I have a 2004 accord ex 4dr. the Front brakes are clicking when applied lightly, and sound like metal on metal when braking hard. Pads are brand new and I noticed that the caliper on the passenger side where this happens gets extremely hot.

Diagnosis?
Solutions?

 

a regular brake change consist of greaseing because all pads will vibrate when you brake. inproper greasing of specific locations will cause metal to hit agains metal causing clicking. could be you.

normally when i do brake change i grease caliper's arm, caliper's piston, top and bottom of each pad's tip along with the shims where the tip of each pads goes in. i grease all bolts before putting back. I use regular car grease. no need for high temp. could help but i never find a problem using regular grease. good luck.

 

Next cold start, go out for a drive around the block, do not use the brake pedal, use the hand brake, get out and touch the front rotors, if the one is hot or warmer than the other then you need to rebuild or buy two rebuilt loaded calipers, I am not sure I trust the pads that you bought also, how good (expensive) are they.

 

The pads are what the honda dealership put on, OEM pads. is it possible they screwed something up?

 

Even the dealer has different levels of quality pads.

 

Well I had a mechanic listen to it and diagnosis is the caliper is hanging up (IE piston not relieving completely from full pressure). Since he is a friend he is rebuilding the caliper and putting Hawk HPS pads on the front brakes.

This ok?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accord0411 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I had a mechanic listen to it and diagnosis is the caliper is hanging up (IE piston not relieving completely from full pressure). Since he is a friend he is rebuilding the caliper and putting Hawk HPS pads on the front brakes.

This ok?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, sounds pretty much like a stuck caliper. rebuild the caliper, new pads, and resurface the rotors or replace them and you should be good. and while your at it flush the brake fluid. the fluid in that particular line probably boiled from the excessive ehat and is garbage now.

 

Go ahead and replace the rubber hoses while you are at it, dont play with your brakes, its cheap insurance too.

 

wouldn't abs fail self test with a stuck caliper?

 

No effect if the wheel is not completely locked up or slows down too fast on a slippery road surface while the other wheels are going somewhat faster, they all need to be about the same speed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wouldn't abs fail self test with a stuck caliper?</TD></TR></TABLE>The ABS self-test seems to work even when the car isn't moving. So I don't know how it would 'know' the caliper is stuck. I bet it's some kind of internal software check along with simple continuity checks of the wheel sensors.