Anyone ever made a Swaybar?
I got into it a while back. I have some books with Porsche guys that were big into making them. It all ties into my anti-dive unit that I've yet to develop...maybe one day
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by C1V1C »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just wondering if anyone here has ever made a Swaybar? I know your suposed to use 4130 or 4140 hight carbon steel. Any advice?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have nothing useful to add to your thread other than 0.4 wt% carbon steels probably dont fall into the high carbon class.
I have nothing useful to add to your thread other than 0.4 wt% carbon steels probably dont fall into the high carbon class.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jon volk »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.hrpworld.com/index....egory
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This is why i love HT
</TD></TR></TABLE>This is why i love HT
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MidShipCivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Haha thats so hardcore! </TD></TR></TABLE> lol
Ya the HRP stuff is great
and those arms come in big lengths so you can cut them down to whatever you want.
Ya the HRP stuff is great
and those arms come in big lengths so you can cut them down to whatever you want.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jon volk »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.hrpworld.com/index....egory
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nice, but not really what I'm looking for. Its for my '08 WRX, there aren't too many options yet for the car so I was thinking of making my own bar.
I was looking to see if anyone had made (bent, welded) their own. Does it need to be heat treated after its bent and welded?
heres a pic where you can see the rear sway, looks pretty easy to make.
</TD></TR></TABLE>nice, but not really what I'm looking for. Its for my '08 WRX, there aren't too many options yet for the car so I was thinking of making my own bar.
I was looking to see if anyone had made (bent, welded) their own. Does it need to be heat treated after its bent and welded?
heres a pic where you can see the rear sway, looks pretty easy to make.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RC000E »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got into it a while back. I have some books with Porsche guys that were big into making them. It all ties into my anti-dive unit that I've yet to develop...maybe one day
.</TD></TR></TABLE>
elaborate on this anti dive unit please.
.</TD></TR></TABLE>elaborate on this anti dive unit please.
I thought sway bars are made out of spring steel. Why not just wait till someone makes one for your car. Sometimes you may think it will be easy to fab one up but when it comes down too it these after market companies spend a lot of money in the R&D of a sway bar or any performance part for your car. Just some input on the situation.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboEK9Coupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I thought sway bars are made out of spring steel. Why not just wait till someone makes one for your car. Sometimes you may think it will be easy to fab one up but when it comes down too it these after market companies spend a lot of money in the R&D of a sway bar or any performance part for your car. Just some input on the situation. </TD></TR></TABLE>
they dont have to be made of spring material. thta is just the easiest and cheapest way to mass produce them. making a home made antiroll bar lets you customize the rates.
they dont have to be made of spring material. thta is just the easiest and cheapest way to mass produce them. making a home made antiroll bar lets you customize the rates.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboEK9Coupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok I see. But if you use a piece of tubing, wouldn't that be to stiff of a anti-roll bar? </TD></TR></TABLE>
please clarify....you may have the wrong idea.
also about the steel type. 4130/40 is medium-carbon steel but you could use high-carbon which can be spring steel.
either way, youd be best off with 4130 since it is very common in tube form and very easily welded.
i could post up some stiffness formulas if anyone was interested in them.
you could use them and your spring rates to calculate roll stiffness or you could just relate a bar youd want to make to a known bar. you could make it lighter, and the same stiffness by varying the parameters in the equations.
please clarify....you may have the wrong idea.
also about the steel type. 4130/40 is medium-carbon steel but you could use high-carbon which can be spring steel.
either way, youd be best off with 4130 since it is very common in tube form and very easily welded.
i could post up some stiffness formulas if anyone was interested in them.
you could use them and your spring rates to calculate roll stiffness or you could just relate a bar youd want to make to a known bar. you could make it lighter, and the same stiffness by varying the parameters in the equations.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboEK9Coupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok I see. But if you use a piece of tubing, wouldn't that be to stiff of a anti-roll bar? </TD></TR></TABLE>
as mentioned above there is a commonly used formula that you can get from any suspension tuning book worth it's salt but the gist of it is torsional strength is based on the material used, whether it is hollow or solid, the length of the center section, and the length of the arms.
i know this type of bar seems very stiff but it will still flex. check out just about any production based race car and you will find this type of bar. if you want i can show you some examples in picture form. i have a few good ones of the rtr rsx and a couple pretty inventive porsche 911 set ups.
as mentioned above there is a commonly used formula that you can get from any suspension tuning book worth it's salt but the gist of it is torsional strength is based on the material used, whether it is hollow or solid, the length of the center section, and the length of the arms.
i know this type of bar seems very stiff but it will still flex. check out just about any production based race car and you will find this type of bar. if you want i can show you some examples in picture form. i have a few good ones of the rtr rsx and a couple pretty inventive porsche 911 set ups.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.E.G. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
as mentioned above there is a commonly used formula that you can get from any suspension tuning book worth it's salt but the gist of it is torsional strength is based on the material used, whether it is hollow or solid, the length of the center section, and the length of the arms.
i know this type of bar seems very stiff but it will still flex. check out just about any production based race car and you will find this type of bar. if you want i can show you some examples in picture form. i have a few good ones of the rtr rsx and a couple pretty inventive porsche 911 set ups.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
one other thing that i forgot to mention is that a hollow tubular bar is often lighter than solid "spring material" bar.
as mentioned above there is a commonly used formula that you can get from any suspension tuning book worth it's salt but the gist of it is torsional strength is based on the material used, whether it is hollow or solid, the length of the center section, and the length of the arms.
i know this type of bar seems very stiff but it will still flex. check out just about any production based race car and you will find this type of bar. if you want i can show you some examples in picture form. i have a few good ones of the rtr rsx and a couple pretty inventive porsche 911 set ups.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
one other thing that i forgot to mention is that a hollow tubular bar is often lighter than solid "spring material" bar.
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