Cv Axle question on a CRX "B16a"
Hey hows it going, well I recently encountered a big torn on the boot of the passenger side cv axle throwing grease over everything under the wheel well.
So I was thinking to myself, huh, New motor (b16a), new transaxle(b16/S1/y1?). Not crx stuff... haha.
Well I heard from a friend that I can refer my axles to a 90-93 Integra Non-ABS CV HalfShaf(Axle).
Is that true? Let me know whats up.
So I was thinking to myself, huh, New motor (b16a), new transaxle(b16/S1/y1?). Not crx stuff... haha.
Well I heard from a friend that I can refer my axles to a 90-93 Integra Non-ABS CV HalfShaf(Axle).
Is that true? Let me know whats up.
That does comply somewhat of what I have read/heard. The swap guide on here states to use 90-91 non abs axles. I do have to somewhat agree with that as I have abs axles on my car (crx si with b16 also) and the car drives/turns perfectly fine.
Check this out though.
At the bottom of the first post you see an "interchangeable" parts list. First one, traditionally, is the axles.
Honda-Tech CRX B16a Swap Guide
Check this out though.
At the bottom of the first post you see an "interchangeable" parts list. First one, traditionally, is the axles.
Honda-Tech CRX B16a Swap Guide
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stmizner »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or just replace the boot?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm sorry but that's just ghetto.
Replace both shafts with brand new 90-93 teg non abs shafts, remember to use 90-93 teg half shaft (female half shaft, 94+ are male half shaft).
I ran 94+ driver side driveshaft with 94+ teg half shaft before. No issues.
I'm sorry but that's just ghetto.
Replace both shafts with brand new 90-93 teg non abs shafts, remember to use 90-93 teg half shaft (female half shaft, 94+ are male half shaft).
I ran 94+ driver side driveshaft with 94+ teg half shaft before. No issues.
yea i have to agree. saying replacing a CV boot is ghetto is probably the most ignorant thing ive ever heard.
the reason CV shafts go bad and start clickin is usually because the boot got ripped and dirt got inside and destroyed the bearings.
so if you replace the boot and clean out the bearings and put new grease in , then there will be no problem
the reason CV shafts go bad and start clickin is usually because the boot got ripped and dirt got inside and destroyed the bearings.
so if you replace the boot and clean out the bearings and put new grease in , then there will be no problem
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prettylew »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh yea and im pretty sure 90-93 integras are MALE halfshafts NOT female.</TD></TR></TABLE>
nope. not true.
passenger side axle is male-male. one end into the tranny.. true on all integras
drivers side on DA male-male
drivers side on DC female-male
this means that the DA halfshaft has to be male on the tranny side and female on the axle side.
DC halfshaft is male on tranny side and male on the axle side.

^^ DA axles and halfshaft
nope. not true.
passenger side axle is male-male. one end into the tranny.. true on all integras
drivers side on DA male-male
drivers side on DC female-male
this means that the DA halfshaft has to be male on the tranny side and female on the axle side.
DC halfshaft is male on tranny side and male on the axle side.

^^ DA axles and halfshaft
It only takes about 2-3 days of regular driving to spin most of the grease out of the shaft. From that point on, you are doing severe metal on metal damage.
I've rebuilt driveshafts only to have them blow up a few weeks later at the track, and no, they weren't clicking, but the bearing was worn.
It's ghetto, cause you will pay 40$ for a new boot kit, get real greasy doing it, that grease is hard to wash off and on top of that, you may not know if the joint is in good shape or not. I usually just spend the 90$ and get lifetime warranty replacement axles from Partsource. Then when I blow them up, they are free, for life.
If it's ignorant to say that rebuilding a shaft is ghetto, then I'm the ignorant guy with 2 new axles instead or 2 rebuilt one. Oh, and the brand I get replaces the joint and the boots, they use the shaft itself as a core.
I've rebuilt driveshafts only to have them blow up a few weeks later at the track, and no, they weren't clicking, but the bearing was worn.
It's ghetto, cause you will pay 40$ for a new boot kit, get real greasy doing it, that grease is hard to wash off and on top of that, you may not know if the joint is in good shape or not. I usually just spend the 90$ and get lifetime warranty replacement axles from Partsource. Then when I blow them up, they are free, for life.
If it's ignorant to say that rebuilding a shaft is ghetto, then I'm the ignorant guy with 2 new axles instead or 2 rebuilt one. Oh, and the brand I get replaces the joint and the boots, they use the shaft itself as a core.
it doesn't matter which axles you use from a DA integra actually. if it has abs, just remove that ring around the axle and you should be fine. also, it is better if you use a DA halfshaft. if you use one from a 94 and up, then you would need to use 86-89 integra axles. it works fine but the thing is, when you make left turns (or i think right. can't remember), your car will vibrate alot. not really a good feeling.
Well I just really want to replace the whole axle just to be certain.
When i replaced my cv halfshaft on driver side, it was from a 1991 Acura Integra non-abs and it fit fine. So would I need to use a 1991 Acura Integra Passenger side cv halfshaft?
When i replaced my cv halfshaft on driver side, it was from a 1991 Acura Integra non-abs and it fit fine. So would I need to use a 1991 Acura Integra Passenger side cv halfshaft?
Hey, I was also wondering, been awhile since I installed the last axle. Theres a O ring wrapped around the end of the spline that enters the transaxle.
I was wondering if I remove this ring or keep it on there?
I was wondering if I remove this ring or keep it on there?
To respond to if you need to use 91 drivers axles same goes to other side. You need 90-93 DA axles non abs. Respond to next post about the o ring, if it was there, it was meant to be there. Don't do shortcuts will end up doing that again to fix it.
Well the thing is, it looks like it should go there, but usually if it were suppose to, it would be totally clamped onto it.
This one is dangling and circling around it. It also looks like it may be in the way for the splines to go through
This one is dangling and circling around it. It also looks like it may be in the way for the splines to go through
thats the c clip aka cir clip, that puts retaining tension on the axle so it does not pull out of the trans with suspension travel or turning. i have actually seen this happen at least 2 times. not to common as most people know the clip is needed but, luckily the cars just needed new axles and the diff was ok. you can actualy cause alot damage to the diff/ axle splines if the inner shaft starts pulling out while rotational force is being applied, aka driving. the inner cv joint is what controls/ limits the plunging action of the axle. if your shaft does not have one or it gets expanded you should be able to get one at any compitent auto parts store.
Hmm, so should I use needle nose and kinda clamp it on there a bit more? or is it suppose to dangle around like that and once you get it inside the transaxle it unclamps itself against some sort of indention inside the diff?
it should be loose enough to spin with your fingers and have a little play in it's groove. if you can pull it off the axle without having to expand it, it's too loose. usually if you take it off the axle, compress it, closing the two ends closer together, when you put it on the axle it expands just enough so you dont have to compress it more or loosen it. hope this helps somewhat.
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