I just blew my headgasket and im trying to figure out how before i replace it.Its a d16a6 with a shaved .03 head and 76mm bored with d16z6 internals,Arp headstuds and a honda headgasket.
The only thing i can think of it i used the haynes torque specs

24 first time then 49.

So my question is are arp torque specs differerent than standard specs,if so what is the torque spec's for d series arps on a d16a6 block.


Modified by important at 5:23 AM 10/15/2007


Modified by important at 5:26 AM 10/15/2007


Modified by important at 5:34 AM 10/15/2007

 

Ok i changed my headgasket,torqued everything to spec,an hour later it blew again,pulled the head and its on the intake side once again but this time cylinder number 2,instead of 3.
Any idea of why i keep blowing headgaskets??

 

warped head/ block. who did the work previous to this? my bet is with a warped head.

 

Take it to machine shop to resurfaced it. Take off .001 mm off

 

its all good i just got it checked,when i got to remove the headgasket the bolts arent exactly loose,as if they are loosing in while its in the car

 

not sure if they are the same for all d series but the torque spec for a z6 with arp head studs is 60 ft/lbs. Sounds like you have a warped head or even check your block, the surface may need decked.

 

60 foot pound in 1/4 turns.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by important &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok i changed my headgasket,torqued everything to spec,an hour later it blew again,pulled the head and its on the intake side once again but this time cylinder number 2,instead of 3.
Any idea of why i keep blowing headgaskets??</TD></TR></TABLE>

What did your torque the headstuds to?

 

There should be a little yellow card in the box that tells you what to torque them to. It changes if you use ARP's thread lube or not.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowcivic2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There should be a little yellow card in the box that tells you what to torque them to. It changes if you use ARP's thread lube or not.</TD></TR></TABLE>i think its as high as 80ft lbs with just regualr motor oil, and 60 with the supplied moly.

mine are at 75 ft lbs with the moly

 

hope you do it in the right sequence for tightening, i did it wrong and my **** leaked

 

sequence is right,as for the head its going back to the shop in the morning,but the block is in the car so i can get it checked.Ive heard mixed numbers on the torque specs from 60-80,i dont know what to torque them too now.

 

Like I said above, it depends on if you use their lubricant or not, the torque will vary.

 

i have no molly lube.So i am using standard 10w30 as a lube

one more thing,im running 9 pounds tuned on chrome.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by important &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have no molly lube.So i am using standard 10w30 as a lube

one more thing,im running 9 pounds tuned on chrome.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you only torqued it to 49 ft/lbs with 10w30, thats why you blew your headgasket again...

 

you should get some moly, supposed to give you more accurate/ consistent torque specs

 

yes that was time#1
time number 2 i torqued to 58 with 10w30
time number 3 i torqued to 62,checked backafter 20 minutes and retorqued them to 63 with 10w30 and it held up for a while,then one run full throttle and it gave out.It drove all day fine about 200 miles,then when i got on it(9 pounds) it gave out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by important &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes that was time#1
time number 2 i torqued to 58 with 10w30
time number 3 i torqued to 62,checked backafter 20 minutes and retorqued them to 63 with 10w30 and it held up for a while,then one run full throttle and it gave out.It drove all day fine about 200 miles,then when i got on it(9 pounds) it gave out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The main reason why I don't like lubricant on bolts unless it is specifically required, everything is dry torqued.

 

I always use standard oil to torque studs/bolts,the slightest grudge on a thread will throw my wrench off reading.All im looking for is a accurate torque spec.

 

Thats why you clean threads. Oil lubricates the thread, and eases its tightening, which will throw the actual torque way off unless it is specified. 60ft/lbs dry and 60ft/lbs wet will yield two different torques. Hydrolocking is another danger of using thread lubricants.

 

well i read around and it says 62ftlb with molly lube and 75 with standard oil,thats why this thread is still going,im trying to find out before i strip a bolt,not or worse my block.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by important &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i read around and it says 62ftlb with molly lube and 75 with standard oil,thats why this thread is still going,im trying to find out before i strip a bolt,not or worse my block.</TD></TR></TABLE> you think??

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NastyHabitzCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think its as high as 80ft lbs with just regualr motor oil, and 60 with the supplied moly.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Im not going to strip out a block i just paid 550.00 for over some ''i think''.

By the way the head is back at the machine shop getting resurfaced and pressure tested.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by important &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im not going to strip out a block i just paid 550.00 for over some ''i think''.

By the way the head is back at the machine shop getting resurfaced and pressure tested.</TD></TR></TABLE>mmkay, next time contact the manufacturer them i posted what i torqued mine to as a reference so you could have peace of mind about doing it at 60 ft lbs