I am hopefully taking my car for an alignment this weekend ..

What spec should I get?

06
lowered on espelirs
18x7.5 +50 / 18x8.5 +52
225/255

rear rubs only a high speed dips and fast turns

Someone suggested

-2 in the front and -3 in the rear ...

any suggestions?

TIA

 

that pretty much max camber IIRC. i would max it, just to be on the safe side w/ 225/255. FYI, i'm running 245 +53 in the rear with no rubbing. about 1.5 in. drop.

 

thats not max camber.... i was set at -3.5 rear -3 front but back it off a lil...

 

so would this camber give me even tire wear still? HOpefully i wont have to roll de fenders

 

with my 2 front 3 rear i go even wear

 

thanks santos

what about the caster and ohter stuff (sorry not too familiar w/ alignment stuff )

 

have them do it to S@nt0s spec...

basically a UK spec alignment but with 2 degrees front 3 rear...

here u go

Front:
Caster Left = 6 degrees 45"
Caster Right = 6 degrees 45"
Camber Left = -2 degree 00"
Camber Right = -2 degree 00"
Toe Left = 0
Toe Right = 0
Total Toe = 0

Rear:
Camber Left = -3 degrees 00"
Camber Righ = -3 degrees 00"
Toe Left = 0 degrees 20"
Toe Right = 0 degrees 20"
Total Toe = 0 degrees 40

 

I will write that down santos ..

May I ask whats the difference between a UK alignment and say .. a US? What does it do and why the difference?

 

caster and camber are both different

 

but what does that do?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A08_MThrizzle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but what does that do? </TD></TR></TABLE>

more (positive) caster: steering quickness, and straight line stability. More road feedback. More steering effort (the car will want to track straight). Caster also changes the camber/toe curve as the steering wheel is turned. If you want to imagine caster, think about a chopper's front wheel. They have massive positive caster.

More (negative) camber: Proper loading of the tires during cornering.

I dont wear out my (street) tires very evenly with -3 degrees rear camber. The S2000 has a 6mm toe in for the rear. You're really really facilitating tire wear by adding camber. But the car handles great, and I only drove mine 8k miles this year.

My track tires are wearing VERY evenly, though. The negative camber helps wear them out more evenly if you're cornering hard all the time.

My alignment is -2.5 front and -3 rear (camber). Stock toe. Caster as far out as it will go...I think it was like +5.5 to +6 degrees IIRC.

 

Thanks B Serious ...


So what do you suggest the camber to be to not add on tire wear but keep me from slightly rubbing only at high speed dips?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A08_MThrizzle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks B Serious ...


So what do you suggest the camber to be to not add on tire wear but keep me from slightly rubbing only at high speed dips?</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats dependant on driving style..

 

How about moderate? (somewhere between normal snoozer and insane in the membrane)

 

keep the factory ones or UK's and adjust your camber accordingly... unless you know what you want the car to do you dont have a need to change it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A08_MThrizzle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How about moderate? (somewhere between normal snoozer and insane in the membrane)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well add just enough camber to clear your fender lip. That will be the minimum you can run.

Or crush your fender lip. That might be a good solution also depending on how much camber you have to add.

 

The thing im not sure of santos and Bserious .. is what benefits do you get for the UK vs. the US. Sorry if you said it somewhere and i missed it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A08_MThrizzle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The thing im not sure of santos and Bserious .. is what benefits do you get for the UK vs. the US. Sorry if you said it somewhere and i missed it </TD></TR></TABLE>

read what bserious told you.Im pretty sure Uk specs are more aggressive than US specs, so put that into affect with what Bserious said and you have your answer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A08_MThrizzle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">rear rubs only a high speed dips and fast turns
</TD></TR></TABLE>

have you figured out what exactly rubs in the rear?

its probably the bumper screw, where the bumper meets the fender 1/4 panel. most ppl grind it down and relocate that screw. the rubbing issue is solved.


as for alignment suggestions, i think original UK alignment works fine. hard to get more camber than 2 degrees EQUAL in the rear without an extra camber kit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A08_MThrizzle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The thing im not sure of santos and Bserious .. is what benefits do you get for the UK vs. the US. Sorry if you said it somewhere and i missed it </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by S@nt0s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have them do it to S@nt0s spec...

basically a UK spec alignment but with 2 degrees front 3 rear...

here u go

Front:
Caster Left = 6 degrees 45"
Caster Right = 6 degrees 45"
Camber Left = -2 degree 00"
Camber Right = -2 degree 00"
Toe Left = 0
Toe Right = 0
Total Toe = 0

Rear:
Camber Left = -3 degrees 00"
Camber Righ = -3 degrees 00"
Toe Left = 0 degrees 20"
Toe Right = 0 degrees 20"
Total Toe = 0 degrees 40
</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by S@nt0s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">caster and camber are both different</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

more (positive) caster: steering quickness, and straight line stability. More road feedback. More steering effort (the car will want to track straight). Caster also changes the camber/toe curve as the steering wheel is turned. If you want to imagine caster, think about a chopper's front wheel. They have massive positive caster.

More (negative) camber: Proper loading of the tires during cornering.

I dont wear out my (street) tires very evenly with -3 degrees rear camber. The S2000 has a 6mm toe in for the rear. You're really really facilitating tire wear by adding camber. But the car handles great, and I only drove mine 8k miles this year.

My track tires are wearing VERY evenly, though. The negative camber helps wear them out more evenly if you're cornering hard all the time.

My alignment is -2.5 front and -3 rear (camber). Stock toe. Caster as far out as it will go...I think it was like +5.5 to +6 degrees IIRC. </TD></TR></TABLE>

To put it very simply:

The UK spec alignment has more negative camber and more positive caster.

Read what I said above for advantages of both.

Santos' alignment is basically his own camber specs, stock toe specs, and more caster.

Since you're rubbing and you might need more camber, just have them adjust the camber till the wheels clear the fender lip. There's no need to go more agressive on camber unless you plan to corner hard a lot.

Caster being more positive really only gives good effects in this case (around +6 degrees). So just have them put caster as far positive as they can...which should be around +6 degrees. Dont go too much more than that.