Well....The problem is back and I need some help.

I recently replaced the Ingition Switch and happened to get the car started. Once it was started it ran perfect. But GETTING it started is the problem now b/c it seems like it is getting too much fuel...

Everything is working/testing as it should:

Main Relay - clicks as it should and tests perfect
ECU - comes on and works fine
Ignition Switch - new, works as it should
Fuel - pump comes on and injectors spray (maybe too rich)
Ignition - New cap, rotor, wires and plugs (sparking at the plugs)
Coil - replaced 1 year ago (tests perfect on multimeter)
Timing - set #1 to TDC and everything is good on timing
Electrical - full battery no blown fuses

When I go to start the car I can smell quite a bit of gas making me think when it is trying to start its getting TOO much fuel (I've checked for leaks and there are none). The weird thing is, is if I happen to get it started it runs like a champ. But when it is switched off its hard getting it started again. The two times I had it running it would throw 1 engine code (6 - ECT). This could be causing the gas mixture to be too high b/c the ECU doesn't know the temp of the engine. I replaced the one on the passenger side of the engine towards the front of the car (which should be the one that sends to the ECU) and it did not help at all. It is still having a hard time started. I turned the key to 'On' and tested voltage at the harness for the sensor and it was reading 5 volts on a cold engine (which should be somewhat correct). When I had it running it was not overheating and the fans came on as they should. I even tried unplugging the sensor to put the ECU in limp mode and make it give the engine less gas, and it is still having a hard time starting...

Can anyone think of anything else it could be?
(this is an origonal 91 civic dx 255k miles)

As always....THANKS!

 

could be ur pump which one do u have on the car?? cause it's flooding ur pistons having a hard time starting.

 

It's the stock fuel pump on the car (unless it has been replaced by a previous owner)....

When the Water Temp Sensor is unplugged from the harness, I can't smell the gas like before with it plugged in...


From what I've read these code 6's suck and most people don't have luck finding help...

 

That's the only thing I haven't checked...I was going to go ahead and change the fuel filter sometime soon and check the fuel pressure then.

If an igniter was going out, would it cause a weak spark or no spark at all? My neighbor thinks the spark was looking a little weak, but when I get it started it runs at 100% so it makes me think that spark is not an issue.

 

Most likely it has a break in the wiring to CTS..
ie:coolant temperature sensor..

The ecu thinks the engine is cold and dumps large amounts of fuel
when in reality it is hot which causes a flooding condition..

I had to repair my harness just a couple of inches from the connector
as the wires were frayed just from age and movement..

If it has any repair in line,even if soldered and heat-shrunk,
It can be affected by corrosion..The corrosion alters the resistance
therefore giving the ECU a bad signal...

If you can't find a bad spot you may have to use an ohm meter
and test the entire wire between the CTS connector and the connector
to the ecu..

Diagnosing this condition on a nissan truck,
We hooked a "noid" light to one of the injectors..
Where ordinarily the flash looked short and faint,

Under the described condition,
the noid light was much brighter (like a camera flash)
for a much longer duration than normal..

 

I suspect you ought to check your fuel pressure. I had a problem that ran me crazy because the fuel pressure regulator got stuck and the fuel pressure was to high. It ended up blowing a partial hole in the fuel line, inside the tank, so that sometimes it would start, sometimes it would run, sometimes it would die. The fuel return line should have some fuel coming out of it, when you have turned the ignition switch on, several times.

 

Hmmm...I noticed about 1mm behind the connect there is puncture in both wires (it looks as if they were pinched between something at some point). But when tested with a multimeter they are still pulling around the right amount of volts. I thought about rewiring the connector, but considering that there isn't much wire to work with I was thinking about trying all other options before doing so...

Would this cause it not to work correctly? Even though it's pulling power as it should?

Thanks for the idea!

 

Remember that a complete circuit requires three things..
1. a Power source..
2. a proper ground
3. a load of some sort ie: resistance in between the two..
Otherwise it will be a "dead short."

That said,you have checked for power,
{which may or may not remain constant based on the condition of the wire}
The ground must also be in proper order to complete the circuit..

The sending unit itself should also be considered
but if the wiring is compromised,
That is probably the source of the problem..

Trust me when I tell you I have encountered
this problem more than once..
In all observed cases,the wiring/connection was to blame.

 

Thanks for the advice!

Now it sounds like you have done this task a time or two! You have any words of wisdom on rewiring this? It doesn't look like fun b/c I don't see alot of wire to work with.

Thanks again!

 

If you can find an extra connector at the junk yard go that route..

The dealership might be able to get a
new pigtail for it but I'm not sure on that..

I obtained a portain of the engine harness when I got my B16
so I used the wiring and connector that I salvaged from that
and spliced it into the harness..

Solder and heat-shrink using the heat shrink
with a internal resin/epoxy type sealer inside if you can find it..