okay well i have a boosted teg with a jdm itr tranny w/ lsd and final drive. i had a clutch problem about two months back. the clutch was worn to the point where it no longer made contact with the flywheel. it popped out of gear one day and that was it for the clutch. before this and all along though, the clutch/ tranny would chatter alot. i mean alot. i thought it might have been a characteristic of the solid hub disc i was using, and thought it was worsened by the fact that the clutch was on its way out. when i pushed the clutch in, the chatter would go away. i had read that that characteristic was of a bad mainshaft bearing though. so i swapped the clutch, and everything was back to normal. only the chatter was still there. now, two months later, normal driving in third, the car slips out of gear. but it wont drive when i put it back in. it goes into every gear perfectly, whether the clutch pedal is in or out. my question is could a completely shot input shaft bearing cause this condition? i mean, the car does not move as if the clutch and flywheel are completely separated. i can rev it up, let the clutch out, and it does nothing at all. and since we never took care of it, the chatter has been there for about 6 months! i did the clutch with a buddy of mine, but this time its at a shop and i dont want get ripped. thanks in advance!

 

????

 

sounds like your 3rd gear synchro rings are worn bad enough,the hub wont engage 3rd gear all the way. The synchronizing teeth on the gear itself are worn so theres no side surface to transmit the torque, instead it kinda pushes itself away cause its angled...
Im tired and its hard to explain. Basicly you probably need a whole 3rd gearset including the drive and driven.
Also may want to replace any others that look bad. If it was a bent shift fork, youd probably have trouble going to 5th and 1st too. Clean your magnets when your in there and measure everything the book tells you too.
My 2nd gear was doing this so I redid my ITR trans a few years ago and it was almost $800 in parts alone, so get ready to possibly spend some money
In any case, it has to be opened to be inspected and repaired. Good luck

 

all i can say is, shiiit. i dont know much about the inside of the tranny. i really was thinking too simply about the possible problem. its just out of my league. the car is at a tranny shop right now, so its out of my hands. i just wanted to get some ideas before i throw $$ at someone. but thanks for the response. i guess ill just have to wait and see. 1 question tho. wouldnt a syncro problem be more progressive than just a sudden slip and disengagement? i mean, aside from the "chatter" that i described, there has been absolutely no problems with shifting. only thing was that before my new clutch was put in, the tranny wouldnt downshift from 5th to 4th. id have to go from 5th to 3rd, then to 4th. it just wouldnt go. but after the new clutch went in, actually it just recently started to go very smoothly from 5th to 4th. but other than that, it never grinded, or nothing.

 

I forget all of the correct terms, but there are small teeth on the gears themselves that the synchro sleeve meshes into.(same shape as your synchro ring teeth).

When the (brass)synchro ring teeth get worn,you get grinding as you go into gear.
When the actual gears synchronizing teeth get worn, it makes it easier for the synchro "hub" to push off the selected gear and disengage.

The brass synchro rings usually get progressively worse( grinding worse and worse as you try to engage a certain gear)
With the actual gear synchro teeth, you might notice it pop out of gear once and then be fine for a while.It will progressively get worse also, but it seems its not as consistent.

Unsprung hubs are usually known for their chattering. Although ive never personally owned one, ive driven some and this is just a normal characteristic of the clutch. I believe the chatter is actually the engine pulses felt through the pedal that are normally dampened with "sprung hubs"...
Good luck! And have the shop show you exactly what you need.Seeing it in person will give you a better idea of whats going on

 

when the brass groves on the inside of the synchro get worn down you have grinding...

i wouldnt listen to this guy, let the shop figure it out

 

Im just telling you my experience with my transmission. After opening it up and figuring things out fo myself, this is what I came up with. I only rebuilt mine and put an LS 5th gear in there about 3 years ago and its still shifting like butter.
I also noticed some differences in the "friction dampeners" also. Maybe a jdm thing? I dont know...
Im not claiming to know everything, but this is what I think is going on inside your tranny...
Theres a guy named Bense who is very knowledgable about transmissions. Maybe he can shed some light on a few things.
If I misinformed you it was unintentional

 

okay well i got the call today and the guy is trying to take me as usual, but as for the cause, the clutch is toast. i said there was a sudden slip out of the gear and then there was nothing, like no friction between the clutch and flywheel. there wasnt. im going to see it tomorrow, but he said the clutch was a mess. he said the clutch was down to the rivets and what not. how can this be when this clutch had less than 2000 miles on it???? i completely counted that out when this happened because of this fact, but other than the clutch, he said one of the mainshaft bearings on the bottom was shot, which i already knew because of the very loud chatter. but nothing they could see was wrong with any gear changing mechanism or synchros. im so f'ing confused about all this. my boy got into an accident with my old gsr (which he totalled) that had my current setup in it, tranny and all. from the accident, he slightly cracked the bell housing, so the guy who has it now said it would be like $390 for a new one. and he said i need a whole new clutch and pressure plate, but they can resurface the flywheel. fine, but why would i need a new pressure plate if it is brand f'ing new?? why cant i just get a new disc? but also, what the hell would cause this?? he also said there were 3 bolts missing from the housing. could all of this have happened bc my friend who bolted on the flywheel and clutch didnt use a torque wrench to spec?? i told him to, but he did it, and then told me that he just used an impact gun! im just trying to figure out how this all happened so quickly, so i dont go through this again

 

loose pressure plate bolts will cause a "slipping" clutch. They are only torqued to something small like around 18 ft/lbs i think..
Its hard to diagnose your problem w/o seeing it, so you might just want to take their word for it and hope their right or get a second opinion. Hopefully since they are a dedictd tranny shop, they know what theyre doing...

 

yeah i just want to know how this happened after 1700 miles?? and why i would need a new pressure plate already. it just doesnt make sense. going now to see what they think...

 

well i saw the **** today. the tranny is perfect, aside from a bad lower bearing on the mainshaft that wasnt even that bad. the clutch on the other hand was a mess. the spline on the solid hub disc, was off the disc! the rivets literally popped out of the spline and the spline was removed from the disc itself. this clutch was a stage 4 competition clutch with regular pressure plate and 6 puck unsprung disc. i honestly believe that the solid hub is the culprit. these guys want me to get a whole new clutch w/ pressure plate, but i feel like i can reuse the pp, considering its brand new, and i honestly dont believe that that is the issue here. i just dont want to do this again. but thanks for all your input guys.