That way, the speed sensors, solenoids, torque converter, valve body, screens and of course the tranny itself (clutches, steels etc) won't be an issue. Plus all of the clutch material won't be circulating through there ruining/clogging up whatever parts they repalce.
I was reading somewhere about this when I was diagnosing my code and trying to see why 95% of the posts said just to replace the whole tranny. Seeing as though my tranny shifts fine, it didn't seem reasonable to just replace the whole tranny. A shop can test the line pressure and may be able to determine if the valves are sticking or the porst are clogged.
I ended up replacing the lockup solenoid and the CEL stayed on long enough for me to get my safety inspection. It came back on two days later and has been on since.
I think when all of the other variables are eliminated and the problem lies within the tranny, the shops just replace it and the torque converter. That way, the speed sensors, solenoids, torque converter, valve body, screens and of course the tranny itself (clutches, steels etc) won't be an issue. Plus all of the clutch material won't be circulating through there ruining/clogging up whatever parts they repalce.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stock96accordlx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this doesnt sound good so far.. how hard is it to get to the screen? where exactly is the screen? i have an auto tranny btw</TD></TR></TABLE>
It requires a complete disassembly and rebuild. Not a job for the average doityourselfer.
It requires a complete disassembly and rebuild. Not a job for the average doityourselfer.
That's what I figured. I've replaced engine internals but NEVER messed with a tranny. EVER. So this is way beyond my level of expertise and comfort level for that matter. Well, it looks like I'm screwed then. How much am I looking to spend to "fix" the problem. Alternatively, how much do used tranny's and (new) tc's generally run? thanks
You have a couple of options:
You can try doing three fluid drain and refills (Honda ATF only). The condition of the fluid and the amount of material on the magnet can tell you a lot.
Try replacing (or at least testing/ cleaning) the lock up solenoid. I went through three used ones before I got one that worked for the two days-they all tested good though.
Finding a known good tranny and rebuilt converter. Anywhere from $150-$750 for the tranny and about $250 for the converter. Or find someone who is doing a 5 speed swap.
Try just the converter, but then you're doing all that work anyway.
Or buying a rebuilt tranny- anywhere between $750-$1500.
I did find a guy on Ebay that had a rebuilt tranny and converter for $220 starting bid, but there was no warranty.
And of course, if you don't eliminate the other possibilities, you could replace the tranny and have the code come up again.
I have this dilema now, but I have about 10 months to decide what to do, if my tranny holds up that long. I can't get the car inspected with the check engine light on, or else I would live with it until the tranny died. If you go with a used one, you could do all that work for it to have the same problem, or crap out soon afterwards. If you have the cash, I would go for a rebuilt one with a warranty.
I think I'm going to look for a complete car that is still running with lower miles so I check the tranny operation. Or even do a 5 speed swap.
You can try doing three fluid drain and refills (Honda ATF only). The condition of the fluid and the amount of material on the magnet can tell you a lot.
Try replacing (or at least testing/ cleaning) the lock up solenoid. I went through three used ones before I got one that worked for the two days-they all tested good though.
Finding a known good tranny and rebuilt converter. Anywhere from $150-$750 for the tranny and about $250 for the converter. Or find someone who is doing a 5 speed swap.
Try just the converter, but then you're doing all that work anyway.
Or buying a rebuilt tranny- anywhere between $750-$1500.
I did find a guy on Ebay that had a rebuilt tranny and converter for $220 starting bid, but there was no warranty.
And of course, if you don't eliminate the other possibilities, you could replace the tranny and have the code come up again.
I have this dilema now, but I have about 10 months to decide what to do, if my tranny holds up that long. I can't get the car inspected with the check engine light on, or else I would live with it until the tranny died. If you go with a used one, you could do all that work for it to have the same problem, or crap out soon afterwards. If you have the cash, I would go for a rebuilt one with a warranty.
I think I'm going to look for a complete car that is still running with lower miles so I check the tranny operation. Or even do a 5 speed swap.
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