H.I.D
They're all just as "bright." It's not the K's the measures a light's "brightness," but rather its lumens. The K rating is simply the colour output of the light (4300K is OEM, 6000K is OEM w. bluish tint, 8000K is bluish purple, 10,000K is you're a complete moron - who in their right minds would do that purple).
Now, if you are asking about glaring the heck out of the opposing driver or the person in front of you, then the above poster has it correct, that would be the 10,000K HID.
Now, if you are asking about glaring the heck out of the opposing driver or the person in front of you, then the above poster has it correct, that would be the 10,000K HID.
Sounds like you're getting a "plug and play" kit. 
If your hid's aren't out of a junk car then your light will suck regardless of the "kelvin" of the output.

If your hid's aren't out of a junk car then your light will suck regardless of the "kelvin" of the output.
What a lot of you are missing is the inverse relation between kelvins and lumins.
The higher the kelvins, the lower the lumins. So technically, if you had an equally powered light source that would put off light at 10 kelvins, it'd have a **** TON of lumins ... you just wouldn't be able to see them, because they'd be infra red/violet.
4300K is the ideal color temperature. It puts off the truest white light and provides the most without distorting color or losing depth. Any more yellow, you lose contrast. And more blue, and you start getting dimmer.
The higher the kelvins, the lower the lumins. So technically, if you had an equally powered light source that would put off light at 10 kelvins, it'd have a **** TON of lumins ... you just wouldn't be able to see them, because they'd be infra red/violet.
4300K is the ideal color temperature. It puts off the truest white light and provides the most without distorting color or losing depth. Any more yellow, you lose contrast. And more blue, and you start getting dimmer.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eran »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What a lot of you are missing is the inverse relation between kelvins and lumins.
The higher the kelvins, the lower the lumins. So technically, if you had an equally powered light source that would put off light at 10 kelvins, it'd have a **** TON of lumins ... you just wouldn't be able to see them, because they'd be infra red/violet.
4300K is the ideal color temperature. It puts off the truest white light and provides the most without distorting color or losing depth. Any more yellow, you lose contrast. And more blue, and you start getting dimmer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I love you Eran.
The higher the kelvins, the lower the lumins. So technically, if you had an equally powered light source that would put off light at 10 kelvins, it'd have a **** TON of lumins ... you just wouldn't be able to see them, because they'd be infra red/violet.
4300K is the ideal color temperature. It puts off the truest white light and provides the most without distorting color or losing depth. Any more yellow, you lose contrast. And more blue, and you start getting dimmer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I love you Eran.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pynikal »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">function=4300k HID retrofit
rice=3000K - 20000K HID Plug 'n' Play
you choose.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Fixed that for you.
rice=3000K - 20000K HID Plug 'n' Play
you choose.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Fixed that for you.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ke98248 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What's the advantages of an HID retrofit vs plug N play?</TD></TR></TABLE>
HID retrofits involve installing HID-optic projectors into your stock headlamp. These projector housings were designed specifically for the amount of light put out by a D2S HID bulb. Properly installing a HID retro will give you a perfect cutoff and maximum efficiency in light output.
Plug 'n' Play kits are rebased D2R bulbs that are installed in a stock halogen reflector housing. These kits are generally poorly made, and the light put out by them overpowers the stock reflector. This causes a poor cutoff, glare, hot spots / cold spots, and a generally unpleasant environment for you and everyone else on the road.
HID retrofits involve installing HID-optic projectors into your stock headlamp. These projector housings were designed specifically for the amount of light put out by a D2S HID bulb. Properly installing a HID retro will give you a perfect cutoff and maximum efficiency in light output.
Plug 'n' Play kits are rebased D2R bulbs that are installed in a stock halogen reflector housing. These kits are generally poorly made, and the light put out by them overpowers the stock reflector. This causes a poor cutoff, glare, hot spots / cold spots, and a generally unpleasant environment for you and everyone else on the road.

http://stores.ebay.com/HID-Outdoor-Equipments
i have some friends that have bought from this store and they love them, i'm going to be buying some from them for my civic and for my daily driver.
i can post up pics comparing my buddies lights if u want, its on an sonoma but still shows the difference.
he got 6,000k
i had a 4300k plug and play kit in my eg and at first there was alot of "scattering" of the light and i emailed the place that i got them and they suggested a shield for the light that goes around the bulb and after i installed that there was a very straight blunt line were the lights cut off. forgot the name of the shelid but it worked great!! but i do agree if you are going to go HID do a retrofit. that is just my experince with HIDs.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cb7tougeracer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my guess would be 10,000k</TD></TR></TABLE> lol nope
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