Hello-
I know this is a fairly common occurance on our cars, and I've been doing some research on correcting the problem (searching through the countless posts on this problem). It is your typical no start (engine turns over, acts like it is going to start, but never does). And it is not due to a heat spell (Main Relay). However, I have noticed that when I turn the key to the 'On' position the fuel pump DOES NOT run for 2 seconds and I DO NOT hear the Main Relay 'click'. Last night I removed the Main Relay and tested continuity hoping it was the culprit, but unfortunatley it was working fine. This leads me to believe that it could possibly be the fuel pump (car has 255k miles). Tomorrow, I am hoping to test power running to the fuel pump under the rear seat, before I spend the money on a new fuel pump. But if the fuel pump went bad, shouldn't the Main Relay still click like it is supposed to?

Now, I was curious if anyone had any ideas on any other minor things I might have overlooked? I have not "actually" tested for spark, but the rotor, dizzy, wires, and plugs are in decent shape. I've looked over most of my fuses and none appear to be blown. The main reason I'm focused in on the Main Relay/Fuel Pump problem is because I do not hear the usual humming of the fuel pump and the click of the main relay prior to start up. Could there be some minor switch I've missed checking? Or something in the ignition switch that is not sending power to the main relay? And this is on a virgin Civic (no mods of any kind). Any help, ideas, or suggestions would be appreciated.


(I know people tend to over-post these commons problems, without first diagnosing certain things themselves. I've checked some of the things believed to be the problem, but I'm not going to be able to work on it for a few days. And it will help to have some other people's opinions on what it could possibly be, so that when I go to work on it, I will have ideas of what to check.)

Thanks in advance!


Modified by JimmyM86 at 9:15 PM 10/18/2007

 

The main relay will still click on and off if you have a faulty fuel pump. My buddy's car was doing this same thing but we knew his pump was good. It turned out his fuel pump wasn't grounded. But his car has been molested severafl times. You can test the pump by connecting it directly to the battery. Take a long wire and run it from the yellow/black wire at the fuel pump harness to the positive battery terminal and also ground the black wires at the pump harness. If it hums then its good of course

 

Thanks for the idea...I will be sure to check it tomorrow.

My friend was telling me tonight that his 93 prelude had the same problem mine was having. His Main Relay was testing ok and his Fuel Pump was ok, but the fuel pump was still not humming and the Main Relay did not click when the ignition was turned 'On'. He said his friend came over and took alook, and ended up grounding something on the Main Relay and it fixed his problem. Has anyone ever heard of this or have any idea how to do it? My friend was unsure b/c he wasn't the one doing it.

TIA!

 

You should be able to hear the relay click, when you first turn the key to the On position.

That said, if you are at 255,000 miles, then you are probably due for a fuel pump and I expect that is what you will find to be the problem.

 

I Had a problem starting her up too, and i found it was a grounding issue. There are four wires that run to the engine bay right by the thermostat housing that MUST be grounded. These 4 wires are tied directly into the main relay/ecu.

Instead of running the wire to the battery to test the fuel pump. you can use a jumper wire and connect the black/yellow wire to the black wire on the plug for the main relay. saves you the trouble of finding a long *** wire.

Aside from that, i'm not too sure.

I have an old 90 crx where the fuel pump is a little flaky and sometimes it doesn't kick in either. What I usually do is I hold the main relay in my left hand, and just turn the key to ON. If i feel/hear the main relay click and hear the pump go, then i know i can start the car. But then again u said you didn't hear the pump, so i suspect it might be the pump.. try readjusting the 3/4 wires that run to the pump underneath your rear seats.

 

Ok...Here is an update from today's work:

1) The fuel pump still works (I ran power back from the main relay connector and it kicks on). I tested the grounds and they are ok.

2) I've jumped 1,3, and 7 (on the main relay connector) and the car still doesn't want to start (once it is jumped, I can hear the fuel pump kick on as well as the injectors pumping).

3) When I jumped the wires w/ the main relay attached it would click and click, but the car still would not start.

4) I've verified that I AM getting spark (with the main relay jumped and fuel pump/injectors pumping). - It seems soooo close to starting but it just does not.

5) I double and triple checked all my fuses and all are good.

6) I've noticed when I turn the key 'On', no lights (including the check engine) come on the dash (with just the main relay hooked up).

So...it has to be either the main relay, ecu, or ignition.

*Main Relay - I'ved tested it for continuity and they all pass. I know just b/c they pass the continuity test doesn't mean it is going to work in my car. Even by jumping the main relay, I still can't get it to start.

*ECU - Fuse is good...When the key is turned to 'Start' I can see the light (on the ecu) flash. But when I jump the blue connector to look for trouble codes I don't get anything. And the check engine light does not come on when the key is turned to 'On'.

*Ignition - haven't played around with awhole lot, but it doesn't "seem" to be this.

Now two things that have me puzzled:

#1 - I went through the fuse box in the engine compartment checking for power. All of the wires were pulling power in the 'On' position except these three circled in the picture below:

***I had the ECU Fuse removed to test for continuity, incase anyone notices.
Are these supposed to to drawing power?

#2 - I tested where the ECU fuse sits for continuity (with the Ignition Switch 'On' and I was NOT getting continuity there (which might be part of the problem).

I'm hoping someone might notice something I overmissed. I think at this point I can tell it is nothing major, but more likely something small and stupid I've overlooked. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks-
Jimmy

 

Any ideas?

Does anyone happen to know if the two wires coming from the connector in the picture above should have continuous power or how much they should be pulling in the 'On' position?

The two in question are Black/Yellow and Green/Red...I tested again and they have no power in the 'Off' position, but in the 'On' position they are pulling very very little power (.08) compared to the others (12+) in the fuse box.

I've seen the Black/Yellow wire show up in the Ignition Switch as well as the Main Relay. So depending on how much juice they should be pulling, it may be part of the problem...The ECU still doesn't seem to be getting any power....

Some one here has to have experienced this before!

Thanks guys...

 

Resolder (repair) the main relay and I bet you fix your problem. Sounds just like an intermitten bad relay problem, FIX THAT first. Fuel pumps RARELY go out on EF hondas, I still have yet to see one go bad myself.

Your over thinking your problem

 

Thanks...I will give that a shot. I was just trying to make sure it wasn't anything minor before I spend money on new parts or try and repair the ones I have.

Luckily, I've tested the fuel pump, and it is still working (after 255K miles). So I figured it had to be some wiring or switch problem...

If anyone else thinks of anything else it might be please give me your $.02

Thanks again

 

this will probably be of no help to you since you said you already checked the entire fuse box. But this sounds like an identical problem my buddy had in his hatch about a month ago. he too went through his fuse box, replaced the FP and Main Relay. Neither needed to be changed. He had actually over looked a blown fuse. Which fuse will (oddly enough) cause your problem you ask. The altenator solinoid fuse... like a 7.5 or 10amp fuse. You might get as lucky as my friend and simply over looked this fuse.

If not, sorry for wasting the time it took to read this and check that, and good luck!

 

I think I might have found my problem, but it would be nice if someone could verify...

I was reading alittle about the Ignition Switch....When I turn the key to the 'On' position no lights come up on the dash, nor do I hear the fuel pump or main relay click. Now many people (at this poitn) said its probably the main relay... But if I move the key inbetween the 'On' and 'Start' position, the dash lights come up and the fuel pump primes and the main relay clicks. From what I read this could be due to a faulty ignition switch CORRECT? I don't know how I missed reading that part before, but from what it sounds like I could just be looking at an ignition switch?

Could someone please verify I'm thinking clearly?

Thanks guys!

 

its a bad engine ground.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimmyM86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think I might have found my problem, but it would be nice if someone could verify...

I was reading alittle about the Ignition Switch....When I turn the key to the 'On' position no lights come up on the dash, nor do I hear the fuel pump or main relay click. Now many people (at this poitn) said its probably the main relay... But if I move the key inbetween the 'On' and 'Start' position, the dash lights come up and the fuel pump primes and the main relay clicks. From what I read this could be due to a faulty ignition switch CORRECT? I don't know how I missed reading that part before, but from what it sounds like I could just be looking at an ignition switch?

Could someone please verify I'm thinking clearly?

Thanks guys! </TD></TR></TABLE>

if the entire car is acting as if it is still off when it is "on" unless you wiggle the key back and forth between positions then it would seem like thats an obvious area of problem. Some type of loose connection, be it a power or ground. dig around in there at your main ignition wires and trace them back to ensure good connections and continuity at both ends.

 

The Ignition Switch was the issue. Having my fuel pump come on, main relay click, and ecu work with the key inbetween the 'On' and "Start' position was a dead giveaway.

I hope this can help someone in the future...Thanks again to all!

Thead can be locked now!

 

i also have the same problem but when i turn the key the relay "clicks" but you dont here that sound that the car makes when you want to start it. also the check engine light stay on now i replaced the main relay twice but still the same so if any of you guys got any clues i would really appriciate the help

 

JohnDX,

Jimmy nailed it.

Just happened to me today. Lately the car has been having a hard time starting. Stalls right away...eventually worked then I could drive.

On the way from work today it started cutting out and I "broke down". My 1st thought was the main relay and I tried one from my other car. No go.

I discovered it was the ignition switch when I realized that the car would stay running with the key held turned forward. I had to drive home holding the key slightly past the 2nd position..not easy when it comes time to shift.

I took off my ignition switch and discovered the solder on the back of one of the connections all melted away. The contacts on the inside were in rough shape too.

Check out the link below. Its not our gen but is excellent help if you needs pictures to put things into perspective.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq....html


peace