well im saving to swap in a gsr into my new eg. im probably going to drop it first i just cant think of the things i need before i swap it or if anyone suggests anything i should do to it first.
appearance wise im done with my car other than the drop. and since im going to be tucking
i was wondering if you think i should get a sway bar and strut bar for my car first so i dont rub and all that?
and im going to do a gsr rear disc brake setup before i swap it as well. i was just wondering if anyone knew of anything else i should do before i swap it?
thanks

 

a larger sway bar (or one in the rear period) or strut bars will not help you when it comes to rubbing with an extreme drop.

You don't need to upgrade to rear disk brakes, if you are building it for a fun street car that sometimes goes to the drags i'd keep the drums anyway, they are slightly lighter, the one major flaw they have compared to disks is heat dissipation but unless you are doing road courses or powering through autoX tracks this isn't a major concern.

I'd say finishing up the swap i would just replace the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter and look over the timing belt/water pump if not replace to check the condition.

good luck

 

its just going to be a street car and every once in a while take it to the drags like you said.
you really dont think i need to do a rear disc brake setup? just stock brakes are okay? when i just got my last brake job they said it was the last time they could resurface my rotors so i wouldneed new ones next time. do you think i should up grade to drilled/slotted rotors and more heavy duty break pads? a lot of people say you need the discs in the rear when getting a b18c1 put in. but if i dont then id definately rather save the money

 

no you don't need a rear disk brake swap.

for a street car, i'd stay away from cross drilled and slotted rotors...since they are better at dissipating heat they may not warp, but if they do you have to replace them as they can not be machined. As you said the car being a street car with light track duty the braking difference between stock rotors and cross drilled/ slotted would be most likely unnoticeable. An idea for better brakes that is easy would be to upgrade to either a 15/16" or 1" master cylinder.

 

wow im happy now that im pretty sure i wont need the rear disc brake setup. ifi eventually make my car faster i definately will right?
but what do you think about upgrading pads then?
and for just normal new rotors
are there any recomendations? brembo blanks?

 

for better brake pads i'd suggest the Hawk HPS brake pads, or the more aggressive Hawk HP+ brake pads...the HP+ are under $60 while the HPS's come in at just under $45

 

will the pads give me a noticeable difference? and if its worth it then im fine with spending the extra 15 bucks on better pads.do u think its worth it?

 

do the hx+ pads make you stop faster? or are they just more heavy. like they will last longer to heavy braking?
im not doing any autox or ne thing that would use a lot of braking other than street use.

 

i had power slot rotors and hawk hps pads on my old civic, thing could stop on a dime
def recomend the hps pads!

 

Depending on how many miles are on the swap, Id change out the clutch, resurface the flywheel, and replace the rear main seal..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skcivic4life &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had power slot rotors and hawk hps pads on my old civic, thing could stop on a dime
def recomend the hps pads!</TD></TR></TABLE>
do u think that i should get slotted rotors cuz ill need new rotors anyway? or should i just go for some good pads?


Modified by jxhxb at 4:28 PM 10/29/2007

 

get invisible rotors for maximum braking capabilities

 

^n i c e.

 

you wont have to upgrade to rear disc if its only going to be a once in a while track car. Best bet for better braking, as it has probably already been stated will come from better pads, maybe a new set of rotors on the front, though not necessarily drilled and slotted. Also more than likely already stated, bigger master cylinder. If none of the above, get the rotors turned, provide a better braking surface, etc. Other than that, if your going to swap your engine in, new electricals will help, plugs, wires, etc. If your putting a higher torque setup, motor mounts might be a suggestion. What plans do you have post swap, engine wise?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KSWEST &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you wont have to upgrade to rear disc if its only going to be a once in a while track car. Best bet for better braking, as it has probably already been stated will come from better pads, maybe a new set of rotors on the front, though not necessarily drilled and slotted. Also more than likely already stated, bigger master cylinder. If none of the above, get the rotors turned, provide a better braking surface, etc. Other than that, if your going to swap your engine in, new electricals will help, plugs, wires, etc. If your putting a higher torque setup, motor mounts might be a suggestion. What plans do you have post swap, engine wise?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you should have just quoted me lmao

 

about how much do you think new master cylinders would cost?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FORCEFEDFERIO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should have just quoted me lmao</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yah, sorry about that, i was at work and the computers there are garbage so it wouldn't load the whole page for me. Funny though

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jxhxb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">about how much do you think new master cylinders would cost?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I dunno, i've seen them for about 250, I don't know about anyone else though, I haven't been in the tuner scene quite as long as I have been into other vehicle scenes so my sources are limited on finding parts and prices. Just a rough estimate though.

 

wow thats more than i thought. do you think i should get a new master cylinder or do u think just getting new brembo blanks and hawk hp+ pads will be fine?

andi heard that the hp+ wear out fast. or is that if your into auto x and stuff?

 

yes for a brand new one http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com is around $200....could probably be found cheaper though.