What is the easiest and cheapest way to increase the HP in a F22b DOHC?
I see ex. manifolds on ebay for a good price. Will that help the hp or is it mostly for looks?
I also see the cold air intakes... Seams like a lot of money for a intake pipe! What is the HP increast from cold air intake?

What else would give a bolt on HP??
Thanks
Ron

1994 Accord LX f22b DOHC

 

If you look at the horse power table of elements Easy and Cheap don't react well together. When mixed together easy and cheap usually create a somewhat unstable compound that can yield unwanted results.

What is your budget?

Ebay CAI are your only reliable cheap parts for bolt-ons. Even then you have to spend some money on a good filter for them. headers and exhaust are not a place I recommend going cheap. Go cheap now and 1 - 2 years down the road you'll be replacing or spot welding them.

 

OK Good piece of info!!

Marking out cheap, Because I DO want my Honda to remain at a somewhat reliable condition.
Do the headers and intake increase the HP and how much does it increase? What else in a wise bolt on for HP?

My budget is more of a "put a few pieces on here and there" or build it up over time.
So I would rather quailty parts. But what parts would be best for the money?
Thanks

By the way GhostAccord, Nice car!!

 

Thanks! I try and keep it clean. She's up on blocks getting a make-over now.

Do you have any future build/ Hp goals. That is probably the best way to start. Plan now so you don't spend money on things you'll end up selling in a year. If you don't have any long term goals then I would start small with a SRI or CAI. Save up for the headers then the exhaust. That's how I started off on a no budget build. I don't know exactly what my Hp gains were but it runs good sounds good and it actually gave me better mpg. When I'm not hammering the throttle that is.

$350 - $500 off the self headers - Weapon R & DC Sports headers are in the $300 range while GReddy 4-2-1 are in the $400 range. Best thing to do with your exhaust is call up your local muffler shop and get a few quotes on 2.5" crush bent exhaust for a 94 Accord. Most shops should be able to quote you pretty easily. Probably somewhere in the $500 - $800 including a muffler. It's been a while since I had mine done.

 

nos

 

Last weekend I put a muffler on my car. I didn't mess with anything but the muffler and some pipe. If you want to save some money I would assume you could get down under the car and try out putting the new system on yourself.. If you can't do that, but you've already cut part of the system off, just drive that loud beast illegally over to the nearest muffler shop and get them to do what you couldnt do.

 

I have a stock dohc f22b in my 92 accord with the exception of a DF clutch and the intake maifold from my original sohc engine.
I threw it on the dyno, it made 119hp at he wheels and 127 ft lbs torque. I lost some hp but picked up some really good torque making it higher than the hp level across the board. I think a header will be my next mod.

 

SHOOT STERIODS

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GhostAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks! I try and keep it clean. She's up on blocks getting a make-over now.

Do you have any future build/ Hp goals. That is probably the best way to start. Plan now so you don't spend money on things you'll end up selling in a year. If you don't have any long term goals then I would start small with a SRI or CAI. Save up for the headers then the exhaust. That's how I started off on a no budget build. I don't know exactly what my Hp gains were but it runs good sounds good and it actually gave me better mpg. When I'm not hammering the throttle that is.

$350 - $500 off the self headers - Weapon R & DC Sports headers are in the $300 range while GReddy 4-2-1 are in the $400 range. Best thing to do with your exhaust is call up your local muffler shop and get a few quotes on 2.5" crush bent exhaust for a 94 Accord. Most shops should be able to quote you pretty easily. Probably somewhere in the $500 - $800 including a muffler. It's been a while since I had mine done.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your advice started out great and then you lost me completely. Why in the world would anyone spend $500-$800 on a crappy crush-bent cat-back? That's just insane! You can buy a quality aftermarket mandrel-bent stainless steel cat-back for under $500 SHIPPED. Hell, I'd buy a crappy ebay cat-back before I used a "custom" crush-bent one a muffler shop threw together.
I just don't get it

 

Point me in the direction of a quality mandrel bent full exhaust from the header back for $300 shipped and I'm in.

Just to clarify.... I didn't mention the catalytic, I figured that would be implied. Because it doesn't really make sense to buy a 2.5" cat back if your cat and header collector are only 2". A muffler shop will fit you with a complete 2.5" exhaust including a cat, resonator and muffler for $500-800. I don't see that as being a bad deal installed. Now for just a cat back yes that would be a bit much thanks for pointing that out

 

A 2.5" crush bent exhaust from your local muffler shop will free up your engine some. It shouldn't cost more than $300.

I recommend tuning. ESPECIALLY if you're running a sohc ecu, or even a p14(h23).

The only header that would probably increase hp would be the dc sports header. The price isn't exactly friendly and imo, isn't worth the money.

Adding some cams will definitely increase power significantly. You can get regrinds from Deltacam.com. The "272" would be a great choice. But if you want something a bit more friendly(272 brings somewhat of a lopey idle), the "260's" will do.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GhostAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Point me in the direction of a quality mandrel bent full exhaust from the header back for $300 shipped and I'm in.

Just to clarify.... I didn't mention the catalytic, I figured that would be implied. Because it doesn't really make sense to buy a 2.5" cat back if your cat and header collector are only 2". A muffler shop will fit you with a complete 2.5" exhaust including a cat, resonator and muffler for $500-800. I don't see that as being a bad deal installed. Now for just a cat back yes that would be a bit much thanks for pointing that out </TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought you were talking about the cat-back only. Adding a 2.5" high-flow cat helps that price, but it still sounds high to me. My main problem is that the exhaust would be crush-bent. I just don't see the point in spending the money for the same type of restrictive piping that comes from the factory. Yes, 2.5" is larger diameter than stock, but the bends will still be crushed and restrictive. Mandrel-bent exhausts have gotten so inexpensive I just don't see why people still run crush-bent tubing. Not trying to trash anyone's setup, just my 2 cents.

 

Actually now that I think about it you could request a quote for mandrel bent exhaust. There probably isn't much difference in price actually. Considering the Accord really only has two and a half bends in the entire exhaust after the down pipe. The two bends are back to back 90's. No matter what you choose there is still going to be some restriction when the exhaust hits the s bend. Of course there will be less in the man bent system. Can you show me how much?


Modified by GhostAccord at 8:12 AM 11/20/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FarinaMotorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I thought you were talking about the cat-back only. Adding a 2.5" high-flow cat helps that price, but it still sounds high to me. My main problem is that the exhaust would be crush-bent. I just don't see the point in spending the money for the same type of restrictive piping that comes from the factory. Yes, 2.5" is larger diameter than stock, but the bends will still be crushed and restrictive. Mandrel-bent exhausts have gotten so inexpensive I just don't see why people still run crush-bent tubing. Not trying to trash anyone's setup, just my 2 cents.</TD></TR></TABLE>

because the hp differences aren't much. Definitely not butt-dyno significant. I know because I've tried both.

Maybe when you're pushing some significant power it will make a difference, but not for the casual enthusiast that only plans to get a little bit more "umph" out of their engine.