OEM Brake Rotors- To Turn or Not? NEW Hawk Ceramic Pads!
Hawk Ceramic brake pads came, and i have decent life left on my OEM rotors-
(only about 50,000 miles on them- just daily driving)
i was told by Hawks website-
"Burnish them into the rotors, or they may not seat properly"
(supposedly causing you to perform another brake job sooner!)
but i was also told by some -Brake Guy's website-
"Dont turn your rotors, they thin, and get hotter, wear out and warp faster"
(supposedly causing you to perform another brake job sooner!)
Has anyone tried to "Burnish" ceramic pads into old- unturned OEM rotors?
if i can, i will... but if not, i'll get some new rotors,
and i guess i'll toss the "Still Useable" ones in the trash... but it seems like a waste!
thanks
(only about 50,000 miles on them- just daily driving)
i was told by Hawks website-
"Burnish them into the rotors, or they may not seat properly"
(supposedly causing you to perform another brake job sooner!)
but i was also told by some -Brake Guy's website-
"Dont turn your rotors, they thin, and get hotter, wear out and warp faster"
(supposedly causing you to perform another brake job sooner!)
Has anyone tried to "Burnish" ceramic pads into old- unturned OEM rotors?
if i can, i will... but if not, i'll get some new rotors,
and i guess i'll toss the "Still Useable" ones in the trash... but it seems like a waste!
thanks
You can get a set of brembo drilled and slotted rotors on ebay.... itll probably cost u about the same if u get them at autozone...... just that Brembos loooookkkk bomb *** F*%@
just get some new rotors from autozone, or napa. it doesnt really matter what kind of rotors you get brand wise. just remember, brakes are a wear item, and especially for a stock set-up, theres really no point in getting new rotors from bremo for $50 a piece when a $15 rotor from napa does the exact same job.
The hawk pads perform better than stock brakes, so that means that the material of the pad will be more 'harsh' on the rotors and cause more wear than stock pads.
oh and dont get cross drilled rotors, since that only decreases the braking surface, and our rotors are small enough as is.
The hawk pads perform better than stock brakes, so that means that the material of the pad will be more 'harsh' on the rotors and cause more wear than stock pads.
oh and dont get cross drilled rotors, since that only decreases the braking surface, and our rotors are small enough as is.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by da1lydr1ver »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The hawk pads perform better than stock brakes, so that means that the material of the pad will be more 'harsh' on the rotors and cause more wear than stock pads.
oh and dont get cross drilled rotors, since that only decreases the braking surface, and our rotors are small enough as is.</TD></TR></TABLE>
GREAT tips guys! We will get new rotors for sure then!
not going for "looks"
-living on a steep hill and have ABS!
i'm going for superior function (Hawk Ceramics)
Thanks a million,
God Bless!
oh and dont get cross drilled rotors, since that only decreases the braking surface, and our rotors are small enough as is.</TD></TR></TABLE>
GREAT tips guys! We will get new rotors for sure then!
not going for "looks"
-living on a steep hill and have ABS!
i'm going for superior function (Hawk Ceramics)
Thanks a million,
God Bless!
Like everyone has said it's worth it to get new rotors... I still find it funny now since some people have said one rotor is as good as another no matter what, everyone has jumped on the wagon...
I still believe one rotor can be inferior to another, it's all about process and materials used... but what would I know... just an e-mechanic
but I do know a thing or two about metal
I still believe one rotor can be inferior to another, it's all about process and materials used... but what would I know... just an e-mechanic
but I do know a thing or two about metal
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rushbuster70 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So basically hawk pads are ok with autozone rotors???</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes they are
yes they are
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thinknology »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Like everyone has said it's worth it to get new rotors... I still find it funny now since some people have said one rotor is as good as another no matter what, everyone has jumped on the wagon... </TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, i also think you are correct that there are better rotors out there than others. however, i honestly think in our case (stock set-up), it wouldnt make too much of a difference since we are not going after a 'high performance' type of set up. so, yes, i think rotor brand, etc. would matter more if you were looking to go performance or had a big brake kit.
however, i do a lot of road racing with my car, and since brakes are often replaced ever-so-often after a couple of events, it wouldnt make too much sense buying expensive rotors when the cheaper counterpart will do just fine. you'll see that many of the guys in Honda Challenge just use Napa brand rotors. i'm not saying that everyone should follow what they do, but if cheap rotors are good enough to race with, it should be good enough to daily drive with, imo.
yes, i also think you are correct that there are better rotors out there than others. however, i honestly think in our case (stock set-up), it wouldnt make too much of a difference since we are not going after a 'high performance' type of set up. so, yes, i think rotor brand, etc. would matter more if you were looking to go performance or had a big brake kit.
however, i do a lot of road racing with my car, and since brakes are often replaced ever-so-often after a couple of events, it wouldnt make too much sense buying expensive rotors when the cheaper counterpart will do just fine. you'll see that many of the guys in Honda Challenge just use Napa brand rotors. i'm not saying that everyone should follow what they do, but if cheap rotors are good enough to race with, it should be good enough to daily drive with, imo.
OK, maybe i should have explained this better-
Daily "Spirited" Driver- Honda civic Si (k20)
to be exact...
I'm no Racer, and i didn't want to replace my rotors for another 50,000 miles-
(that's why i went with ceramics +Lowwer dust also!)
but i do put up a good fight to those who challenge!
i drive on mountain roads for snowboarding/skiing, and to get home everyday!
so, i am looking for a little more performance than DD'ing...
WENT TO CHECKER AUTO- +he said to get the Nickle alloy Raybesto's for longevity! those were $49 a Peice!
...but he would have to order them, so i said F' it, gimme the cheapies
The Raybesto's rotors i got, were not the bottom line, one step up! and still only around $20 each.
i'll keep you updated on the outcome!
Thanks for all the help!
Daily "Spirited" Driver- Honda civic Si (k20)
to be exact...
I'm no Racer, and i didn't want to replace my rotors for another 50,000 miles-
(that's why i went with ceramics +Lowwer dust also!)
but i do put up a good fight to those who challenge!
i drive on mountain roads for snowboarding/skiing, and to get home everyday!
so, i am looking for a little more performance than DD'ing...
WENT TO CHECKER AUTO- +he said to get the Nickle alloy Raybesto's for longevity! those were $49 a Peice!
...but he would have to order them, so i said F' it, gimme the cheapies
The Raybesto's rotors i got, were not the bottom line, one step up! and still only around $20 each.
i'll keep you updated on the outcome!
Thanks for all the help!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by da1lydr1ver »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yes, i also think you are correct that there are better rotors out there than others. however, i honestly think in our case (stock set-up), it wouldnt make too much of a difference since we are not going after a 'high performance' type of set up. so, yes, i think rotor brand, etc. would matter more if you were looking to go performance or had a big brake kit.
however, i do a lot of road racing with my car, and since brakes are often replaced ever-so-often after a couple of events, it wouldnt make too much sense buying expensive rotors when the cheaper counterpart will do just fine. you'll see that many of the guys in Honda Challenge just use Napa brand rotors. i'm not saying that everyone should follow what they do, but if cheap rotors are good enough to race with, it should be good enough to daily drive with, imo.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Correct you are sir, but people need to realise that there can very well be a difference.
Another way to look at it.... they may be good enough to race with because they stop just the same. But think about this; If they you through them out after two races, you can't quite compare them to daily driving now can you. They may stop the same for the first couple hundred times, but what happens to the composition after 20k miles?
yes, i also think you are correct that there are better rotors out there than others. however, i honestly think in our case (stock set-up), it wouldnt make too much of a difference since we are not going after a 'high performance' type of set up. so, yes, i think rotor brand, etc. would matter more if you were looking to go performance or had a big brake kit.
however, i do a lot of road racing with my car, and since brakes are often replaced ever-so-often after a couple of events, it wouldnt make too much sense buying expensive rotors when the cheaper counterpart will do just fine. you'll see that many of the guys in Honda Challenge just use Napa brand rotors. i'm not saying that everyone should follow what they do, but if cheap rotors are good enough to race with, it should be good enough to daily drive with, imo.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Correct you are sir, but people need to realise that there can very well be a difference.
Another way to look at it.... they may be good enough to race with because they stop just the same. But think about this; If they you through them out after two races, you can't quite compare them to daily driving now can you. They may stop the same for the first couple hundred times, but what happens to the composition after 20k miles?
resurface the rotors or buy new ones don't put new pads on nonresurfsced rotors u will kill the pads, get the rotors resurfaced it is not the much money if u take them off your self and pay, 50k on rotors is like one brake job so u have plenty of rotor left, save money resurface the rotors if anything brembo blanks are not to bad on the wallet and they make a diference and drilled and slotted is not worth it they just cut down on your total braking surface and u will not get the brakes that hot to where u will need to vent off the heat my friend has blanks and they are next for me
best bet resurface the rotors
i do 4-10 brake jobs a week on hondas
best bet resurface the rotors
i do 4-10 brake jobs a week on hondas
thanks- they didn't even need to be replaced

moral of this thread =
I'M NO MECHANIC! -But when a mechanic tells you
"You need new rotors" ....
-check for yourself before you tackle this project!
i did the brake bleed- sanded them down a little (they were pretty smooth)
brake kleened them, and put the new pads on the oem back rotors
the front pads were still new... +4/5 of the pad still good! -bled the brakes and left those alone!
those must have been done last spring before i bought it.
Thanks for all the advice guys!
at least i still have all the stuff to do a complete brake job (minus back pads) at 100K miles
(or when it REALLY NEEDS it!)

moral of this thread =
I'M NO MECHANIC! -But when a mechanic tells you
"You need new rotors" ....
-check for yourself before you tackle this project!
i did the brake bleed- sanded them down a little (they were pretty smooth)
brake kleened them, and put the new pads on the oem back rotors
the front pads were still new... +4/5 of the pad still good! -bled the brakes and left those alone!
those must have been done last spring before i bought it.
Thanks for all the advice guys!
at least i still have all the stuff to do a complete brake job (minus back pads) at 100K miles
(or when it REALLY NEEDS it!)
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