I found out today that my engine oil cooler seal/gasket is bad (pouring oil) when ever I crank the car up. It started as a small leak, to now a free flow of oil leaking from the gasket/engine.

Does anyone know what size socket I need to remove the nut holding the oil cooler on, directly behind the filter on the block??? I've searched, and I've also checked my manual.
This is my only ride, and I have only tomorrow to fix it, before I have to go back to work. I tried a 26mm and it's to small.

Also do you guys think that advance or auto zone would carry the seal?

Thanks......

 

it is a simple o-ring, so you may be able to find one at auto zone.

The size is 32mm if I remember correctly, it has been posted on here before, I just can't remember where...

Good luck

 

Thanks a bunch Matt,

Just one more ?, and I'll leave you be.

I did a little searching and I read that it was a "30mm". Hopefully autozone will have the 30mm or 32mm, and the ring.

I can't believe something as simple as that little seal would cause that much drainage of oil. I lost at least 2 quarts just letting the engine warm up this morning. I hope the suckers not cracked on the cooler housing.

Some say that you have to drain the coolant and disconnect the two lines at the top.....I don't see where that's needed, do you?

Thanks again,

-Shadow-

 

You should be able to just undo the shaft that runs through the middle, pull the cooler up a little, and put the new o-ring on.

You should be able to do it with the coolant lines still on there, I did.

Make sure the mating surfaces are clean before you put it back on.

 

mine is leaking to. Just ordered the gasket earlier today. Went from never having to add oil between my 6k mile intervals to adding half a quart

 

When I had my belts changed a few months ago the dealership found that my oil cooler was shooting out oil as well. I've had my oil light come on twice since then and its been near bone dry both times. They fixed three leaks and I took it back and had them look it over while on a lift after the light came on the first time, "oh nothing is leaking, all your seals are dry" and it came back on again today. I might need to check my o-ring. I cannot figure out what is leaking?
Sorry to give a story but I don't know what the hell is wrong with my car!

 

Firstly, don't drive with the oil light on.

Is your oil actually low still when the light is flashing?

 

Well it doesn't stay on... It's just blinked on both times going around a turn (both in my neighborhood strangely enough?) and I shut the car off immediately, check the oil and it's VERY low. I'm not sure where it could be leaking, car has new oil pan gasket, new oil cooler (o-ring, or a whole new oil cooler? need to check paperwork), and cam seals were replaced also. If "all my seals are dry" where could it be leaking from? No visible leaks under the car.

EDIT:
This is what the paperwork I have says.
In a nutshell:
"oil seal qty:2"
"o-ring 6 qty:1"
"adjuster qty:1"
I think it was just the o-ring leaking and they replaced it and the seals.

Oil leaks=

 

Yup....I check my oil almost daily.

I new I had a small leak in the past, but it wasn't but a drip here and there.

Than it got to where the dripping on the exhaust man. was so bad I could see smoke at a stop light.

I took it to a friend that worked at "speedy", he put the car on the lift, and said here's your problem...

"You've got the wrong oil filter on, look at the size of the oil filter gasket". I was kind of skeptical...but I wasn't going to argue, he gave me a brand new for nothing.

I checked my oil level this morning before I started it and I had to add a 1/2 quart.

After letting it warm up for approx. 8 min, I had at least 2 quarts that drained on the ground. Oil light came on shortly after a 15 min. drive around town. Bone dry on the stick.

God I hope it's the oil cool seal, I can't afford to lay out of work another day to work on her.

By the way, the filter I'm using is the 3593A FRAM.....He was wrong, that's what I had on right in the first place.

Take care all...and thanks again Matt. Hopefully it's an easy fix.

-Shadow-

 

Just a word to pass along, Fram filters suck. That's not your oil leaking problem but don't buy another one.

 

Fram filters are fine if you change your oil every 3k.

If you want to get the full life out of synthetic oil go for a nicer filter that can last 5k or more.

ECX, put a piece of cardboard under the car and see if it leaks on it. If it isn't leaking, then you're burning a ton of oil.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
ECX, put a piece of cardboard under the car and see if it leaks on it. If it isn't leaking, then you're burning a ton of oil.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll park it for a few days after tomorrow and see if it leaks. If not, it's probably burning because of my rings, I'm going to guess?

 

Well either bad rings, leaky valve stem seals, or a seriously screwed headgasket can cause oil consumption.

Not that it would cause this big of a problem, but make sure your pcv system is in good working order as well.

 

Matt,

I finished the fix on the oil cooler seal. That was my problem, it was split right in half.

I rented the (30mm) socket from auto zone ($15.00, with a 100% refund returned), and had to pick up the O-ring from Honda for around $3.00.

Once I got the right socket, it took 10 minutes, so far, no leaks.....from that area anyway.

Thanks for the replies man,

-Shadow-

 

Failed to mention this man.

The O-ring that I purchased from the dealership could most

probably be picked up at a local hardware store. It's just a simple O-ring, nothing special. Mine was so warn that I couldn't tell.

Also there is no need to drain the 2 coolant lines on the housing. The most important tool is the 30mm to remove the oil filter shaft that attaches to the block.

A major problem, but an easy fix!

 

 

Update...
I got to get my car on the lift at school today and look underneath, went ahead and changed my oil with a new filter. I'm running non-synthetic this time and see if it helps. All my seals are dry, nothing is leaking? No clue as to what could be happening. My oil pressure switch had a *drop* of oil on it, that's about it.
I can see how my car's oil pump being messed up (what I'm assuming is the reason for my bearings) could cause lower oil pressure and get the oil light to come on, but this doesn't explain why when I check my dipstick I had VERY little oil.
When I drained it today, it seemed like 4+ quarts came out though, which it didn't have for the past few days since the light came on. I only had one spare quart to put in it and no money to buy more oil. It was under the line on the dipstick. But all of the oil came out?
This is bugging the **** out of me.

 

It's possible that you may have a bad oil pressure sensor, it's confusing the oil light somehow. I've read about your problem somewhere, I just can't remember, where.
I'll check and see what I can find.
-Shadow-

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1919882
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1843607

There you go Matt

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shadow29485 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> It's possible that you may have a bad oil pressure sensor, it's confusing the oil light somehow. I've read about your problem somewhere, I just can't remember, where.
I'll check and see what I can find.
-Shadow-</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well the thing that throws me for a loop is, the oil light comes on which be one thing if it was a bad pressure switch. But when I check the dipstick the oil is below the minimum fill line. Try like 2mm up from the very bottom of the dipstick.
Then I drained it the other day at school and it seemed like a good bit of oil came out. I have no idea what is going on.