I have searched and searched for a few days now. Every post I find ends with the
original thread starter saying he fixed his problem, but never states how he fixed it!

(Brand new JDM H22a with OEM type-s pistons, Skunk2 valve train, honed, blueprinted and all that.)


So.. here is my problem::

I put the key into the ignition and turn it to the number II position. Fuel primes, check engine light comes on, then off, and then back on again(throwing vtec pressure switch, and iat). I crank her over and no spark.

I have checked the ecu, and the same ecu starts my Integra. Main relay came from the Integra, which I stated starts just fine. I have checked for voltage in the black/yellow wire at the distributor and I am getting give-or-take 12v. I have checked the ICM's yel/blk wire and I am getting around 12v, and the blk/yellow as well. IG fuse is good(as well as all others), I even threw in a 10amp fuse just to see if it would blow it, and it has not blown it yet.

Car started and ran fine before I built my motor.

Please help guys!!

-Jason

 

For the ecu to direct spark to cylinders, it must know where there at. If it doesnt see a signal,ill never send the spark.
Id check your cam sensor. They wont always throw codes.The codes you do have shouldnt stop ignition either.
Even though the B+ and ground are good at the ignitor, it might be bad still. Swap it with your teg and see what happens. This is so common with our cars.

 

Where is the cam sensor? Any pictures as well?

Forgot to mention.. 92 Civic CX with recent EX power door/window conversion with two random plugs going no where.. One has two wires and it sits about the top of the under dash fuse panel and the other where the grounds are, bolted on by a 10mm to the car.

-Jason

 

cam sensor is built into the distributor, but all your symptoms sound like a bad ignitor/ICM...I believe the manual has you check power/groun/ and the other wires going to/from the ecu.if theyre good replace the ICM.
Id swap that our first. They go out like crazy while cam sensors are usually pretty reliable...Good luck!

 

Did the car have the h22 in it before the build?

Any changes in wiring since?

To be specific, the sensor he is talking about is the CYP sensor, it indicates when cyl 1 is at TDC and tells the ECU to fire the first spark.

 

Yeah sorry, cam sensor aka CYP aka cylinder position sensor...
Is this the same distributor since before the swap?
Could also be a bad ignition coil.

 

see if you can borrow another distributor to try.

 

I have borrowed another distributor from a friend, and he started his car up fine with it. I did lengthen my wires, but I soldered and heat shrink(with adhesive inside).. but nothing else. And yes, same motor and everything.

-Jason

 

TTT... Please help me out guys!

-Jason

 

One other thing I just thought of.. When I got all my head stuff installed, I did not pay for a valve adjustment due to low funds. Would needing a valve adjustment result in the valves not creating any compression?

-Jason

 

UPDATE!!

I fixed my vtec pressure switch code. I never grounded it because I did not care.. since I knew that was the problem.

After that, I put my p13 in and decided.. "why not check for codes again?" I'm still getting code 10 for IAT.

BUT NOW.. I'm getting code 15. Ignition output signal! How to fix that??? And what wire color is this at the distributor?

-Jason

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jason- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">One other thing I just thought of.. When I got all my head stuff installed, I did not pay for a valve adjustment due to low funds. Would needing a valve adjustment result in the valves not creating any compression?

-Jason</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do NOT run your car without adjusting the valves...... believe me i've seen people put in new cams... not adjust the valves.... drive down the street..... hit VTEC and ..... Dropped valve!!! Get all your codes figured out, Adjust the valves and then start it... don't try to run it before you have all that fixed...

 

I would start it and let it run.. but I wont be reving it or anything major.. Maybe drive it down the street to a Honda mechanic who will hopefully do it for free. I won't be hitting vtec.. not at all.

Any other help on my problem...??

-Jason

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jason- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would start it and let it run.. but I wont be reving it or anything major.. Maybe drive it down the street to a Honda mechanic who will hopefully do it for free. I won't be hitting vtec.. not at all.

Any other help on my problem...??

-Jason</TD></TR></TABLE>

i wouldn't even try to start it without adjusting them. do you know anyone that can come do it for you? or at least check to see if they are super tight... did you install new cams too?

 

Stock cams. Skunk2 high compression valves, dual springs, and retainers.

I have already cranked her over multiple times. And no, no one is able to come over that knows how to adjust them(on a Honda). Plus, I don't trust the ones that can adjust them.

-Jason


Modified by Jason- at 1:40 PM 10/22/2007