traction bar kits, which tie rod flanges would you want?
i'm going to add some tie rod flanges to offer with the traction bar flanges so it would be a diy kit, customers would only need to source the 2" pipe and the tie rods and links for the lca's. i want to know what everyone would buy for the tie rod flanges... so options are pictured below. thanks for the input!
pictures are not my stuff:
sandwich flanges like this but radiused to match the 2" pipe:

flat flanges like this:

loop flanges:

pictures are not my stuff:
sandwich flanges like this but radiused to match the 2" pipe:

flat flanges like this:

loop flanges:

I would absolutely purchase looped from you if you'd make them. I am TIRED of making the double shear radiused type by hand. PLEASE make those looped ones.
If not though, I'll take the double shear radiused ones I suppose.
If not though, I'll take the double shear radiused ones I suppose.
only problem with that is you dont really know how much of an angle they are gonna be at on each specific setup so one size oval will not work for all. id say makie it round, maybe a little bit loose and let the end user grind down to what they need. if someone is fabbng a traction bar, they should at least have the equipment to do that.
Yeah, ovaling isn't a big deal, just as long as the lengths are right. I think that's what's gonna be difficult about the ovals. You need to be sure they are off the bar far enough to fit BEEF hardware, because that's all I use. 5/8's bolts have a pretty big head on them, so they have to be able to have clearance.
Might be easier to start off with the double shear radiused tabs.
Might be easier to start off with the double shear radiused tabs.
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yeah, but with the radiused flanges you have to have one shorter than the other to help with the angle, and you run into the same problem as the looped ones... every setup is a little different.
thanks... does anyone have a picture of this style? would there be much of a difference between that and the sandwich style at the top? i would imagine very little because it is welded and has no movement. anyone explain?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mastakmk »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks... does anyone have a picture of this style? would there be much of a difference between that and the sandwich style at the top? i would imagine very little because it is welded and has no movement. anyone explain? </TD></TR></TABLE>
with the loop style, you have a much stronger joint as the tie rod flange (loop) is welded all around the 2" pipe, as opposed to only a small part of the joint with the sandwich flange. also, this is added insurance, should your weld be compromised in any way, the loop will prevent the tie rod from becoming seperated from the 2" pipe.
with the loop style, you have a much stronger joint as the tie rod flange (loop) is welded all around the 2" pipe, as opposed to only a small part of the joint with the sandwich flange. also, this is added insurance, should your weld be compromised in any way, the loop will prevent the tie rod from becoming seperated from the 2" pipe.
how much does this "traction bar kit" cost pictured above? can't be crazy. i cant find **** on their site.. cept for how shitty ss auto chrome is LOL.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mastakmk »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much does this "traction bar kit" cost pictured above? can't be crazy. i cant find **** on their site.. cept for how shitty ss auto chrome is LOL.</TD></TR></TABLE>
click my sig, the sig just above your post.
click my sig, the sig just above your post.
there are two different height settings (the reason for the extra two holes in the bottom of the hole pattern on the tow hook flange. ground clearance shouldn't be an issue with this option.
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