Has anyone delt with this company and in particular this kit itself ? According to pocketrocketsracing they are made in china. Not that thats bad its just that normally products from china are well....junk. However I havent heard anything bad about them either. Their are other companies that make stroker kits for the hseries however they are more expensive. I dont have a problem with paying more however that money spent has to equal more quality not just a better name. I have also heard crower makes a kit with a 102mm stroke however i havent seen it on their site....... ?

http://www.briancrower.com/view.php?pn=BC0036
http://www.briancrower.com/mak...shtml
http://pocketrocketsracing.com/mainchcrstki.html

 

Firstly, don't deal with pocketrockets, they're sketchy.

Brian Crower knows what he's doing. Email him if you want info on anything, I'm sure he'll help you out. I wouldn't spend the $$ on one of these though, I'd look into modifying a k24 crank to work with an h block. 99mm stroke = secks

 

yea i just read that off their site that they were china made, im not planning on buying anything from them.

 

i second that. After it's all said and done, look at what you get for your money. It doesn't take much to make a K24 swap a simpler, cheaper approach. A full stroker engine is very expensive.

 

well ive heard of many ppl with s2k's going k24 crank, and h22 pistons and rods. I cant really find much about people using them in an h22 block.


https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1683773

 

what are you trying to accomplish?

 

You're not going to "hear" anything about exactly what it takes, but you can make it work. Get a crank, take it and the block to a machine shop, check it out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Firstly, don't deal with pocketrockets, they're sketchy.

Brian Crower knows what he's doing. Email him if you want info on anything, I'm sure he'll help you out. I wouldn't spend the $$ on one of these though, I'd look into modifying a k24 crank to work with an h block. 99mm stroke = secks</TD></TR></TABLE>
Interesting.....

I remember seeing a build where they used an H series crank in a K series build. I wonder what that was all about!?

CROWER They'll never get $1 of my money. Thrilled to have sold the shortblock I had with Crower rods!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ::NirVTEC:: &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Interesting.....

I remember seeing a build where they used an H series crank in a K series build. I wonder what that was all about!? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Bore centers and main journal sizing being "compatible" has a lot to do with why you can interchange these cranks. I'd assume they were building a high rpm engine if they used an h22 crank.

 

I've heard about the interchangeability of cranks among H/F/K series. Would this also mean all the other rotating bits between H/K are also interchangeable? Like say, K24 rods on a H series crank? I believe the BE bores are the same size, but that's all the info I have. I guess you'd never know until you try...

 

K rods are more narrow than H rods, so no they won't work on an H crank.

The other way around could work though.

If you need rods, you can always offset grind for a bit extra stroke and use b rods.

...or just grind it down normally to use them, but who would want to do that?

 

Thanks Matt...for killing my dreams. J/K I do appreciate your input, but what do you mean by "narrow"? I'd imagine that "narrower" applies to B rods thus why the offset grind is required. Unless you meant to say that the K rods are broader on the big end...

Anyway to remain somewhat on topic. Isn't "Brian Crower" Separate from "Crower"?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ::NirVTEC:: &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I remember seeing a build where they used an H series crank in a K series build. I wonder what that was all about!?</TD></TR></TABLE>

What did they do about the oil pump?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ::NirVTEC:: &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Interesting.....

CROWER They'll never get $1 of my money. Thrilled to have sold the shortblock I had with Crower rods! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Crower is not the same as BC...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Televator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks Matt...for killing my dreams. J/K I do appreciate your input, but what do you mean by "narrow"? I'd imagine that "narrower" applies to B rods thus why the offset grind is required. Unless you meant to say that the K rods are broader on the big end...

Anyway to remain somewhat on topic. Isn't "Brian Crower" Separate from "Crower"?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Check this out, I got my info off Crower's website:

<u>BE Width:</u>
B series: .935"
H/F: .935"
K/F23: .780"
F20C: .940"

<u>BE Bore:</u>
B series/K20A3/F23: 1.890"
K20A/K24/H/F : 2.008"

So, in order to use B series rods on an H crank, you need to grind the excess .018" off, you can either grind on center, and simply shrink the journal. Or, you can offset grind, which means that you'll grind more off the inside of the journal and less off the outside, which will more the axis of rotation outward, which is an increase in stroke.

K24 rods are too narrow as you see, and there is no grind that can fix that. However, you can grind out a journal to be wider in order to fit a wider rod on the crank, like putting an H22 rod on a K24 crank

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What did they do about the oil pump?</TD></TR></TABLE>

They just regrind it to fit, I'm not sure of exactly the modification procedure, but I heard that the snout is all that needs to be changed. I wonder what you would encounter on the rear main/flywheel side though....

 

Oh, I see.

I totally get the concept of offset grinding, but I would feel nervous about removing material from such an integral area of the crank. Hell, knife edging counterweights makes me squeamish.

 

Knife edging is more dangerous than offset grinding rod journals IMO.

When you knife edge the crank, you're removing material from the counterweights, which 9/10 times a crank actually breaks, are what break.

The rod journal is still plenty strong at almost 2", **** v8s use BE sizes around the same as H22s do, and they have twice the stress put on them, plus the journals are wider, and they still hold up.

edited: I meant counterweights. not journals, in the knife edging part


Modified by mgags7 at 7:15 AM 10/31/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Knife edging is more dangerous than offset grinding rod journals IMO.

When you knife edge the crank, you're removing material from the journals, which 9/10 times a crank actually breaks, are what break.

The rod journal is still plenty strong at almost 2", **** v8s use BE sizes around the same as H22s do, and they have twice the stress put on them, plus the journals are wider, and they still hold up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Some good info in here guys

 

knife edging and journals? pretty sure you are removing material from the hammer to reduce weight and attempt to reduce windage losses...

 

^^That's what I meant by "counterweights". I'm sure Matt just had a slip of the tongue.

 

interesting. However how much is machine work for that going to run ?

 

Frank buys his 100mm stroker from BC.

 

the ol slip of the fingers. but yeah, counterweights is what I meant.

Scott (2point6) recently did an f23 crank + offset grind to use b series size rods and he got 97.75mm of stroke when all was said and done. Check out his build thread, it was floating around here not too long ago.

Machine work on stuff like this can get expensive, find a good shop. Castillos does good work in Cali.