Clutch system has been dry for 5 months. New Master cyl(Napa brand) New slave cyl(napa also).

Yesterday I got it to bleed straight fluid but the pedal would Not return. Clutch pedal return spring is on the pedal. I have checked all connections and all are tight.

Here is a pic of the slave cyl on my 92 beater, (pedal up)


Here is the slave cyl on my 94( pedal up) It pisses fluid out the bleeder but I never noticed this until today.

I have to hold to get it to stay like this\/


I took the cyl out and took it apart and I dont see how I could have put it together wrong So am i having a tard moment and put it together wrong or did I get a bad out of box cyl? The slave cyl I had on here before only lasted a year and iirc it was a napa or oriellys brand. Should I suck it up and go with an oem slave?

I dont cheap out on ****(like engine seals, timing belts, I bought all oem for that kind of stuff) But for some dumb reason i did on this.

 

do you mean that the pedal will not return while you are bleeding the clutch? If so that is normal, the pressure from the pressure plate makes the clutch pedal rise, and then the spring on the pedal holds it in the upright position. And being a Napa employee for over 2 years now, I can vouch for their hydraulic parts, they are usually good quality, although there is an exception to every rule.
And are you sure that is a Napa slave? I have one on mine, and it does not look like that one

 

I figured since i got all the air out of the system it should return by itself with the bleeder closed. Not while im bleeding the clutch. It might be an orielly's but i bought it 3 months ago and cant remember. The bleeder screw is massive compared to the slave cyl on my beater I'm braindead at the moment. Thanks for the reply

 

i also got a slave cyl from napa and the bleeder was bigger...(just bolt size)
i swapped over the ld bleer to the new so i can make use of the damn 8mm wrech i bought

and i dont think youre bleeding it the proper way

you can bleed it with just one person

 

get a longer hose for the slave cyl bleeder
put some fluid in a bottle
submerge the hose into the bottle
release bleeder valve
make sure clutch res is full
pump clutch pedal by hand about 4 times..
refill fluid in clutch res.
pump 4 times again
repeat
leave clutch pedal down
tighten bleeder valve
refill clutch res.
pull back clutch pedal

you should be good

 

just put fluid in the Res. with the bleeder valve closed
pump the clutch about 10x
put pedal down
open bleeder valve in short spurts, to let pressure/air out
and repeat

 

I'm not having a problem bleeding it, it's bled. I had the trans off during this build up i've been doing to the car. Maybe the throwout bearing got dislogded or something when I was stabbing the tranny. The shift fork should be compressing the slave cyl but mine isnt. I had my father compress the slave to the size of the cyl in the 1st pic, then I pushed the pedal down and he could feel it fully extend so i know it's bled.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SnlpeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a longer hose for the slave cyl bleeder
put some fluid in a bottle
submerge the hose into the bottle
release bleeder valve
make sure clutch res is full
pump clutch pedal by hand about 4 times..
refill fluid in clutch res.
pump 4 times again
repeat
leave clutch pedal down
tighten bleeder valve
refill clutch res.
pull back clutch pedal

you should be good</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would try bleeding like that. Because if all the air is out of the slave then u should be able to apply enough pressure to move the shift fork. And you are saying it does not correct ? Are their any leaks anywhere ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SnlpeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
and i dont think youre bleeding it the proper way</TD></TR></TABLE>
There really needs to be a vacuum line going into something like a mason jar with about 2" of fluid already in it. When the bubbles stop coming out, that's basically sucking air back into the hydraulic system.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SnlpeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you can bleed it with just one person</TD></TR></TABLE>
True, up until the pedal starts getting pressure and then someone else needs to be actually pumping the pedal. The bleeding process takes a few hours depending on how you do it, and make sure your resevoir does not run dry. You need to push/pull and when it gets pressure pump the pedal about 20 times in between opening the bleeder valve. I recommend checking the resevoir every three "cycles" of pumping and cracking the line to make sure there is plenty of fluid.

 

Looks more to me like the pressure plate isn't doing it's job...if you can push that thing in with your finger there's no pressure on if from the plate.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks more to me like the pressure plate isn't doing it's job...if you can push that thing in with your finger there's no pressure on if from the plate.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Something is not right that's for sure. Time to pull the trans and see wtf happened. It's an exedy clutch kit, put it in last year. Maybe I overlooked something when I installed it this time

 

throwout bearing