Car was Tuned at Trick Engineering in Hew Hampshire using Hondata S200. My Goal was to get 200whp and 150 lbs of Tq. My Goal was not reached but I did get close putting down 190whp and 140 lbs. of Tq. Lately, I've been thinking that maybe the Car was not tuned to its full potential considering the amount of stuff I have done to the Motor.

Now, I know absolutely nothing about tuning but here are a few things I noticed when the Car was Tuned.

1. Cam Gears were never touched.
2. Fuel Pressure regulator was never touched

I always thought that when a Car was being Tuned more Power could be made by adjusting the Cam Gears accordingly. Also, wouldn't ******* around with the Fuel Pressure Regulator bring in more fuel in turn making more Power?

Recently I've been thinking about going somewhere else to get my Car tuned and see if I can reach my initial Goal but this time replacing the DC Header with an AN-R Header.

Looking at my Mod list, does it seem like I should be making more Power then I am? Or does that seem about right? Also, like said before about me not knowing anything about Tuning, how does the A/F Ratio look? Does the Dyno Sheet look good? Am I making Power in the right places? The Car is built for Auto-X and Road Racing. I also am equipped to Rev past 9K but obviously am not making any Power out there, but would making Power in that High range be necessary?

If anyone has any info or recommendations on what I need to do to achieve my goal please post and let me know.

Honda B18c1 Block (GSR) Bored .020 Over
JDM CTR .020 Overbore Pistons and Rings
Honda B18c1 (GSR) Crankshaft
Honda B18c1 (GSR) Rods
ACL Rod and Main Bearings
JDM CTR Water Pump
JDM CTR Crankshaft Pulley
OEM Style Head Gasket
Honda B16 (Si) Head
ARP Headbolts
Supertech Nitrate Coated High Compression Valves
Portflow Bronze Maganese Valve guides
Eibach Valvesprings
Skunk2 Titanium Retainers
Buddy Club Spec 3 Cams
Buddy Club P1 Cam Gears
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
PasswordJDM Intake Manifold Gasket
Precision 440cc Fuel Injectors
Walbro 255L Fuel Pump
J’s Racing Carbon Fiber Intake
DC Sports JDM ITR Stainless 4-1 Header
Apexi World Sport 2 Catback Exhaust
Mr. Gasket Copper Exhaust Manifold Gasket
AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator
Cusco 9mm Oil Catch Can
NGK Spark Plugs



Ant

 

Too much compression IMO and a very small cam, Your lucky you got what you did...

Your parts list looks liek a thrown together muck mess.

Any track times?

 

Yea, its High Compression but I don't see anything wrong with a High Compression N/A Motor. When other people build N/A Motors are they keeping the Compression low? I donno, I thought my Compression was the norm for this type of build. Whats wrong with having High Compression? Does it not allow you to make more Horse Power? Cams too small too? At that time the BC Spec 4's weren't out but I bet those would have been a better Cams to run. Please explain.

Not really thrown together. Basically what was ready to me at the time. Long story short, Car was my Daily and the Motor blew and I needed it fixed quick.

Car wasn't built for 1/4 Tracks. Car ran a 15.4 Stock though.

My First and only run this Year at Auto-X was 81 Seconds. Other Hondas were running anywhere from 75 - 85 Seconds.

 

Your closer to 13:1 c/r You have to take the incresed compression height of the pistons into account. And the valves give you a small bump.

The BC3 cams are a stage 1 cam similar in power to Stock ITR's. Not a bad cam at all but they are intended for mild builds, You would net much greater results with a bigger cam, better intake, better header, better exhaust. Sell your fuel pressure regulator and put your stock unit back on, its likely to give you more problems than anything its not needed for your build.

When I stated your items looked thrown together it was because you have five different brands in your valvetrain alone. Its best to stick with one manufacurter as they are made to work together the best. ESP the springs and retainers.

 

Yea, aren't the BC 3 Cams similar to Skunk2 Stage 1 Cams? At the time those were the best Cams I could afford. Biggest too. I got them at a steal, $600 for the Cams and Cam Gears shipped. Now, If I went with a Bigger Cam, would the BC 4's work well? Header, got that covered. I was thinking of upgrading to an AN-R. Intake? I really didn't think an intake would do much in the first place. I have a J's Racing Intake but I am actually in the middle of selling it and just running an OEM Air Box with a K&N Drop in Filter. Exhaust? I also thought that wouldn't really matter. What would you recommend for a different Intake and Exhaust and why? Yea, I had the Fuel Pressure Regulator from my old Civic and decided to just throw it on. This was on way before the build even started. Do they really do anything? Is it something that could gain me more Power during a Tune if adjustments are made?

Yea, I do have different brands. I initially planned on going with all Buddy Club parts but I started spending so much Money I was running out. So I basically started to get what I could afford.

 

Also, how would I go about figuring out the EXACT or close to Compression Ratio?

 

http://www.clubcivicquebec.com....php Will get you close on the compression

Intake I would start off with a AEM ITR 3" and add a velocity stack

Header AN-R has been known for a while to have problems If your on a budget look into a TRI-Y (search and you will find)

Exhaust I would recommend something a little more free flowing than a World Sport, I wold stay away from Apexi all together.

Just a few thoughts...

 

Yea, close to 13:1 lol

What about running a OEM Air Box with a Drop In Filter? Is that any good? What about running an ebay cheapo intake with the Velocity stack? Also, when you say Velocity Stack your saying replace the Filter with the V Stack right?

Did a search on the Tri-Y Header and this looks like it fits my budget and will help alot

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2102570

Whats a pretty good free flowing Exhaust? How about that straight through extremely loud Buddy Club Exhaust lol

 

Ok, so I decided I'm just going to pick up a 3" Short Ram intake and put on a bpi Velocity Stack and k&n Filter.

Now, when I'm racing my Car at Auto-X and other Events, can i remove the Filter so just the Velocity Stack is there? Maybe put some mesh or panty hose over it so nothing gets in . . . .

 

you have portflow valve guides, why not have it ported while you were at it?

change those cams, have tom port your head, yes; run a velocity stack with a 3inch intake and stick that anr header in there...you'll be golden...

 

I didn't have a Port ad Polish done because I did not have the Money at the time. Wish I did it though.

I'm not gonna change the Cams though. I don't really have the extra Money to spend on another set of Cams. Maybe if I sell the BC3's I can use the Money towards BC4's? What Cam would be best to use? Who is Tom and how can I find more info about Him doing a Port and Polish? Going with the Tri-Y Header I see for Sale instead of AN-R.

 

those are some pretty good numbers. I had mine dynoed there as well but made alot less power.

My setup is blox p1 cams, gsr head (milled .015), blox mani, 310rc injectors, 65mm tb, pr3 pistons (82mm), supertech flat valves, jdm itr 4-1 header, 2.5in cat back w/cat, aem 3" intake. Car put down 174.4 whp 121 lb tourque. Cam gears were untouched as well. Tuned on hondata s300. Not really happy with the numbers, expected it to make more power. Plan on saving up some money and having tbone retune it once i put on the try y header and a velocity stack with exhaust cutout.

what were u tuned on?

 

Your numbers are impressive. How does that match up to dynojet? The fuel pressure wasn't touched because you have huge injectors for the power you’re putting out. I bet your barely are 50% on your injectors.
Was the air/fuel measured by a wide band before your cat or after the cat?
You may want to edit your parts list to two categories, power adders and extra stuff.
I would have to agree that a matched valve train is a good thing but the all the parts you list are known to be good parts.

Suggested improvements:
Better header Tri-Y, SMSP, Hytech
High flow cat 2.5"
2.5" exhaust
62mm or larger throttle body
Intake was covered
A Stage 2 or Stage 3 type cams with your compression
BC4's, JUN 2's or 3's, Toda B's, Skunk Stage 2's, Skunk Pro 1 or 2's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AntMan401 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didn't have a Port ad Polish done because I did not have the Money at the time. Wish I did it though.

I'm not gonna change the Cams though. I don't really have the extra Money to spend on another set of Cams. Maybe if I sell the BC3's I can use the Money towards BC4's? What Cam would be best to use? Who is Tom and how can I find more info about Him doing a Port and Polish? Going with the Tri-Y Header I see for Sale instead of AN-R.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i hear you on that head work it can get pricey, i would def sell the bc3's... search RM products... M22's will be perfect for your setup

when you have the cash send your head here http://www.portflow.com

 

I was Tuned on Hondata S200.

The Air/fuel was measured AFTER the Cat via the Muffler.

Going with the Tr-Y Header thats on Sale here on Honda-Tech
I actually am running an Omni Power Test Pipe. forgot to mention that.
Isn't the Apexi WS2 Catback 2.5"? I was thinking about selling that and going with the Buddy Club Racing Spec 2 Catback. I'm just afraid its going to be extremely loud.
Gonna go with a 64mm throttle Body
ditched the J's Intake and I'm going with some 3" Piping and a Velocity Stack.
I'll see what I can do about the Cams too. Wish the BC4's were for sale at the time I did the build.

 

The Apexi Worldsport exhaust has a pretty restrictive muffler. I made 205 with that exhaust on my B20V, and just by unbolting the b-pipe, i gained 5hp top end and 15 at VTEC x-over. Also gained about 10lb/ft TQ at VTEC x-over. I also use the Password intake and it seems to do pretty decent. A standard long 3in intake with velocity stack has some good potential to make more power also.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AntMan401 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was Tuned on Hondata S200.

Gonna go with a 64mm throttle Body
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would go bigger with the tb, like 68mm
I would even consider getting a thicker cometic headgasket to lower your cr some considering what other parts you have already

 

I've been thinking about going with the Buddy Club Racing Spec 2 Catback but I'm afraid its going to be too loud. Although, I don't even consider it a Daily Driver anymore. It doesn't have back seats or anything so my Daughter never goes in it. And during the Week I have a Company Van for Work. Weekends I use my Girls Car when we all go out together as a family. That Exhaust would probably flow a lot better too.

You think a bigger TB would be better? Now I'm not going to be changing the Cams or doing a Port and Polish so I don't want TOO much Air to get in. Also, why would I want to lower the Compression? Isn't higher Compression better for a N/A Set-Up like mine? What other parts do I have lead you to think a Thicker Head Gasket to lower my Compression would be better?