Hi, i have 1994 honda accord and i'm trying to change my water pump. I have to unscrew the crank pulley bolt and the very nicely done "how to" thread in this forum says to use a 1/2 inch breaker bar. well i don't have one and i'm trying to save money. So is the 1/2 inch breaker bar or a 1/2 inch rachet necessary to unscrew the bolt?? I currently only have a 3/8 inch rachet. Is the 3/8 inch rachet with the use of a steel pipe not strong enough to unscrew the bolt? Will it break? I would really appreciate your inputs. I'm trying to gather my tools and do this job by this weekend or next. thanks..

 

If the tool has a lifetime warranty (Craftsman, Snap-On, etc.) then go ahead and give it a shot if you'd like but I'm 99.9999% certain it will break or twist the driving end right off.

When I first did this I didn't have a 19mm 1/2" drive socket so I figured it's craftsman so if it breaks no big deal. So I tried a 1/2"-3/8" adapter and using a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a 3/8" drive 19mm socket I twisted the adapter into two pieces fairly easily without even budging that bolt. So I returned the adapter for an exchange and then bought a 19mm 1/2" drive socket and it's worked great ever since.

You need some hefty tools for this part of the job and 1/2" would be the smallest I would recommend. Some have said they've used 3/4" drive tools but if you dont already have those it's cheaper to buy the 1/2" drive tools and they will do the job just fine.

Good luck and if you have any other questions just ask

 

My experiences with it say exactly what TouringAccord said. you'll prbably need 1/2 drive. Also, I wouldn't even bother trying it with a ratchet, as you'll likely strip the mechanism out on it. When I do them, I use 2 1/2in drive breaker bars, one to hold the crank pully tool and the other with a 19mm socket.

I understand trying to save money, but I always look at buying tools as an investment. They are expensive to buy, but you'll have them for a long time and you will be using them to save yourself money.

 

i broke my ratchet. go buy the necessary tool. end of story

 

I would not think a 3/8" drive ratchet will survive this task.

I'll be pulling my crank pulley this weekend as well to do the timing belt. I have an 18" 1/2" drive breaker bar and a 1/2" drive ratchet -- both Craftsman. I was concerned about breaking the ratchet (most used tool in my tool box) and went to get a longer (24-30") 1/2" breaker bar at Sears but the longest I could find was 18". I didn't really want to buy a second one so thought I'd just go with the ratchet... I'm rethinking that now.

The 19mm socket will be borrowed from the pneumatic tools drawer....

 

I use a 1/2" ratchet on the pulley holding tool, works good, haven't had any problems.

I use a 1/2" breaker bar and cheater pipe on the crank pulley bolt thought.

The longest 1/2" extension sears sells is a 20"
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_1...ories
(this is the one I use )

 

hey thanks alot guys..I guess i'll go buy a 1/2 inch breaker bar and save myself alot of trouble...thanks

 

do you guys turn the bolt CCW or CC? just in case so i wont be making it tighter than it already is. i have a 1/2" 18" ratchet and doing it out of the car is pretty tough.

 

you mean CCW or CW? It's a normally threaded bolt, so you would be turning it CCW to loosen the bolt.

And out of the car is much easier IMO, you dont have to deal with the extensions and that. I've done it both ways, and out of the car is easy, just have someone else hold the other tool instead of bracing it against the floor and make sure you both are on the correct sides to be pushing down and not lifting up. Lifting up will probably lift the engine stand, pushing down was much better.

 

YOU MIGHT GET IT TO WORK IF YOU DO A 3 POINT TORCH ON IT FIRST TO LOOSTEN IT UP, BUT IF YOU DON'T HAVE A 1/2 DRIVE WRENCH YOU PROLLIE DON'T HAVE A TORCH EITHER, THE CRANK PULLEY HOLDER TOOL IS HANDY TO HAVE IN THIS CASE ALSO, YOU CAN RENT IT FROM SOME AUTO PARTS STORES, GOOD LUCK.
GIBBY

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gibbythered &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">YOU MIGHT GET IT TO WORK IF YOU DO A 3 POINT TORCH ON IT FIRST TO LOOSTEN IT UP, BUT IF YOU DON'T HAVE A 1/2 DRIVE WRENCH YOU PROLLIE DON'T HAVE A TORCH EITHER, THE CRANK PULLEY HOLDER TOOL IS HANDY TO HAVE IN THIS CASE ALSO, YOU CAN RENT IT FROM SOME AUTO PARTS STORES, GOOD LUCK.
GIBBY</TD></TR></TABLE>

damn dude.. why do you always reply in caps..


and yeah, 3/8's will break or strip. then you'll need to buy 2 new tools if it doesn't have a warranty.. which would obviously cost you more than just going out and getting it.. but you might be able to rent one at autozone or something

 

the crank holder tool is a must when dealing with hondas from colder states or close to oceans since just a lil rust can make removing the crank bolt a 2 man 300lbs foot pound of torque job in a jiffy. so hers the link to the SPX tool for honda cranks:

http://www.etoolcart.com/index...=7869

then stop by a local autozone for a 1/2 inch drive 19mm deep impact socket and a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and your set.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you mean CCW or CW? It's a normally threaded bolt, so you would be turning it CCW to loosen the bolt.

And out of the car is much easier IMO, you dont have to deal with the extensions and that. I've done it both ways, and out of the car is easy, just have someone else hold the other tool instead of bracing it against the floor and make sure you both are on the correct sides to be pushing down and not lifting up. Lifting up will probably lift the engine stand, pushing down was much better.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i have tried pushing down, with a 4 foot breaker bar and it wont budge. the whole stand wanted to tilt, so locked the fly wheel with a wrench socket and a bolt (works great), and braced the engine against the wall with a very thick piece of wood. still wont budge. the only thing keeping the engine from spinning on the stand is a 3/8" pin, so I needed all those extra support to prevent it from snapping. and still doesnt work. i am running out of options, isnt this thing supposed to be torque down to 90lb/ft?